Removing & Installing P/S RACK VN/VP

[jetspin_vn]

In this second thread we'll look at the Rack. (I'll finish the cooler tomorrow, need to go have a beer soon)

A few words of warning (as mentioned in the earlier post but READ EM AGAIN!):
- Don't ever tamper with the design of the high pressure line or feed. It gets up to 300psi in corners, any kinks will rupture causing mess and tears
- If your not sure of the condition of your high or even low pressure lines, replace them. A new HP line from Holden is only about $30, and they do wear out
- Transmission line is fine for the LP side of things
- DON'T cross thread anything! I know at least one member of these forums can attest to this fact
- Use ONLY Dextron 3 Automatic Transmission Fluid in Commodores and Calais, anything else will attack the seals. This goes for any type of hydraulic system.

Tools Required
- Sockets & Ring Spanners, inc 10, 13, 16, 17, 18, & 19mm
- Screwdrivers
- 1 Litre Dextron 3 Automatic Transmission Fluid
- Hoseclips if yours are shagged
- Good Axle/Jack stands
- At least 2 good split pins

Power Steering Rack Removal & Re-installation
IMPORTANT NOTE: VN & VP Use a different steering column attachment. While it is possable to adapt as I did, I highly recommend using a rack from the same model as your own

1. Drain the power steering as per my earlier thread on replacing your power steering pump. Otherwise it could get messy.

2. There are two wheels with tyres on the front of your car. Remove them! Be sure the car is chocked and your axle stands are under the subframe or similar hard point. NEVER get under a vehicle supported only by a jack - we are told this time and time again yet I still see it happen.



3. The tie-rod ends are next to go. Remove the split-pin and castle nut. Chances of tie-rod budging = 0. You'll need to hammer it out. However you will destroy the thread if you don't do the next bit... The castle nut should be screwed back onto the thread UPSIDE DOWN, until the flat base of the nut and flat top of the 'bolt' are flush. Hammer it now! Once it is dislodged, remove the castle nut and the tie-rod will fall free. You can see here my old racks boots were shagged, so timing was great.



4. This is the 'brains' of the rack.
-'A' is the Steering Column Attachment
-'B' is the HP (High Pressure) Line
-'C' is the LP (Low Pressure) Line
-'D' is one of two nut and bolt assembilies that hold the rack to the subframe (one left, one right)
Remove them all in that order! Don't worry about marking the HP and LP lines, they are different bolt sizes and thus cannot be confused.



5. Slide the rack backwards out of its mounting points, and down off the shaft input. Slide the rack out from under the car. Open a beer, pat self on back.



6. Once beer is complete, reverse the process with the new rack. You will need to manouver the steering column attachment first in order to get the rack in place. Use only NEW split pins on the tie rod ends, and as i've said before, DO NOT cross thread the HP line! Get it right first time and save yourself some tears. Once done, top up the res and start the car. I highly recommend running it whilst still on stands, so you can watch for leaks in the rack lines. Allow 5 mins, and check the torque of all fittings before chucking the tyres back on and going for a blast. Keep an eye on fluid levels for the first few days too. I noticed an instant improvment in my cars handling, it feels like its on rails again.




Right, tomorrow I'll finish the P/S cooler thread. Up and coming projects in the next few months that I'll be writing up include:
- Strut Brace Installation
- Building a Man Sized Cold Air Box
...and the much anticipated...
- V6 Manual Conversion!


(c) 2008 JetSpin Racing Team
mike.j.kenyon@gmail.com

[big m]

hey jetspin great how-to just a question is there much difference between the vs as there is with the vn to change the rack

[njb1988]

just thought id add that when doing a swap for a friend i found that the steering column attachment was different on the vn from the on the vp.

[azzfox]

just thought id add that when doing a swap for a friend i found that the steering column attachment was different on the vn from the on the vp.

VP+ the clamp is a fixed part of the intermediate shaft, its also is a square fitting as apposed to the round splined VN fitting. Much easier and more solid setup. I converted to the VP setup when I replaced my rack (just need a VP intermediate shaft and rack).

[spirto]

loved the write up, great work.
VN = splined shaft
VP = slotted pin
VR & VS slightly different, from memory I think the adjustable rods (that make wheel align adjustment) are longer.

cheers.

[vxcalais_01]

Whats with the coolant droplets under your car /?

[njb1988]

my guess is its from unhookin the powersteering hoses. thats what happened to the one i did. except the shirt i was wearing caught most of it lol.

[Fu Manchu]

View this thread and you'll see
Removing & Installing P/S PUMP VN/VP

[vnsmanual]

i had a leaky rack so i brought one off a mate that i new wasnt leaking. put it in my car however im still getting some leak. no where near as bad. what should i check? hp, lp hoses?

[irVP]

Great write up, helped out a bunch! I noticed my vp didn't have the castle nuts or split pins!! Just a silcon nut??? Does the wheel aligment go way out of whack after replacing the rack? Ive only just done mine and its still on the stands due to some shagged lower control arm bushes that I'm replacig tomorrow.