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Thread: DIY: Removing those pesky door moulds

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    Default DIY: Removing those pesky door moulds

    Ok guys well when i bought my VZ Wagon one of the door moulds was no exsistant and some terrible looking sikaflex glue

    was in it's place, the other ones were cracked and broken as well, so i thought i would try my hand at getting them off

    so this is how i did it, it might not be the only way, or the best way but yeah. it can work.

    NOTE** Seriously, before you start this here's a word of warning

    This is a massive job, like I'm talking at least 10 hours or so if you want to do this carefully, if i had the choice i

    would have just taken them to a panel shop and got them sprayed, but unfortunately i didn't have that option, once you

    start this it's pretty hard to go back...


    Here they are...the dreaded door moulds...




    Ok, now that's over here's what your going to need

    Removing the Strips
    • Fishing line
    • either gloves or some kind of little wooden pole/stick to rap the end of the line around.
    • Hair dryer
    • hotwater
    • patience - and plenty off it

    Removing the Sikaflex Glue
    • Caramel Wheel - If you don't know that this is then it's a rubber wheel you attach to your drill to get the glue off
      (see photo below). To purchase one just go to your nearest automotive paint supplier and ask for a "pin stripe removal wheel"
    • A drill
    • some rags/clothes
    • tea tree oil
    • a Mask (optional but advised)
    • Sunnies or something of the likes to protect your eyes

    here's what a Caramel wheel looks like: (I had already started using mine hence the black edge)



    REMOVING THE STRIPS
    Step one: Give the car a wash or give it a good hosing and leave it in the sun if possible, the glue we're going to be

    trying to cut through is mad more malleable by heat and water.

    Step two: Next get out your hair dryer and heat the strip until it gets hot, this might take a minute or two.


    Step Three: Get a length of fishing line about 20cm - 30cm and slip it behind the strip, if you meet alot of resistance

    then i found pooring some hot water over the strip while trying to lift it up a bit to expose the glue will help.

    Step four: Use a slow and firm up and down sawing motion to cut through the glue, your not going to get far before you

    have to re-heat the strip so just take it slow and try not to get the line cutting into the door mould as opposed to the

    glue.

    (i was using dental floss here...didn't last long)

    Step Five: Once you have met significant resistance then you have to reheat the strip to get the glue slightly melted in

    the fishing lines new position, so just leave the line there and use your hair dryer/hot water again before repeating the

    cutting process.



    Continue the above steps until you've managed to get the whole strip off, i found that after i could get some leverage

    and lift the strip up that hot water worked the best on heating the glue as it get weakened by both heat and water. Also

    if you work on both ends so that your final cutting is made in the middle of the strip then you might be able to slowly

    and carefully (don't damage your paint!) move the strip around to loosen the glue.


    OK! So now are door strip(s) are off. GREAT! only problem is we're left with a mess looking something like this:



    Looks pretty terrible don't it. Youd should see a line of sikaflex glue on the bottom of the indent/groove with another

    on top and a big strip of double sided tape directly on top of that




    Well the next step is to give the panel you just did your work on a wash, so

    Step six: Give the panel a wash, get all the dust and dirt and any other crap hidden under there off. You might not want

    to use your good sponge for this as the sikaflex makes massive black smudges on everything. Once that is done then leave

    your car in the sun to dry.

    Step seven: Once the car is dry then try and pull off any bits of sikaflex that you can, if an edge is slightly up then

    slowly try and lift it off the panel. It will save you heaps of time later.

    REMOVING THE SIKAFLEX GLUE

    Step one: Get out your caramel wheel and your drill and put them together then plug it in. If you have a hand hold/brace

    thing like you can see on my drill then put that on as well.


    Step two: too use the caramel properly you want it to be spinning in a reverse direction to the way your going to be

    traveling. Here's a full hektic paint drawing i did to show you the way, it's in horizontal plane (looking down towards

    the ground) and the black line is the sikaflex and the circle the caramel wheel.



    Step Three: Ok, now the we know what were doing it's time to start. If your drill is a two speed, set it to its fastest

    speed and then stand parallel to the panel your working on and start the drill spinning. Ok when you do this your most

    likely going to freak out and think im a crackhead or something because this thing LOOKS like it will just strip the

    paint right off, but you just got to believe me when i say it doesn't. It's actually quite hard to damage your paint

    with the wheel as it works by friction to heat the sikaflex so it's mallebale enough for the spinning motion of the wheel

    to flick it off. Essentially a Caramel wheel is just a big circle eraser.

