So, as the thread title suggests, I'm looking into making a wiring harness - (modify'ing the standard loom).
What I'm not sure on is, is it as simple as running a wire from a set pin on the computer plug, to a sensor, then repeat 1000 times, etc..
If so, are the pin outs the same for the ECU in America as they are here? I assumed they were all the same, but have been told that there a some small differences in the two.
Does anyone have a diagram of the VZ LS1, fly by wire, ECU plug, and a list of sensors/inputs it needs?
Can you delete the BCM entirely? I understand I'll probably need a tune to disable VATS as well.
Plans are to run the computer inside the cab, under the dash, so the wiring will need to be lengthened, whilst that's being done, remove any unneeded wiring etc..
Not sure if this should be in the wiring section, or the LSx section because it directly relates to them. Sorry if its in the wrong section!
Umm, it might be of some use, it'd be better than what I have already, (stuff from o/s).
The fly by wire would be something I'd have to look into a bit further, but I'd assume the main engine accessories should be the same, if not very similar?
That'd be a great help if I could grab them off you, cheers Julian!
i just finished drawing up/writing out a pinout for the VZ loom if you want a copy of that let me know, couldnt find any info that was VZ specific so i just buzzed it all out and wrote it down.
Yeah for sure man, any extra info is gladly appreciated, that way I can compare the two to see if there are any differences between them, didn't happen to get the "Fly By Wire" part did you?
Here is a diagram I gave to a mate of mine to wire up my mates track car. It's in a R31 Skyline so speedo and tacho weren't connected. Basically got it running and made sure it started. Only issue he had with the VZ motor was the alternator. It has a different plug not a normal single power wire running to it. We just used an earlier alternator (VT-VY) to make it easier. We also changed it to cable throttle and used a VT loom. He now has a Monster tacho and aftermarket speedo working now.
Here ya go.
Click to make it bigger.
also this plug
the wires in this plug are
- Black/White (Earth)
- Light Green (Injector 1, passenger bank) 12v fused
- Dark Green (A/C plug) depends on your air con if you need this
- Red (Injector 2, Drivers side bank) 12v fused
- Orange (Pin 6 on TAC module (16 pin plug) 12v fused???
- Orange/Black (PCM 42 Blue)
- Brown (PCM 65 Green)
- Pink/Blue (Large round plug on Auto Trans) ?? 12v fused???
i still need to finish figuring out what exactly needs 12v ign and 12v constant, etc,
as far as the fly by wire part, as long as you salvaged the loom from pedal to the TAC module, there are not many other wires that go to the module externally, something i still need to finish looking up
Yeah it has a different plug. We ran a VT loom (for cable throttle) so we had to change the alternator as it was going run like a VT with a VZ engine. If we ran the VZ loom and kept the fly-by wire throttle then we probably would of gone with the VZ alternator.
note on the pin 33 wire that goes to the PCM connector blue, what i did was just get a 5 pin relay (the ones that have an 87a terminal), hooked up 12v feed to pin 30, the wire that goes to the pcm pin 33 goes to pin 87a, then use your brake switch to either feed 12v or earth the relay, each time you trigger the relay with a brake press being connected to the 87a terminal it will break the connection and switch to 87, you can feed to the other pin on the PCM which needs 12v on brake press, which is the orange wire above that goes to pin 6 of the TAC module, solves it with minimal wiring, just depends if your brake switch earths on contact or supplys 12v as to which way you wire 85 and 86
just waiting for my PCM to come back now, and finish my fuel system and a few other bits, daniel at chipmaster was the go for a mailorder tune, $400 mafless including removing all the vats and bits you dont need.
an Edit to the above also for future reference, dont hook the Orange wire (pin 6 of TAC plug) up to the 87 terminal of the relay, i found out after i was trying to get cruise working that this circuit needs to see the resistance of the brake light circuit to let cruise activate, so i joined that wire straight to the brake circuit wire and now cruise control works perfect.... (will be handy for yourself or someone else in the future)