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Thread: cam to stall and diff

  1. #1
    eaton v8's Avatar
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    Default cam to stall and diff

    ok so what combo are people using and what sort of times are you getting?
    i have 6l mafless tune 216 216 at 112 a 3800 converter shop stall and 3.9 diff.
    im going to try to get to the next drags so i will put up my times then. i hope i get a low 12 high 11 if not im going to the bottle. if any one around cq is looking for a lsx tuner my mate is one of the best around by far pm me.
    Experience is a hard teacher. First you get the test, then you get the lesson.

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    GenReaper is offline Donating Member
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    Thats a baby cam, i wouldnt expect that to run too fast, you might be dissapointed, mid 12's ide say at best.
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    id say 12 flat ive seen people crack mid 12's without a cam with a 6l but yeah tiny cam

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    eaton v8's Avatar
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    maybe your right i never was after high hp but something that was fast on the street and thats what i got but that was the idea of this thred see what does what.the cam is more of a tow cam and i know tunes will differ as to how they react
    Experience is a hard teacher. First you get the test, then you get the lesson.

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    eaton v8's Avatar
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    at the time i wrote this i was just more thinking of 6l combos that do work and ones that don't but hey i'm flexible but keep it to the lsx . sometimes people spend heaps and don't seem to get value for money. ok they may have all the good bits money can buy in there but was it worth it if a combo that cost less keeps up or is within touching distance .
    Experience is a hard teacher. First you get the test, then you get the lesson.

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    eaton v8's Avatar
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    Well I got a 12.13 last night so I'm happy. The temp was about 28 deg and the humidity was in the 94% so in the cold it should go a 12 flat or high 11. Not bad for a tow cam.
    Experience is a hard teacher. First you get the test, then you get the lesson.

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    Nice job eaton seems like you proved soem people wrong
    Quote Originally Posted by Smidy
    How many kw would i need to beat vin diesil to the train lines?

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    Well done mate,you must have a good "complete" setup,something overlooked these days.

    Im sure you will run a 11

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  12. #12
    eaton v8's Avatar
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    the first run with the air temp at 30deg and 96 humity i got a 12.2. i hopped and said to my mate im guessing that was 13 for a first effort i was realy happy when he said what it was. the biggest thing is the tune has to be perfect and my mate is real good at doing them. it looks like the stall turned out to at least 4500 . i hope to sell an engine out of the shed this week then im buying a bottle as im still chasing my line in the sand which is a 11.2. i think i will get rid of the 355 stroker blower and t56 as well and buy a turbo kit.
    Last edited by eaton v8; 07-11-2010 at 10:36 PM.
    Experience is a hard teacher. First you get the test, then you get the lesson.

  13. #13
    eaton v8's Avatar
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    ok may be a slight change of plan i am still chaseing my line in the sand. After i found out that it is $1000 dollors a pot if you get nabed with nitrous so make that $8000 i had a rethink. so i have this big turbo in the shed i was going to put on. it will cost me around 6000 to get it on right and it be reliable. now that will get that line in the sand easy enouf but how long will the auto stand up to the pressure of boost up its butt autos i have seen always die easy. so thats another $ 3000ish for a build up so now that is $9000. and lets face it thats a lot of cash just to get a 11 flat when yes it woulde go into a 10 but then i carnt race it unless i get a cage and then its over kill.. so when i was talking to my mate who does all the work on this car from cams to tuning i think he talked me into chancing cams, springs, oil pump and get a fast manifold well the whole top end bar heads for about $4500 and that will get me to the line in the sand. after all we ran a 12.1 with a 216 cam so with a bigger cam and another good tune..........so then that a bit left over for a holiday. peoples thoughts
    Experience is a hard teacher. First you get the test, then you get the lesson.

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    GenReaper is offline Donating Member
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    Dont waste your money on a manifold they are not worth it, your choice but ide advise against it.
    Better off saving your cash going bigger cam and underdrive balancer if you have not already got one.
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    well i may try that as it only has try ys and twin 2.5 inch. 4 into 1 long pipes on it 3inch twins and a underdrive kit with a fast manifold should almost get me there. another question genreaper did the person get there car retuned after putting the manifold on? a lot of people dont and the say they dont work so they take them off or so i have been told.
    Experience is a hard teacher. First you get the test, then you get the lesson.