    Ok, so we're standing parallel to the panel and the wheel is spinning. What you want to do is line the edge of the wheel

    up with the sikaflex and apply a firm but not hard(or too soft for that matter) amount of pressure to the strip while

    moving the wheel in your chosen direction.




    You want to take this slow and do it evenly. So apply a constant amount of pressure and move the wheel in the ONE

    direction at a constant speed of about 1cm - 2cm per second. By holding the wheel too long in the one spot you can heat

    up the area too much and cause the paint to burn, but if you do what i say then you should be fine.


    (Try and hold the wheel a bit straighter than i am!)

    ok, that basically how it's done! It's going to take awhile so you have to be prepared to put in the work, if you rush

    it then your most likely going to stuff something up, but don't be ultra careful either, otherwise you'll grow old before

    you finish this. If your wheel starts to smoke excessively then it's getting too hot, so it's best then to dip it in

    some cold water and leave it for awhile, but if the smoke isn't too bad then just keep going. It's best to wear a mask

    throughout this as sikaflex is pretty indestructible stuff (as im sure you've found out) and you would hate to get it all

    on your lungs...


    Step four: Just continue moving your way up and down the strip slowly getting the glue off, don't be worried if it makes

    some gross smudges or if you see some multicoloured burn mark like things come up because they come off easily later.

    When you make your way up and down the strip the sikaflex will be flying everwhere, including all over the panel, so one

    it builds up to much then flick your rag over the panel to get it off.

    Step five: Continue what you've been doing basically. Once you have got it all gone then your left with a pretty good

    looking panel apart from those nasty smudge marks and burn spots. So what we need to do now is give the panel a wash in

    some nice hot soapy water. once that is done and the panel is relatively dry then get out a clean cloth or the likes and

    rub hard at the smudge marks, if you rub horizontal and then vertical each part for about 5 seconds most of it should

    come off easy.

    Step six: Once most of the smudge is gone then get out your tea tree oil, tip some on the rag and then rub at the smudge

    more, this should get any left over residue off and get the panel looking great.

    Step seven: Now for those burn marks, basically it's just the same as the above step, use the tea tree oil and rub at

    them firmly and they should come out.

    Step eight: Ok, now for the final touches, give the car a wash again to get rid of anything left over and finish with a

    cut and polish. And your done!!

    here's some finishing results.





    Note* yeah, i've only done two strips so far haha (passenger and driver fronts)
    Last edited by Weekend Warrior; 05-09-2008 at 04:47 PM.

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    Nice, good write up, now i know what to do with a caramel wheel. Looks heaps better without the strip.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
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    Hey...turning this thread around a bit...Once there off (I want to repaint mine and do some stuff with them), what do I use to get them back on?

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    LightningVP is offline Donating Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by hakhawk View Post
    sikaflex and double sided tape, same stuff used at the factory
    Ok thanks...I should be able to get the tape off my step-mum (works at 3M in the car section), was just seeing if there was another cheaper, easier, etc...way...

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    just remember that it will most likely be alot easier if you just paint them or what ever when there on the car. Just mask the **** through the surrounding panels.

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    Nice write up .My son wants his removed but i think i will just paint them . It wasn't that long ago that Holden had trouble trying to stop them faling off the car .
    there are three types of people in the world , those who can count and those who can't

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    yeah definatley paint them, makes the job so much easier and you still have the added bonus of the protection the strips provide.

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    Not being too picky here, But it looks to me like theres paint missing?
    Is the caramel wheel really necessary? Or is there something else to remove the sikaflex. (preferably a paintless remover)

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    nah there is no paint missing, the bits your probably referring too is little bits of missed sikaflex that i was yet to remove, you can kinda see them in the pics. And as far as i know there is nothing that can remove this stuff as quickly and as easily as a caramel wheel.

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    wax and polish remover also gets it off but it takes a damn long time, gonna go try and find a caramel wheel today and give that a shot, ive still got a bit of glue i couldnt get off so ill try this, thanks

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    these caramel wheels are hard to find, ended up settling for one on ebay hope its alright

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    Nice how to mate. I gave it a quick shot just then and works as decribed. Spewing the paint under the rubber is a different color lol, useless backyarders...

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    Thanks for that Needwork, unlucky about the colour difference, damn dodgy work experience kids hahaha.

    and camo645 they probably would do it for you, but would charge you pretty crazy amounts. You'd be better off going to a local panel beater probably

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    yeah wanna get mine off the VX but dont wanna do it myself!
    im lazy like that.. so might make some inquires to holden and
    some local panel beaters, ill let ya know how it goes!

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