How To - VT Brake Upgrade

[vsiicalais]

How To - VT Brake Upgrade

N.B. I take NO RESPONSIBILITY for damage done to your vehicle if you follow this guide and it does not work, I didnt have a problem tho!

Tools and Parts Required
(pic 1)

Instructions:

1. Make sure you have all the tools and parts you are going to require for this job.
2. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly
3. Jack the car up and support of jack stands.
4. Remove the wheel (pic 2)
5. Remove the two bolts from the rear of the caliper (pic 3)
6. Clamp the brake line near the body of the vehicle to reduce fluid loss (pic 4)
7. Loosen the bleeder on the rear of the caliper enough to allow fluid to come out. (pic 5)
8. Twist the brake line about 90 degrees and push towards the engine bay to remove (pic 6)
9. Remove the caliper from the disc (pic 7)
10. Grab the new brake line and clamp that one as well (pic 8)
11. Undo the existing brake line from the vehicle and remove (pic 9)
12. Replace the brake line with the new one and place it back in the clip on the strut (pic 10)
13. Remove the old disc from the vehicle (this may take a while and may require a rubber mallet or a hammer if you are disposing of the old discs) (pic 11)
14. Remove the guard from behind the hub as the VT caliper will not fit with it still in place (you could replace this but I will do so later on) (pic 12)
15. Place new disc on to the hub and push it on as far as you can. (pic 13)
16. Place new pads into the VT caliper ensuring the pistons are fully retracted. (pic 14)
17. Fit the VT caliper to the disc make sure the bleed nipple is at the top and ensure you tighten the two bolts on the back (pic 15)
18. Fit the brake line onto the caliper and tighten (pic 16)
19. Undo the bleeder and remove the brake line clamp to allow fluid to come through. (pic 17)
20. Bleed the entire brake system ensuring the reservour is kept full.
21. Replace the wheel and place vehicle back onto the ground
22. Enjoy the new stopping power!

[vsiicalais]

Just copied the comments for this from when it was posted in the VR-VS Section prior to being placed in here, I thought I would include them here so you guys can be more sure what the go is as I was a little vague to start with.

Wagon_Wheel - Decent write up man.
After doing the conversion myself, i would recommend going with the VT master and booster as the pedal feel is quite spongy.
I will be doing so when money permits me to do so

ephect - Leigh, nice write up

come up good, so glad you used new brake lines. be interesting how you find pedal feel, with new rubber hoses, most ppl go braided lines. i know some ppl havent had a problem and others had to upgrade to the vt booster.

post up how the pedal feel is after u bed everything in. again, top work!

littlegeorgy01 - yeah thanks mate, pedal feel isnt terrific at the moment but i can stop pretty quick, did a few 100 to 0km/h tests yesterday and was highly amazed at the distance difference vs the standard vs brakes stopping distance. i havent had any braking fade since i have done this upgrade and i would highly recommend it. altho i think i will upgrade booster some time soon.

whiteknightVR94 - Exellent write up did not know it was that easy, um not to sound like a newb but these are the LS1 GENIII VTII 330mm rotors and gear, or did the big brake`s come with the six banger as well.

VrWagz1 - Did you need the adaptor rings on the hubs, or do the vs's have a bigger hub than the vr's. Slotted rotors look nice, i only got stock vx ones on mine. I did this write up ages ago if your interested in doing the vt booster master setup.

littlegeorgy01 - no the ones i have put on did not need the adaptor rings, they were made to fit vs hubs but your standard vt ones need shims (adaptor rings)

immortality - good write up. might pay to add that you gotta make sure the bleed nipple is at the top when fitting new calipers. hopefully i'll be fitting the same upgrade on the VN soon. much lighter car so new brakes should work better still. it's a pitty about the plastic fantastic brake booosters on the VS. ican bolt a 1" master cylinder straight on mine and it's sorted

VrWagz1 -
You'll still find the pedal is crap with the 1" still. Your best to do the booster and master upgrade, the brake pedal gets shorter again and it stops properly with only a slight touch of the pedal. Its light years apart from the standard booster m/c setup.

Not_An_Abba_fan - You can use the original booster if you fit the adapter to the shaft where it goes into the 1" M/cyl.

littlegeorgy01 - thanks immortality i didnt realise i hadnt put it in.

[sedate looking]

No mention at all on which way the rotors are to go on.Would not be so good for someone to put them on with the cooling veins facing the wrong way... Not a bad write up, but could do with a little more detail to it.

[VrWagz1]

Not a bad thread dig to simply critisise some elses efforts. Its been quiet useful to alot of people.

[stocky]

No mention at all on which way the rotors are to go on.Would not be so good for someone to put them on with the cooling veins facing the wrong way... Not a bad write up, but could do with a little more detail to it.

from what ive been told it doesnt really matter what way they go on. personal preference.

[sedate looking]

Makes a big difference to the cooling of the rotors on which way the veins are facing, NOT the slots, the slots have nothing to do with cooling. It has NOTHING to do with "personal preference " at all. And VrWagz1, i would think it would be pretty bloody important to get that right, or at least to mention it.

