How to remove a stuck ignition barrel VN-VS

[undar8ed1]

If you go to start your car one day and the key does not turn try wriggling it if that does not work then try CRC - WD 40ing it or use( graphite grease )and try to turn it again. If this works you must renew the barrel now so don`t turn it to the off postion, grab a small wire or paper clip and then take off the plastic shroud around the ignition, now find a small hole on the side of the ignition barrel housing facing you and insert it in there and push now with the other hand try pulling out the key (while still in the ON position ) and the barrel will/should come out of the housing (attached to the key). Take the old barrel to holden and get them to fit new slides and fiddly bits to it this should cost U about $40.

Now if the CRC trick did not work your barrel is thrashed and needs to replaced heres a guide to help you get it out.

YOU will need
1. Roll of alfoil
2. A 100mm angle grinder with a cutting blade
3. full plastic face safty visor (not essential)
4. A new barrel housing part No GM 92046124 cost $100
A new barrel (blank) part No GM92048530 cost $60
Sundry ignition slides springs and fiddly bits part No GM 90052550 cost $8.00
5. A new Sheer bolt ,THEY SHOULD GIVE YOU IT FOR FREE OR AT WORST A $1.00.
Also holden will charge you $30 if they put together the blank barrel to suit your key, but I did it my self and found it fustrating but fun.

Right familurise yourself with the ignition It`s made up of 2 outer pieces the Upper strap that goes over the steering coloum and the Lower barrel housing that goes under the coloum that also houses the barrel (hence the name) they are connected by a bolt called a sheer bolt it`s called that because the top gripable part of the bolt is sheered off when tightened at the factory leaving no gripable surface to undo it (aids security).

Right`o, line the whole drivers side with alfoil (including the seat) and grab the angle grinder. Now U want to cut through the sheer bolt near the highest part of the lower housing where its attached by the bolt to the upper strap, you want to just shave the lowest part of the upper strap when you cut through it so you can use it again. You will notice that the upper strap indent`s into the lower housing like a bowl and the sheer bolt sits in this bowl so just imagine were the Angle grinder blades are going to slice when you go through. Ok mark it and cut, it should take about 5mins of hard cutting.
Once off the new housing will fit perfectly ( note the steering lock button on the housing and the hole it fits into under the coloum )
but if you can help it don`t ruin the upper strap otherwise you will need to buy another one Part No GM 92046132 cost $13 and will be a pain to fit even when using a G- clamp to hold them together while you try to attach the new sheer bolt.
because your old one has been slightly stretched to fit the coloum and is an easy glove like fit.
Get holden to help you about the best tool and method to use that tool to fit the sheer bolt as the tops are fragile and could snap half way through attaching it.

P.S I used a normal bolt with a phillips head screw driver head on it and was easy to put on, so if it happens to me or the next owner of this car again I/they don`t need to use the angle grinder to get it (the barrel) off just simply undo it. though it makes the car easier to steal though people dont need take this off to hot wire the car they only need to get this off to disable the sterring lock so they can drive it with no key and be able to steer. I personaly just rely on the deadlock function on the door ( dukes of hazard anyone ) and the Imobiliser. Plus I live In a small W.A town and keep it in a locked shed.

P.P.S I have pics ( Including exactly where to cut ) just send me a private message and I will put up associated pics for this thread for 24 -48 hrs max. as I need the space for other pics on other threads.

GOOD luck fellow commo-nuts.

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

Two other methods for removing the sheer bolt.

1: Centre punch the head, and drill the head out with a 5mm drill bit, then an 8mm just enough to take the head off, the strap will come away from the column, then just unscrew the remainder of the bolt.

2: Using a G clamp, clamp the strap tighter so that you are taking the pressure off the sheer bolt, then using a small sharp chisel, or a punch, hit the head of the bolt in an anti clockwise direction. It should come undone.

I have had better success with drilling the head out, I have tried the G clamp method, but the bolt was too tight to move.

[undar8ed1]

Two other methods for removing the sheer bolt.

1: Centre punch the head, and drill the head out with a 5mm drill bit, then an 8mm just enough to take the head off, the strap will come away from the column, then just unscrew the remainder of the bolt.

2: Using a G clamp, clamp the strap tighter so that you are taking the pressure off the sheer bolt, then using a small sharp chisel, or a punch, hit the head of the bolt in an anti clockwise direction. It should come undone.

I have had better success with drilling the head out, I have tried the G clamp method, but the bolt was too tight to move.

Yer I`ve heard of both of those the G-clamp/hole punch one is even here in the how to`s, but both of those did not work for me and were harder than my method to preform and complete, this just add`s another option and as I said to me it`s the easiest. I`d only try and drill it out if I can`t get hold of a Angle Grinder, though they only start from $30 at most hardware stores.
so unless your in the middle of nowhere( with an internet connection..lol )
You can easierly buy one.

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

But drilling the head off the bolt negates the need to purchase a new clamp setup if you destroy it in the process.

[Boonz]

everytime ive done or seen one be done, a chisel, small hammer and a small centre punch

[undar8ed1]

But drilling the head off the bolt negates the need to purchase a new clamp setup if you destroy it in the process.

You would still have to buy a lower barrel housing which is the most expensive part anyway.

