PaRaDoX's MA71 Manual Turbo Targa Supra

[f1tzy]

looking good mate

[PaRaDoX]

its getting there, ive gotta pull out all the intercooler piping and redo that should be cutting up to 1-2M out thanks to pub

[PaRaDoX]

the cast manifold looks shocking in photo's... got most of the motor back together now should be done maybe tommorrow depends how bothered i can be this week

maybe ill make a nice shinny heatshield out of that nasa grade stuff to cover my practical but ugly turbo manifold... ill fit a diffrent manifold with a new turbo

[PaRaDoX]

been out cleaning parts and working out whats left to fit, so far just the intake manifold and wiring loom cleaned up the intake runners and fitted fuel rail...pub's modifying the manifold for me atm too so with any luck give it 2-3 weeks and ill drop the block in!

[Pub247]

your manifold getting bead blasted atm paradox ill pick it up tomorrow... well today i suppose and get started on it this weekend

[PaRaDoX]

awesome

[Troy5L]

engine looks very nice and shiney. how much kw/hp u looking at gaining now that the engine has been rebuilt?

and y dont u chuck a bigger turbo on it now that the engine is out, would be much easier when the engine outs the car, the asians left little room in the engine bay, hence there small hands lol

[PaRaDoX]

Thank you,

at the moment i will be running stock boost (5-6psi) should produce 150-170rwkw don't really know!

Several reasons im not starting with a bigger turbo,
1) engines not tuned for it so want to run in on stock turbo
2) yep would be easier with engine out but its not a daily, and i own a crane, wont take me longer than a hour to remove when i want to do a upgrade.
3) the ct26 isn't a tiny ass turbo like the T3, it should beable to supply 15psi without blowing too much hot air.... its good for about 220-250rwkw...

the supra isn't as tiny as most other jap cars, everything's well laid out and my opinion is, if you cant get your tools in an engine bay, you don't have the right tools, just means most of this car is done with ring spanners rather than a socket wrench..

ive got a clear path for this car anyway

now ----> rebuild motor run 10psi
soon ---> finish run in, crank boost to 10-12psi.. ENJOY (free)
later ----> fit some wheels
after that ---> fit haltech and tune for 15psi
to finish it up ---> fit big ass turbo and crank boost to 16-18psi

[PaRaDoX]

picked up my replacement button clutch today (my old one was oil soaked due to a leak at the rear of the motor) rather than pull the box out in another few thousand k's i'm replacing it now... new spigot as well and i also rebuilt the slave cylinder for the clutch

i'm just working the wiring loom out now, and waiting on the manifold then ill drop it in from there i've got to redo all the intercooler piping put fluids in it and connect everything, all in all could have the motor back in the car within 1-2 weeks wont be moving for a few more weeks. no rush anyway

EDIT: popped the spigot out with the old grease trick (works a charm)
fitted the clutch, took it off the stand the motors ready to go back in the car, i can fit the manifold when its back in the car,

Next weekend i will fit the motor (was going to do it this weekend but realised i left a water hard line off and had to remove the turbo to fit it, but that's all fixed now

pub's been doing some good work on my manifold

[PaRaDoX]

got bored and dropped the motor in...

[Morton]

Man... so many accessories. I hope you have fun fitting all your hoses and wires

*runs*

[PaRaDoX]

Man... so many accessories. I hope you have fun fitting all your hoses and wires

*runs*

actually the looms already fitted, and all the hard hoses are too, its a matter of about 4-5 hoses and plugging in the looms

bolting the bonnet back up will be the fun part might need to get a mate to help.

i dropped the engine crane on my foot when moving it (100kg??)
i think i broke my big toe oh well a worth while price to pay for fitting a motor

nothings bolted in yet, the trans is supported by a jack but its in the right spot, this weekend ill sort out all the little things and MAYBE start her for the first time but we'll see how things go.


i decided not to fit the manifold straight up, as i dont want to change too many things on the first crank, im going to start it stock, run it in for 500km then fit the manifold rather than scratching my head wondering why it wont start or run properly..

just need to make my last run to repco to buy the following
6m oil cooler lines
3m heater hose
6x spark plugs
Manual trans fluid
P/S Fluid
Brake Fluid
2x Engine oil
Oil filter (for first heat cycle change)

[Wagon_Wheel]

Very nice dude, bet you cant wait.!!

[Pub247]

i didnt even realise you put a progress shot up para. I got a few more pics for you i'll send you later. in the meantime here's a bit of a teaser for everyone.