I am sure it has helped a lot of people, but makes me wonder how many rotors ARE being installed incorrectly.The MAIN part of installing ANY new rotor has been left out completely. Not all manufacturers make the veins face the same way, so it is very individual to the rotor branding too.

[sedate looking]

And just to reinforce that fact, in the last picture i can see the vein tip, which appears to be trailing towards the rear of the car.If they are trailing to the rear THE ROTORS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED BACKWARDS.........

Don't bother having a ***ing whinge at me for pointing out this. Tech articles are suppose to help , yes, but they should also include the correct information. A lot of sites will have to approve tech articles just for this reason..

[VrWagz1]

More than likely the person who done the write up is not aware that they have a right and wrong way to go on. Just like many people who take the time and effort to write up how-to's for other people to benifit, they are not experts but simply put the effort into maybe helping others. People take there own liability on board when using any of these guides and is their responsobility to check their work is correct.
The original poster and others may have actually appreciated knowing this imformation if you would have written it in a more friendly helpful way. I also very much doubt Darren is going to employ an engineer to read peoples how-to's and approve them for use. Maybe the other forums you speak of have more reasources than this one.

[vsiicalais]

And just to reinforce that fact, in the last picture i can see the vein tip, which appears to be trailing towards the rear of the car.If they are trailing to the rear THE ROTORS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED BACKWARDS.........

Don't bother having a ***ing whinge at me for pointing out this. Tech articles are suppose to help , yes, but they should also include the correct information. A lot of sites will have to approve tech articles just for this reason..

The fins inside the disc are trailing towards the front of the car as seen in the picture. The calipers are on the front of the disc. If you have any suggestions as to what you feel needs to be added to this how to feel free to PM them to me. As stated at the start of the How To I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY TO ANY DAMAGE ETC FROM FOLLOWING THE INFORMATION I HAVE GIVEN. This is just a guide to help people if they need it. Its by no means a professional write up and I have had no problems with cooling or anything else. They have been absolutely brilliant and saved me from hitting another motorist (Their Fault)

[gslrallysport]

Makes a big difference to the cooling of the rotors on which way the veins are facing, NOT the slots, the slots have nothing to do with cooling. It has NOTHING to do with "personal preference " at all. And VrWagz1, i would think it would be pretty bloody important to get that right, or at least to mention it.

I am sure it has helped a lot of people, but makes me wonder how many rotors ARE being installed incorrectly.The MAIN part of installing ANY new rotor has been left out completely. Not all manufacturers make the veins face the same way, so it is very individual to the rotor branding too.

Correct. The direction of the external slots makes absolutely no difference what so ever. The only thing that makes a difference is the direction of the internal veins. RDA (and DBA to the best of my knowledge, certainly the Kangaroo paw is) have non-directional veins, so it makes no difference which side they go on.

Some of the more top end rotors will actually have external slots which you would consider to be going backwards, but the internal veins are correct. With slotted rotors you can't judge a book by it's cover...

[gslrallysport]

Straight from the Brembo website:

Which direction should the discs rotate?
It is a popular misconception that the slots or drillings in a disc determine the direction of rotation. In truth, for an internally vented disc, the geometry of the vanes dictates the direction of rotation. There are three vane types in use:

* Straight
* Pillar vane (comprised of many small posts)
* Curved vane

The first two vane types are non-directional, and can be used on either side of the vehicle. The curved vane disc, however, is directional. A curved vane disc must be installed with the vanes running back from the inside to outside diameters in the direction of rotation. Please see figure. Orienting the disc in the manner creates a centrifugal pump. The rotation of the disc causes air to be pumped from the center of the disc, through the vanes, and out through the outside diameter of the disc. This greatly enhances the disc's ability to dissipate heat.

Additionally, all of Brembo's slotted discs are directional as well, regardless of the vane geometry. The discs should be installed such that the end of the slot nearest the outer edge of the disc contacts the pad first.

In other words Brembo slotted discs are installed in what you guys would call backwards, regardless of the internal veins...

[bad_habits81]

just like to make a note, if anyone has a problem with brake shudder, it might come down to the fact that you need finely machined spacers which need to go between hub and rotor,it is to make sure the rotor is set dead in the right spot, if you dont use it you might find it'll be right to start with but will soon start to shudder and cause dammage to bearings and hubs, wear tyres and put extra pressure on wheel studs.... you can find these spacers on ebay, round $40 plus postage, but in the long run will be far cheaper and beneficial

[Adza75]

I have just completed this brake upgrade and can say it's a big improvement. I also converted my VR to a VT master cylinder and booster.

However one question... I used braided brake lines on the front, but as you can see in the pics in the original photo, the lines behind the front wheels no longer go through a bracket, so effectively just hang there.

Is this a problem? Should they be secured somehow? And is it a problem for rego?

[vsiicalais]

I have just completed this brake upgrade and can say it's a big improvement. I also converted my VR to a VT master cylinder and booster.

However one question... I used braided brake lines on the front, but as you can see in the pics in the original photo, the lines behind the front wheels no longer go through a bracket, so effectively just hang there.