[undar8ed1]

everytime ive done or seen one be done, a chisel, small hammer and a small centre punch

As I say it`s the person`s perogative.

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

It's a good "How To" anyway. Well written.

[Boonz]

As I say it`s the person`s perogative.

lol yeh i know was just sayin that ive never seen it done any other way. so thats something for me to try at work next time one comes in with a stuck ignition and it is very detailed

[undar8ed1]

lol yeh i know was just sayin that ive never seen it done any other way. so thats something for me to try at work next time one comes in with a stuck ignition and it is very detailed

Lol cool,but if your going to do it a lot (been a workshop) better get shares in multix cause your going to use alot of alfoil...LOL

[brett Linney]

My car is stuck up at the shops and its ****ing down!! I have to get my ignition un jammed so i can use the car to go get any parts??????? help

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

Once it's jammed it's pretty much stuffed, you have to remove it using one of the above methods. Or call your local RAC.

[Bilbs]

yeah, i always just used the center punch/chisel to get them out at work, i dont even bother with a G-Clamp on it, once the chisel grips in, well they can turn siezed bolts that will round with a single hex socket, so it shouldnt be too much trouble to undo a sheer bolt, and we do the same, just a normal bolt in the new one, same with BA ECU's, they have sheer bolts holding them in, we just use a hacksaw blade to cut a slot in them, and then use a flat head, and once again, just a normal bolt back in. And yeah, those ign barrel slides are a paint in the ass lol, i cant imagine having to do it by trial and error but

[speedyvn]

this is a good tut

My VN ignition key was ok at first but when I wanted to get it cut the bloke tried to and spat the dummy because it wouldn't stay in he's machine and the key was ****ed. So I had to spend $25 bucks on holden just to get infomation off there computer that showed me the car's tyre size, the trans number, the engine number, the diff number, the key number and a couple other things that I can't remember where listed.. and I only wanted the damn key number.. The ****en skams.. $25 bucks for some computer nerd to look up some car details and print them in 2 seconds .

Anyway once I got the key cut with that number and lucky for me the door locks where still the same . even my engine and trans and diff number where the same lol.. although the trans was on it's way out and I later learned that the engine was rough because it had droped an intake valve.

But when I went to put the newly cut key it wouldn't turn.. but after wriggling it for abit it did eventially work.

Pitty I've sold the car now but this tut would have been handy back then.

But still great tut

[marvinstokes]

I followed the instructions but could not turn the key to the 2nd position. Before getting the angle grinder i thought "What the hell!...the locks buggerred anyway!" I removed the metal key part from my plastic remote and pushed it into the ignition. I then gripped the key with some multi-grips and turned it to the 2nd position. I could hear some crunching of breaking metal but i perservered. Low and behold! - I pushed a paperclip* into the release hole at the top of the housing and pulled on the key with the multi-grips. The barrel slid out as easy as anything! I whacked in the new barrel I had got for $75 and everything is sweet!!

* Actually the paper clip that I used was the wire part of a "Fold back clip" from "Office works". The paperclips that I had were too weak.

Good Luck!

[hotel_kilo]

+1 on the cold chisel method! I had to drop the steering column on the VP though!

The shear bolt is M8x16mm (1.25mm pitch). Cap head (allen key) screws are readily available & fit in the well in the strap. If you were mad keen you could fill the hex hole with epoxy!

Today I was quoted...
... about $160 for a new genuine barrel housing (apparently to suit VN-VR, VS is a different part) without switch or barrel from a well-known trade parts supply house.
... $160 for a complete aftermarket assembly with barrel, 2 keys, housing shear bolt & switch (at a nationwide auto retail outlet).
... $62 for an aftermarket barrel with 2 keys (again at a nationwide auto retail outlet).


Thanks all, for an excellent tutorial. The VP rides again!

david

[rickychoeun]

can i get the pictures of how you did it.

[VS FTW]

sorry for the dig, but mines stuck (obviously) and i can get it turn all the way but the car wont start. everything was working fine but i hadnt started the car was listening to the stereo, then it wouldnt start so i took it out and locked/unlocked (immobilizer) but when i went to put the key back in again the ignition was stuck. What do i do replace ignition barrel? and why wont the car start?

Thanks

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

It has probably snapped the pin off at the bottom of the barrel that oges into the switch.

Can you still turn the key to the on position? If so, you will be able to get the barrel out without cutting or drilling anything.

[VS FTW]

yeah i can get it into on possy which out too much grunt

[peterbriz]

thanks guys , i just used the vicegrip on the key method and it worked , always try the easy way first .

[VS FTW]

So how do i got about this?

[vps231]

My key is not stuck, It just turns the ignition on but wont click to the start position.

Does this mean i do not have to cut, drill, punch or chisel anything???

Cheers guys,
Daniel.

[Chappo_1]

Another vote for the vice grip method. I turned it, poked the hole with an Allen key and jiggled it out of there.

All good now with a second hand one. I will buy a new one off ebay that comes with a matching door lock. $90.00

Thanks again Commodore forum dudes.

[leftleg]

I just picked up a VR wagon 2 weeks ago. I have noticed that occassionally the key is reluctant to turn. Is this the start of trouble requiring a new ignition barrel or will graphite do the job?