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    GenReaper is offline Donating Member
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    Yes, they all " more than 1 " have had retunes and were dissapointed for the vast money it cost.
    Ive even heard of them losing power too.
    Im making 600hp N/A with stock inlet

    Well if you got tri y piss them off first, go pacemaker 4 into 1 - 1@3/4 pipes 3 inch collector, open up the front of the cats to 3 inch and put 3 inch pipe from the collector to the front of the cats.
    Probably will need O2 sensor extension looms too.
    Wouldnt bother going twin 3 inch whole way, try what i said first save your money.

    Whack a bigger cam in and while your there put the underdrive balancer on it.
    Retune.
    Put front runners on the car as wide wheels have more drag and i bet it runs 11's easy.
    Biggest gain are extractors, cam, tune and diff gears and a good set of rear drag slicks at Mickey Thompsons.
    Moral of the story dont waste your money on a manifold its just quick easy money for whoever fits it IMO, bugger all gains to be made there.
    Last edited by GenReaper; 05-12-2010 at 10:04 PM.
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    eaton v8's Avatar
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    you ever used hi ratio roller rockers?the system i have is my biggest bottle neck. i think ill get the full xforce system with the 100 cell cats 1 3/4 4into 1 and twin 3 inch. 1800 for it so why not. ill get the under drive kit while im there[ 320ish] then a tune tuch up . i have the diff gears all ready and the 4300ish stall. at the moment im using 255 hossier drag radials. well the next thing is front runners where do you get them? i think ill push this cam as far as i can i got 12.1 on a hot day so im not far off. a cold day and im in the 11 as it is so a few other external mod and i should be at least mid to low 11 just where i want to be. anything else external??
    Experience is a hard teacher. First you get the test, then you get the lesson.

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    GenReaper is offline Donating Member
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    Me personaly i dont believe in high ratio rockers i believe in doing it propperly and getting a cam ground to suit the application with springs to match.
    Front runners are dear, most speed shops do sell them but even a stock commy rim with a narrower tyres saves on drag on a sticky track.
    Wide tyres on front kill ET and especialy MPH.
    If you got the diff gears as well you should do it easy with what you have in mind.
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    eaton v8's Avatar
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    I know what you are saying with the rockers i have the performance springs in there i have been told. but it can have it's advantages as well as in it is not as aggressive on the valve train. as in less aggressive ramp rate needed so it won't flog your lifters as hard. But when it comes time if and when I put another cam in a i do know it will be a bit more maths needed to get it right. It should adjust the cam to seem to be about 220 220 112
    Experience is a hard teacher. First you get the test, then you get the lesson.

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    put the bottle on it and disconnect it when not at the track. no need to have it operational on the street and then there is no fine so its a win win situation. a cold winters night with all the mods u already have and a 100 shot should get u close. if thats not enough then look at a bigger cam. that way the left over coin from the 355 sale can be used to beef up the auto before it lunches itself

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    eaton v8's Avatar
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    Ok I know cams get talked about a lot on here but one thing I am just learning is that there is different cam Lobe profiles. So an a slightly different note do you know what profile yours is? Ok gen I'm just going to bight the bullet and do a cam and underdrive then see if I have some cash for the pipes. I got to thinking why stuff around. The little cam did real well and suprised a lot of people. the cam my tuner has now picked out to suit the setup is going to be on xe lobes as this gives the top end longer life and is not as hard on the gear. This type of lobe helps to bring the power on earlyer and last longer than other types of lobe profiles and gives a smooth power delivery. This cam can make a vE trap at 118 so in a lighter vz we will see. The end goal is low 11s that the wife can still drive and still have ok fuel per liter I don't want a pig to drive or why have it.
    Experience is a hard teacher. First you get the test, then you get the lesson.

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    eaton v8's Avatar
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    Ok I have had my new cam and springs arrive from the states but just had a slight hick up. On the highway a few nights ago sitting in overdrive I killed 3 and drive in the auto so first things first I need to get a new box. So how well do these boxes hold up after getting tricked up? I have a 4l65e. Has anyone got a sure shift box in their car?
    Experience is a hard teacher. First you get the test, then you get the lesson.

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    Just get the 3rd and 4th clutches redone and youll be sweet, its a common problem with these boxes.

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    soop is offline Banned
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    Provided the shit hasn't gone right through the box and the drum isn't knackered.

    If it were me, I would be sloting a T56 in there. But thats me.

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    eaton v8's Avatar
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    I would love a t56 but the wife cannot drive a Manuel. I wish then I would still have the ute to play with
    Experience is a hard teacher. First you get the test, then you get the lesson.

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