Is this a problem? Should they be secured somehow? And is it a problem for rego?

I hadnt secured them into the brackets when i took the photos but have since zip tied them to there, it hasnt been a problem for me. For roadworthy it could possibly be an issue but im not too stressed about it. if it is an issue then i will fix it properly. altho i am not planning on having to put the car thru a roadworthy if possible. I know my front end is stuffed, quoted $1500- in parts alone to fix it and cant afford it atm. So that wouldnt pass which means i would just scrap the car for parts.

Also are you able to do a write up on what is needed and how you did the booster/master cylinder upgrade that you could post as a seperate How to as i want to upgrade mine but havent been able to get the info i need. Thanks mate

[jimmig81]

Thanks mate got all the shit off a wrecked WH gonna do this to my inlaws VS stata

[holdenrocks]

How To - VT Brake Upgrade

N.B. I take NO RESPONSIBILITY for damage done to your vehicle if you follow this guide and it does not work, I didnt have a problem tho!

Tools and Parts Required
(pic 1)

Instructions:

1. Make sure you have all the tools and parts you are going to require for this job.
2. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly
3. Jack the car up and support of jack stands.
4. Remove the wheel (pic 2)
5. Remove the two bolts from the rear of the caliper (pic 3)
6. Clamp the brake line near the body of the vehicle to reduce fluid loss (pic 4)
7. Loosen the bleeder on the rear of the caliper enough to allow fluid to come out. (pic 5)
8. Twist the brake line about 90 degrees and push towards the engine bay to remove (pic 6)
9. Remove the caliper from the disc (pic 7)
10. Grab the new brake line and clamp that one as well (pic 8)
11. Undo the existing brake line from the vehicle and remove (pic 9)
12. Replace the brake line with the new one and place it back in the clip on the strut (pic 10)
13. Remove the old disc from the vehicle (this may take a while and may require a rubber mallet or a hammer if you are disposing of the old discs) (pic 11)
14. Remove the guard from behind the hub as the VT caliper will not fit with it still in place (you could replace this but I will do so later on) (pic 12)
15. Place new disc on to the hub and push it on as far as you can. (pic 13)
16. Place new pads into the VT caliper ensuring the pistons are fully retracted. (pic 14)
17. Fit the VT caliper to the disc make sure the bleed nipple is at the top and ensure you tighten the two bolts on the back (pic 15)
18. Fit the brake line onto the caliper and tighten (pic 16)
19. Undo the bleeder and remove the brake line clamp to allow fluid to come through. (pic 17)
20. Bleed the entire brake system ensuring the reservour is kept full.
21. Replace the wheel and place vehicle back onto the ground
22. Enjoy the new stopping power!

between 13 to 15, need to add, remove whole the hub and remove the wheel bearing the same time so u can remove the guard more easy..
as i was trying to work out and found it more easy way.. i hope this will help all of you? cheers

[vxcalais_01]

When doing this on older cars from VK onward, does the master cylinder and brake booster need upgrading as well ?

[jashdown91]

Makes a big difference to the cooling of the rotors on which way the veins are facing, NOT the slots, the slots have nothing to do with cooling. It has NOTHING to do with "personal preference " at all. And VrWagz1, i would think it would be pretty bloody important to get that right, or at least to mention it.

I am sure it has helped a lot of people, but makes me wonder how many rotors ARE being installed incorrectly.The MAIN part of installing ANY new rotor has been left out completely. Not all manufacturers make the veins face the same way, so it is very individual to the rotor branding too.

well if you cant make them face the right way then why would you do a brake swap? deerrrr. obviously you wouldnt be doing the upgrade yourself if you couldnt face the rotors the right way.

[sedate looking]

well if you cant make them face the right way then why would you do a brake swap? deerrrr. obviously you wouldnt be doing the upgrade yourself if you couldnt face the rotors the right way.

Well clearly it was NOT included in the first post you ***ing peanut...DEEERRRRR !!!!!!!!!!!!!

[robbbbo666]

thanks mate massive help

[crewsy]

great write up here! wondering if anyone can give me some advice on a few questions...
Mate just wrote off his VY S2 exec and I would like to take his brakes. Was just wondering whether the calipers and all are the same as the VT setup? also, can I just buy some VS slotted rotors and they still work fine with the new calipers?

[VrWagz1]

just grab all of the gear off your mates it will all match up to the vs with the hub rings. No vs slotted will not work with the new calipers, they are too thin.

[crewsy]

just grab all of the gear off your mates it will all match up to the vs with the hub rings. No vs slotted will not work with the new calipers, they are too thin.

cheers for that vrwagz, reckon I should also grab his booster and master cyclinder and just mod it to fit? how much should i offer him for all that

[White Lion]

How To - VT Brake Upgrade

22. Enjoy the new stopping power!

what is the difference
i mean if my speed is 100
how many meters need for full stop

[stocky]

what is the difference
i mean if my speed is 100
how many meters need for full stop

judging by your profile picture, you dont need these brakes. yours are already above these