and the rest of the pics!
G,day lads, well been talking with another member on here (VS_pete_1) and he passed on some info on how to upgrade the earth on the o2 sensors, wich is supposed to give better economy ect, well i did it today and while i cannot vouch as yet if i will reap any gains it was not hard to do, and was not expensive! here is a list of the tools/products needed:
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Solder iron
solder
15amp wire available from repco on a roll for $5 (you will only need one roll as its 4m in length)
EYE connections also from repco about $4
electrical tape
needle nose pliers (for crimping)
side cutters (for cutting wire lol)
and if you have them a pair of wire splicers
allan key to suit top plenum cover bolts
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Ok here is the instructions sent to me from VS_Pete_1 (your a champion mate)
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Remove engine cover – 4 x 10mm nuts.
Standing along side LHF guard look down the back of the engine area to locate the o2 sensor in the engine exhaust pie. Follow wires back to the connector and unplug the connector. In the main harness side there will be 4 x wires (2 will be Black).
Without cutting wires completely (pain to repair if you do) strip back approx 5mm of insulation on the 2 black wire in the main engine harness. With a separate piece of wire – approx 400 – 500mm long (you will have to buy some unless you have some laying around at home) approx 1 to 1.5mm strip both ends approx 20mm. Twist one end of the new wire around the 2 black ones in the engine harness (the one’s you’ve just striped back) to join all 3 wires together. Solder if you’d like but at least use some electrical tape to cover. Reconnect main harness back to o2 sensor.
On the other end of the new wire crimp / solder an eye terminal (you’ll have to buy a couple with hole diameter approx 6mm (from memory the allen key bolts into the top of the plenumn cover are approx 5mm in size – double check before buying terminals).
Once terminal fitted to wire remove 1 allen key bolt from plenumn cover (the plate under the engine cover). I’d recommend a bolt closest to the o2 sensor (back rh corner when looking from the front). Fit bolt through eye terminal and retighten bolt – approx 8nm.
Carry out same repairs to drivers side and once done refit engine cover and then drive vehicle as per normal. There is no need to pull BCM fuse out to reset fuel trims etc.
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Now when it came for me to do it, i did cut the wires and resoldered them as i found it easier, but each 2 their ownanyway here is some pics to help guide you along!!
MY RIDE 96 calais
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...96-calais.html
ALSO MY 1972 VALIANT CHARGER IN THE BUILD
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...t-charger.html
and the rest of the pics!
MY RIDE 96 calais
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...96-calais.html
ALSO MY 1972 VALIANT CHARGER IN THE BUILD
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...t-charger.html
MY RIDE 96 calais
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...96-calais.html
ALSO MY 1972 VALIANT CHARGER IN THE BUILD
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...t-charger.html
Theres some more info in this link, in post 2 in this thread if anyone wants to read more about them.
coolant temp sensor resistance
there is a holden fix for this.
in the right hand bank o2 sensor, just cut the pink wire.
there is a heater element that runs at 12v constant, and is earthed at the same point as the o2 sensor which is variable depending on o2 levels. this causes interfereance and gives a false o2 reading, resulting in poor fuel economy.
the earthing described above is a bit of a myth, i have heard it from a few places but no conlucive evidence.
also, if you are doing this, you must buy 2 brand new o2 sensors.
cutting the pink wire is the cheap solution. re-earthing is a better solution. i would do it at the ecu end however.
there was a thread some time ago where a test was done on a members ride with a plug in diagnostic tool before and after doing the earthing mod at the ecu. before it could be seem that the O2 readings were inacurate (outside the normal operating voltage). after the mod the O2 sensors could be clearly seen to be operating in the correct range as the AFR rolled around the stoich ratio. the member had been through a number of failed O2 sensors before hand.
Body by Holden, Soul by Brock
the Legend will live forever
VN exec T5: 15.1sec @92.2mph 1/4 mile, 9.7sec @ 74.6mph 1/8mile, 2.3sec 60ft, 0-60mph 6.827sec 22/11/07 Gtech competition
Hi there.
Thanks to hsvpgts (Adam) he passed this info on to me after I sent him an email.
