Tools- scissor jack
wheel brace
15 and 16mm spanner
G-clamp
Step1-jack up the car, remove brake master cylinder cap and remove wheel
step2-use the 16 and 16mm spanners to undo the bottom half of the brake caliper, lift up the caliper and remove brake pads
step3-using a g-clamp and one of the old pads, compress the piston on the caliper back in and lube if required
step4-insert pads so the meat is facing the brake rotor and re-position the slide(this is the part that the bolt connects to), position the clips that are on the brake pads are correctly fitted in place.
step5-do up the bolt firmly and let the car down (double check your work to be safe) and do up the wheel nuts........
Its important to know that when applying pressure to the pedal first off NOT to go flat stick otherwise theres a good chance of blowing the master cylinder, press the pedal half way until it goes hard.
Also when driving the car for the first time be aware the brake sare not going to pull you up very good until there bedded in, accelerate to around 60 and brake heavily, but smothly not coming to a complete stop, do this about 10 times and your brakes should be ready to go!
Cheers for the walkthrough, I was going to get mine done professionally, but might have a shot of it myself
I was only going to do my rears to start with, because I was told they've almost had it (I know the fronts do most of the work) but I had a coupleof questions
is there any problem with doing rears separate to fronts, and what brand pad would you suggest for something not heaps expensive for my drilled slotted rear rotors?
Silverline brake pads do a fine job at the back. Since the rears only provide such a small percentage of your stopping power, you don't have to feel bad using a set of $30 pads.
Nothing wrong in doing the backs separate either. Not if you ask me, anyway.
Just one note for people: When you've unbolted the brake caliper, and remove it from the rotor - PLEASE don't let it hang down by the brake line. It can cause the brake line to stress and split. Either use a folded coathanger to hold the caliper up, or balance it ontop of the rotor. I never leave my calipers unattended when they're off the car, just incase they fall and stress the brake line.
Also, you may not want to leave your master cylinder cap off for the entire job. The less time you leave your brake fluid exposed to air, the less moisture gets into it, and the less often you have to bleed the system. I find I don't even have to remove the master cylinder cap to retract the caliper pistons.
Nice writeup VNV8![]()
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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sorry guys i only know a little about cars but have a lot of tools and really need to save $$.step4-insert pads so the meat is facing the brake rotor and re-position the slide(this is the part that the bolt connects to), position the clips that are on the brake pads are correctly fitted in place.
How do u know where to repositions the slides to and what is the correct place for the clips on the brake pads?
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also another thing... i will probably sound really stupid but where is the brake master cylinder cap?
The correct place for the slides is where the pads go back over the rotors. As long as the piston is all the way in and the pads are seated, move the slide until the pads go over the rotor.
For the clips, look at them as you take it apart, they are fairly straight forward. Keep one side assembled for reference.
Make sure you don't put one of your brake pads in the wrong way, or you might incur a slight braking noise and damage to the rotor...
-The best way to learn not to do this![]()
ARGH I'm glad mine are done...should've used this How To....My way involved 2 broken ratchets :| lol
as long as it worked mate thats all that matters
Next time use a breaker bar instead of your ratchet to loosen the boltsGrab a cheapie from Supercheap. My $15 breaker bar has saved me a lot of time and effort
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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All have brand new pads so will be a whilelol (They have been there for ages, the stickers on them were starting to crack and go all weird from the pressure)
Newbies should be banned from using ratchets. I wasn't allowed to use a socket set until I was a 3rd Year Apprentice (that was a while ago now lol)
Hand spanners all the way. I should mention too, use chassis stands when working on your car!! They will save you from being an amputee if the car moves with your legs under it.
As for the guy who put the brake pad in backwards......................wow.