Recent content by Anhevius

You know, that's something that's perplexed me since I've come to Australia. In the US, the same car has things rated at 10/15k miles, 50k miles, 100k miles....and here the numbers are the same, just with kilometres behind them instead of miles. As a prime example, in Florida, where it gets up...

Yep, all clean. Checked them both after work yesterday. Did the TB when I took it off for the plugs, and MAF looks good. And like I said, she's running right. No blips, surges, or dips. Throttle response is good, engine is clear throughout the range. Just at idle this shudder goes on that feels...

Afternoon everyone. It did it occasionally before the plugs changed, but not as much. Plugs were all in the same condition, no extra fouling on any. It is doing the same on both. Datalogger isn't showing any misfires or anything, and it's not surging, just vibrating randomly.

Hello again everyone! I have been having a lot of fun with my car. Alternator died and took the battery with it. New plugs (that was fun). So now, I have a new issue that's gotten worse. At park/drive idle, I have a VERY obvious vibration in the car, but not quite constant. It surges a bit...

Holding it until it starts turning is exactly what I do, which is about half a second to a second. Mine is dual fuel though, so not sure if it takes longer for your car to start spinning over (like if there's a delay while the gas system gets primed or whatnot)

Wouldn't be the TPS, OP has an entire bank of the engine going dead while the other is fine.

You said it yourself in your first post, it got really hot. If the plugs weren't good quality, or older, the heat probably warped the metal out of shape and you've lost solid ground.

Howdy everyone! Bit of a dumbnut question here. I want to swap from the default cloth covered seats that came in my Omega to something more comfortable, like out of a Calais. (If anyone has a good suggestion for a seat that's good for driving over an hour at a time over crap roads like South...

Sounds like you got a bit of a goofball. VTSS and MYVE are right though, VE Commodores have 'tip start'. You only have to tip the key into the start position for half a second, and then the ECU will maintain the start signal until the engine kicks over, it gets a fault, or a certain time frame...

If you have an electronic throttle (instead of a cable going from the pedal to the butterfly), you could have a bad wire causing a short at the ECU, which is killing signal to the coils. First thing to test is if spark is dying when that happens, and then if fuel is cutting out. Heck, you could...

Yea. Even if someone put a gun to my head, there is absolutely no way I would ever let those morons come near my car again. Plus the plugs weren't listed on the invoice from the work done, but the dealer swore they did them whole they were trying to find the issue.

Hey everyone! My Crapadore needs new plugs ( even though the dealer swears they put a set of new ones in it last year). What is the suggested pmug for the dual fuel model? Will the generic recommendations from the parts store work, or do I need to go hotter or colder? Thanks!

Well, considering I already told the dealership to stuff the warranty and never to contact me again as I can't trust them to do right by my car...I'm obviously not concerned about the warranty any more. I'm going to scrounge up enough cash to flush the entire transmission, get the torque...

I was thinking that Dex 6 would be a little thin, the 4L60 would need something with a higher density and sheer point, at least all the ones I'm familiar with. They were the most common in the older Silverados, and seemed to absolutely love a nice heavy fluid. I just figured they had done...

It was subcontracted out to another shop, and it has a 2 year warranty...but there's no way I would ever go back to them for anything. If I don't go the conversion route, I might try tearing into it to see the issue if servicing it doesn't fix the issue. Wouldn't be surprised if they recycled...