Engine Oil ?

[vxcalais_01]

PM me the results, i have the 2nd results of the ULX on the other page for you....

I know moly and graphite are used, i am still not convinced Nulon do not use it, what is stopping them ???

[jazza15]

I don't use oil...

[vxcalais_01]

why is that jazza ?

[vxcalais_01]

I was under the impression friction modifiers were banned. That is unless you include moly and teflon as friction modifiers- moly becoming far more prevelant, as you know. They were heavily used in the 80's untill the problems became apparent.

Was passed a Royal Purple analasys the other day with some interesting, but somewhat inconclusive results. I should really pass it on to anyone interested.....

http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf

Brad, from the above Friction modifiers are primarily Esters and Fatty acids. These things are used in abundance hehe, i think they have slipped through your screen......

Everyone, the above attachment is a fantastic paper on oil, very easy to read, it has amazing information. I am not sure if i have posted on here yet. Teaches you pretty much everything you need to know, enough to make mechanics think twice about that they stick in your engine ! The viscosities are slightly offset as we don't get the extreme weather as they do in U.S and Latin America. 10W40 is regarded as a thick oil over there.

[commsirac]

http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf

Brad, from the above Friction modifiers are primarily Esters and Fatty acids. These things are used in abundance hehe, i think they have slipped through your screen......

Everyone, the above attachment is a fantastic paper on oil, very easy to read, it has amazing information. I am not sure if i have posted on here yet. Teaches you pretty much everything you need to know, enough to make mechanics think twice about that they stick in your engine ! The viscosities are slightly offset as we don't get the extreme weather as they do in U.S and Latin America. 10W40 is regarded as a thick oil over there.

just had a quick scan and looks very informative. I like how they have included a few graphs of the decreasing exponential relationship between viscosity and temperature,though such graphs provide better resolution at lower values if a logarithmic scale is used. This is essential viewing for anyone wanting to make some informed comment on the use of lower W oils.

[vxcalais_01]

In the U.S, they are always using thinner oils, I have been told, that apart from being crazy about oil they struggle to find the best oil, as they have such extremities in weather in many parts of America. When it starts snowing in any of the Capital cities, we will start talking about 5W20 oils. They also have generally much better oils than us. The tables i think were relating more to how different base oils, GRoup 1, 2 etc perform with different levels of additives. I think it says how a better base oil with less additives can perform better than say a Group 1, but the Group 1 performed better than the others with the correct additives. I'd be interested to see the whole test, probably not available.

Commsirac- yes i did forget to mention the viscosity curves. THey can be usefull. The table is a good one as well with the different viscosity as cst's, you can see how some brands border line on either Mobil tending to be on the lower end of the spectrum. Basically the charts show that any oil at startup is really too thick, for a period of time. It should also show a duration, with any 1 oil only being too thick for a short period. Eventually they all thin out to spec.

If you really want to convert people to thin oils get them to read this......http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/aehaas/

People can do their own research on wether they agree with it or not...... Again, i dot believe in it in its entirety. AEHAAS is on BITOG, it would be easy to ask him if he feels that this recommendation is suitable to Australia and asia etc etc. But good information nevertheless.

[vxcalais_01]

OK, i have sent him a message, i will post it if he replies. Just looking at his recents posts, he is talking about Ford trialling 0W 20 oil on its new 4WD while driving through the Arizona desert !

Ohh yeah and the cars he talks about in the report, i think he really owns them ! http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...ue#Post1246322

[6 shooter]

Ive ticked valvoline because i used in my last 2 oil changes but i went for elf normally because my old mans cuzzy is a rep for them also i use motul in the ginja ninja

[vxcalais_01]

I'm currently discussing Motul on other forums, what are your experiences with it ??? Have you tried it in the commodore yet ??

[ozengines]

Penrite good Aussie Oil for Aussie V8's

[Tasmaniak]

AMSOIL from the US...got a cheap hook up on it. It's da bomb.

[VT-565]

I use Mobil Delvac rebadged as Repco Diesel in the V8 Cruiser, seems pretty good, used to use Magnatec in my turbo hilux, it was very good, yes even in a diesel engine. Used to use Penrite in my VT V6, my big block uses VP Fuels 15W-50 Synthetic

[vxcalais_01]

I use Mobil Delvac rebadged as Repco Diesel in the V8 Cruiser, seems pretty good, used to use Magnatec in my turbo hilux, it was very good, yes even in a diesel engine. Used to use Penrite in my VT V6, my big block uses VP Fuels 15W-50 Synthetic

Good assortment of oils, I have used the Repco Diesel stuff its pretty good.

Tasmaniak - Which Amsoil are you using ? Did you get it from the Mob i Melbourne ??? Its about $70 plus for 5 litres here.

[alien]

Go the Nulon! Thats some good stuff there! I've used it in many commodores i've worked on over the years and everyone loves it. Even an old 67 XR (Yes a Ford) loves the Nulon stuff and that guy doesn't want anything else in his car anymore!

[vxcalais_01]

Go the Nulon! Thats some good stuff there! I've used it in many commodores i've worked on over the years and everyone loves it. Even an old 67 XR (Yes a Ford) loves the Nulon stuff and that guy doesn't want anything else in his car anymore!