Thanks to cxcxcxvcvcvc for adding pics and write up.
Last edited by VS_Pete_1; 23-10-2008 at 05:27 AM.
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm" Sir Winston Churchill.
My VS II Berlina Wagon
i have after market o2 sensors which have two blue and two white wires?
would i cut the wire in the actual engine wiring loom or cut the wire on the o2 sensor side of the loom (before the clip)...and as they are different colours on each side of the clip i'd cut the wire that is opposite to the pink wire on the o2 sensor loom? i.e i mean the blue wire lines up with the pink wire so id cut the blue wire
vs oxygen 'pink" wire help
Read post number 6.
Engine side mate
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm" Sir Winston Churchill.
My VS II Berlina Wagon
Presumably this only applies to heated O2 sensors? 2-wire sensors don't have this problem?
happened to of noticed any economical difference at all cxcxcxvcvcvc?
MY RIDE 96 calais
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...96-calais.html
ALSO MY 1972 VALIANT CHARGER IN THE BUILD
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...t-charger.html
http://shoppingsecure.com.au/ - JC's Rep
PM me or email philthy@shoppingsecure.com.au for all your stereo needs
All ecotecs have two sensors.
i have a vr with a vx v6 supercharged engine, would that sensor be causin it to dump fuel and miss fire over 3.5 grand . the guy i bought it off has done the dodgy on it, i got it wit blown heads, i thought that might have been the prob but i got brand new heads and still doin same thing.
could be a few things mate, faulty crank angle sensor, fuel pump on its way out, most probably though it will be the coil pack on its way out, best way to check your coils is to turn the car off and remove the first 2 leads of the first coil pack and then start the car and check that the spark from the coil pack jumps from metal tip to tip! If the spark jumps anywhere else like down or onto the coil then that coil is faulty and needs to be replaced!
MY RIDE 96 calais
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...96-calais.html
ALSO MY 1972 VALIANT CHARGER IN THE BUILD
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...t-charger.html
BTW, instead of stripping your wires, why dont you just use Wire taps? You can get them from any Dick Smith store cost probably like $5 for a pack of 5. Just clip onto wire, press hard with pliers and connect another wire with the adaptor to the clip you just put over the earth wire?
That's probably easier and will allow you to put the tap on anywhere (So closer to where you want to ground so you wont have to have a 40-50cm wire it can just be 10cm or less). So you'll effectivly have the original earth and another one which will help with better grounding.
Any moisture you get in there will corrode the wires and the connector and lose your contact. The scotch locks are a lazy way of connecting wires that will fail eventually.
when you cut the pink wire. Do you simply just cut it???
and is that for both 02 sensors? i just put new sensors in but havent cut the wire yet, is it ok to do that after 2 days. Havent driven the car much.
MY RIDE 96 calais
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...96-calais.html
ALSO MY 1972 VALIANT CHARGER IN THE BUILD
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...t-charger.html
So lets get this straight for everybody.
You connect a new single black wire to the "2" black wires (all 3 soldered together) coming from each O2 sensor on each bank, as there are 2 black wires (2earths) on each sensor, LH and RH and run these 2 single wires to a good engine earth and not neccessarily together.
By the way I did the red wire cut method and logging shows that it made the O2's start working properly when cruising but they still don't read right when throttle is closed or decelerating.
Before I cut the O2 red's they were reading the same as per how they read now with throttle closed and my city usage was around the 22L/100k and highway about 14-15L/100k.
So with the reds cut my cruising/highway economy has come back to almost normal 10-10.5L/100k (used to get 9.5-10 easily) but my city usage is still hopeless up around 20's (used to get 17's easy).
Maybe my temp sensor has something to do with it.
This is driving me mad as it seemed to happen overnight because when the price of petrol fell I stopped checking my fuel usage and then when I did by chance it hit me for 6, 22.5L/100k city use.
SW
HSV VZ LS2 Senator, Stealth2 cam 307rwkw.http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ados-blue.html
VS11 Berlina L67 super6 wagon 196rwkw. http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ified-cai.html