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This is applicable to VN-VS, although VT and early VX are similar.
These links were introduced on VN and are the 'factory take’ on what was a common aftermarket modification with the similar front suspension (VN-VP) on VB-VL Commodores.
There are three common failure modes:
1) A nut or the link pulls or pushes through one of the washers.
2) The bushes split or squash.
3) The large cupped washer on the top of the bracket on the strut wears and the locating spigot separates from the rest of the washer.
The symptom is usually a 'clunk' when turning or a rattle over bumps. A visual inspection may not be sufficient if the bushes are just squashed. A check is that they should not be easily rotated when installed.
Often early failure is caused by incorrect installation and some people have had difficulty in installing them in the past (mostly by trying to do one side at a time), hence a 'How To'.
Required:
Jack, chassis stands, 14mm open ended spanner, ~6" shifting spanner and a 13mm ring-open end spanner, or a 13mm 3/8" drive socket and ratchet, swivel and ~6" extension.
Step 1:
Remove the wheel trims (if applicable), loosen the wheel nuts, lift the front of the car, support it on axle stands under the chassis rails and remove the wheels.
Step 2:
Remove the nuts (2) from each of the old links using the 14mm open end. To stop the link from rotating, hold the flat (most) or the hex (some aftermarket) on the link with the shifter.
I find this easiest with the handle of the shifter aligned with ARB lever arm. One hand can then hold both the shifter and ARB lever arm and you can use the ARB for support. This will mean that you will need to be a bit ambidextrous and swap the hands holding the spanner and shifter between each side.
Remove the links, washers and bushes. You may have to turn the wheels to do this.
Step 3:
Remove the ARB from the saddle clamps in front of the engine subframe using the 13mm ring open end or 3/8' drive socket. Support it on another two axle stands (or use a mate to help or whatever works for you). The rear most bolts do not have to be removed entirely and it's easier if they are left in place. (The open slot on the saddle clamps should face the rear).
This is the step most people omit. It is necessary to ensure that the lever arms of the ARB can be perpendicular to the links thus avoiding twisting the link bushes during installation.
Step 4:
Arrange the new link assemblies in the correct order. For a genuine kit, top to bottom, this will be:
Upper: nut/small washer/bush/large cupped washer/bracket on strut/bush/small washer.
Lower: small washer/bush/ARB/bush/small washer/nut.
Each of the small washers should have the cup facing away from the bush so that it can move relative to the bush. (Some people turn them over in an attempt to prevent the bushes squeezing out of position - this only makes it worse).
Clean the mounting surfaces of the link bracket on the strut and, most importantly, the ARB. This avoids any dirt hastening the erosion of the large cupped washer, the cause of failure 3).
Install the top assembly completely of both of the links.
Position the ARB (by adjusting the height of the axle stands, or mate or whatever) so that, with the link ends of the ARB at installed height, the ARB lever arms are parallel to the sill of the car (not necessarily the ground) . This also means that the lever arms are perpendicular to the links. This is so the bushes are not pushed out of the cups in the ARB during installation because of angularity between the link and the ARB.
Install the lower assembly of the links. For both top and bottom the nuts should be tightened until you feel the torque required increase slightly. This should result in about ~15mm thread sticking out past the nut on the top and ~10mm thread sticking out past the nut on the bottom. (The difference is the thickness of the ARB vs the bracket of the strut).
Step 5:
Refit the ARB saddle clamps. Slide back of the clamps in first, finger tighten all of the bolts, tighten the front bolts, then the rear.
Step 6:
Refit the wheels, tighten the wheel nuts as best can be done with the car raised, lower the car and tighten the wheel nuts fully. Wheel trims on if necessary. Done.
These links were introduced on VN and are the 'factory take’ on what was a common aftermarket modification with the similar front suspension (VN-VP) on VB-VL Commodores.
There are three common failure modes:
1) A nut or the link pulls or pushes through one of the washers.
2) The bushes split or squash.
3) The large cupped washer on the top of the bracket on the strut wears and the locating spigot separates from the rest of the washer.
The symptom is usually a 'clunk' when turning or a rattle over bumps. A visual inspection may not be sufficient if the bushes are just squashed. A check is that they should not be easily rotated when installed.
Often early failure is caused by incorrect installation and some people have had difficulty in installing them in the past (mostly by trying to do one side at a time), hence a 'How To'.
Required:
Jack, chassis stands, 14mm open ended spanner, ~6" shifting spanner and a 13mm ring-open end spanner, or a 13mm 3/8" drive socket and ratchet, swivel and ~6" extension.
Step 1:
Remove the wheel trims (if applicable), loosen the wheel nuts, lift the front of the car, support it on axle stands under the chassis rails and remove the wheels.
Step 2:
Remove the nuts (2) from each of the old links using the 14mm open end. To stop the link from rotating, hold the flat (most) or the hex (some aftermarket) on the link with the shifter.
I find this easiest with the handle of the shifter aligned with ARB lever arm. One hand can then hold both the shifter and ARB lever arm and you can use the ARB for support. This will mean that you will need to be a bit ambidextrous and swap the hands holding the spanner and shifter between each side.
Remove the links, washers and bushes. You may have to turn the wheels to do this.
Step 3:
Remove the ARB from the saddle clamps in front of the engine subframe using the 13mm ring open end or 3/8' drive socket. Support it on another two axle stands (or use a mate to help or whatever works for you). The rear most bolts do not have to be removed entirely and it's easier if they are left in place. (The open slot on the saddle clamps should face the rear).
This is the step most people omit. It is necessary to ensure that the lever arms of the ARB can be perpendicular to the links thus avoiding twisting the link bushes during installation.
Step 4:
Arrange the new link assemblies in the correct order. For a genuine kit, top to bottom, this will be:
Upper: nut/small washer/bush/large cupped washer/bracket on strut/bush/small washer.
Lower: small washer/bush/ARB/bush/small washer/nut.
Each of the small washers should have the cup facing away from the bush so that it can move relative to the bush. (Some people turn them over in an attempt to prevent the bushes squeezing out of position - this only makes it worse).
Clean the mounting surfaces of the link bracket on the strut and, most importantly, the ARB. This avoids any dirt hastening the erosion of the large cupped washer, the cause of failure 3).
Install the top assembly completely of both of the links.
Position the ARB (by adjusting the height of the axle stands, or mate or whatever) so that, with the link ends of the ARB at installed height, the ARB lever arms are parallel to the sill of the car (not necessarily the ground) . This also means that the lever arms are perpendicular to the links. This is so the bushes are not pushed out of the cups in the ARB during installation because of angularity between the link and the ARB.
Install the lower assembly of the links. For both top and bottom the nuts should be tightened until you feel the torque required increase slightly. This should result in about ~15mm thread sticking out past the nut on the top and ~10mm thread sticking out past the nut on the bottom. (The difference is the thickness of the ARB vs the bracket of the strut).
Step 5:
Refit the ARB saddle clamps. Slide back of the clamps in first, finger tighten all of the bolts, tighten the front bolts, then the rear.
Step 6:
Refit the wheels, tighten the wheel nuts as best can be done with the car raised, lower the car and tighten the wheel nuts fully. Wheel trims on if necessary. Done.
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