Which Nulons do u recommend ? I have only used the Diesel version. I have asked them but i am still not convinced they dont use Teflon....They do seem like a decent budget item. Their brake fluid specs up to be better than the other OTC....higher boiling point for a Super Dot 4 and well priced.

[alien]

Which Nulons do u recommend ? I have only used the Diesel version. I have asked them but i am still not convinced they dont use Teflon....They do seem like a decent budget item. Their brake fluid specs up to be better than the other OTC....higher boiling point for a Super Dot 4 and well priced.

I've used the following Oils:
Synthetic 5W-30 and 5W40
10W-30 Hi-Tech Fast Flowing
and
15W-40 Modern Everyday Engine

Syntetics weren't really as good as i expected, the Hi-Tech fast flowing i've used in cars that performance was neccessary including the re-built XR and the drivers never wanna go back now. Modern Everyday is in my mum's Berlina and havn't had any trouble. That berlina is also running the Nulon long life coolant at a 1-1 ratio.

I'm thinking about giving the Castrol Sports a go with high perfomance filter. Anyone give any thoughts on the Sports Edge?

[Farlig]

im running 10w60 edge in my ls1 atm, and it sounds like a tractor, not happy, was running mobil 1 its whole life and although it had some ticking sounds they were better than the sounds i have now with edge. i will switch to hpr10 next oil change and see if thats any better.

oils are all suggestive thou, every engine is different.

[vxcalais_01]

Engine is engine, Ecotec, Alloytec, LS1 clearances out of factory are the same. Mods, engine wear and tune will determine.

Which Mobil 1 were you using ? Again it is usually on the lighter side, and people often experience the tractor with it. Also don't judge an oil from only 1 use of it.....Remember, Castrol Edge is using the same base oils from Mobil....

[ashbox]

i'll be putting in motul full synthetic when mines due in about 3 thou and then when it goes in for a service i'll pay the extra for full synthetic.

[vxcalais_01]

Yeah, motul have a fantastic variety. Whatever you do, do not use 'SOME' of the 300V range, or whichever is their top one as it is a racing only version, which is for short drain periods only, like track days etc. Not suited for everyday use. Go the 8100 5W40 or something. Thats one of their best. They have other ester base ones but cant remember which ones they have here.

[Johnsy]

I heard mobile 1 is not as good anymore as its now made in taiwan not japan ( i think) Only reason i ask is i have a" use only mobile 1" oil cap on my motor...

Can i request better stuff from Holden/HSV ?

[vxcalais_01]

Johnsy, this is a good sign if its made in Taiwan. It would possibly still be bottled here, but Taiwan and Singapore are where I believe the GRoup 3 Hydrocracked and PAO come from, one from either. Australia only has Group 1, this is why most of our oils are like this. GRoup 1 is good if it has a good additive pack. SL rated at least is what you look for, and use for 5000k's. Not really suited for drains up to 10,000k's unless is SM rated. That will mean that is either a Group 2 oil, or blended with Synthetic GRoup 3, PAO or Ester...... A SM rated GRoup 1,2 or blend oil with a good additive pack will compete with the best full synthetic. My only concerns with Mobil 1 is its price, just too expensive. But use it with confidence if you can afford it. Valvoline Synpower is a good alternative though if you can get it for around $45-$60.

If a oil was 100% Oz made with 100% Oz additves i would be concerned. 100% Oz made could just mean its blended here with imported additives from Exxon, Shell etc and many others and this is what you want.

[Tam]

Ive always used Castrol,had no probs with it...

[Johnsy]

Johnsy, this is a good sign if its made in Taiwan. It would possibly still be bottled here, but Taiwan and Singapore are where I believe the GRoup 3 Hydrocracked and PAO come from, one from either. Australia only has Group 1, this is why most of our oils are like this. GRoup 1 is good if it has a good additive pack. SL rated at least is what you look for, and use for 5000k's. Not really suited for drains up to 10,000k's unless is SM rated. That will mean that is either a Group 2 oil, or blended with Synthetic GRoup 3, PAO or Ester...... A SM rated GRoup 1,2 or blend oil with a good additive pack will compete with the best full synthetic. My only concerns with Mobil 1 is its price, just too expensive. But use it with confidence if you can afford it. Valvoline Synpower is a good alternative though if you can get it for around $45-$60.

If a oil was 100% Oz made with 100% Oz additves i would be concerned. 100% Oz made could just mean its blended here with imported additives from Exxon, Shell etc and many others and this is what you want.

Cheers for the reply.. I will stick with Mobil 1 but i heard holden get lower quallity mobil 1 in 44 gal drums not as good as the 5L bottles....
My service intervals as stated by Holden/HSV in my log books are 15k but they also have reccomended 7,500 k services in between them but they are not enforced by holden/hsv..
On paper it looks like they are happy for you to run around for 15k but would like to see you every 7.500k... makes me think they could not cover you if you dont see them every 7,500k instead of 15k ???

[6 shooter]

I'm currently discussing Motul on other forums, what are your experiences with it ??? Have you tried it in the commodore yet ??

Nah not in the commie could give it a go come to think of it but i normally chuck in 15w40 synthetic or semi synthetic and the level doesnt go down at all between changes.
cant really tell you on my bike though coz thats all ive bought so nothing to compare it with.