Note the hectic turbo merge pipe in the second pic

[PaRaDoX]

its looking good pub

the other side is looking good from the other pics too, the stock flange has been cut off and welded over, cant wait to see the finished product !

EDIT: Went out and bought most of the stuff i need, most of the stuff is hooked up but there is still alot of work that needs to be done, its nearly beer o'clock anyway so depending how hung over i get tommorrow i may give it a first crank to check oil pressure... (with no plugs) but to be honost i don't care if i get it started this w/e

ADDITIONAL: didn't get it to a point where i could start it spent too much time drinking/hungover :P, all that's left is
fit dump pipe
full up gearbox fluid
connect heater core hoses
plug in ecu
charge battery
put interior back together

it'll get done when it gets done

[PaRaDoX]

Started it, fired right up BUT after a few seconds developed a rattle, cars got oil pressure.. any idea's what it could be? im thinking it could be the timing cover, dosn't sound serious... im going to drop the belts and start it again soon see if it still makes the noise...

YouTube - Rebuilt 7mgte first start rattle...

[PaRaDoX]

dropped belts, noise is gone, it was the p/s needed a bleed, all done now cars good first drive tomorrow need to install the dash now and im done.

[delcowizzid]

i was gonna say it sounded like oil pressure surge from somewhere lots of air coming out or the pressure realease popping open it sounded like

[PaRaDoX]

i was gonna say it sounded like oil pressure surge from somewhere lots of air coming out or the pressure realease popping open it sounded like

yeah, the supra's run a funny power steering system (progressive rate) you can steer it with a pinky finger on a momo wheel thats absolutely tiny. (factory)

the return hose is fairly high in the reserve tank, and because it runs a p/s cooler it consumed a large amount of fluid

i was just paranoid as it was a first start, the car has tons more oil pressure than it did before, the bearings must have had fair clearances...! uploading a new vid now, take 2..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmn31EXhZig


took it for a good drive this weekend racked up a few k's did the first oil change

its been flawless except for a bit of air in the clutch lines, seems when it gets warm the air is less dense and compresses more? meaning i had to drive home with changing gears basically without disengaging the clutch fully, gotta figure out how to bleed the air out (most likely stuck behind the slave piston as i rebuilt the slave cylinder)

there is no leaks of clutch fluid, apart from what the cars running beautiful, used a thicker gearbox fluid and it seems to have cured my lazy synchro issue for now. (didn't want to go from 1st to 2nd easily, made me miss 2nd a few times)

I bypassed the boost controller for now and it feels strong @ 5.8psi (stock)

[PaRaDoX]

well i get my tax back soon so ill be picking up a haltech e6x (short loom)

im making my own plug in adapter with some fat plugs so i can just unplug the haltech and swap back to stock if needed, ie drive it to the dyno on stock tune, plug in haltech when i get there and save $150 on a tow truck

in the next month ill be also fitting a 3" dump, highflow cat front facing manifold and new intercooler piping. i plan to run 15psi when i get it tuned, should make some good power nothing crazy but alot better than stock

[Wagon_Wheel]

Great to hear man, your smile must be fairly large

[PaRaDoX]

Great to hear man, your smile must be fairly large

haha yeah it is, im stoked there was no big issues, as expected teething issues but yeah

im back to stock power now anyway so its not super exciting, i cant wait to get it tuned then it'll be pumping some power

[PaRaDoX]

well got some good petrol in it tonight (bp ultimate) and given the dense air it was much happier, still babying it round cant wait till i can open it up, in standard form i have a feeling it will be pretty quick. over all i dont think its quick before 3rd gear which is round 100km/h.

Finally found a trans mount for my car that wasnt $250 still has to come from the states but much cheaper than toyota, from here i want to change the uni join and i should have a clunk free drivetrain,

[PaRaDoX]

Well the car goes like absolute clappers, the dump is restrictive so i loose boost as revs increase (boost drops as CFM cannot increase anymore)
the turbo spools instantly, i have decided the ecu MUST go now. on a hard shift the car will hit "boost cut" which cuts all load and in a manual is described as hitting a brick wall. the ecu refrences a few readings for example, cfm/load vs rpm vs absolute pressure (my car is fitted with a afm+map sensor)

this means you'll be going strong into 2nd, say merging into a freeway and dont want to mess round taking 2-3 seconds to shift gears like people that drive 4wd's...
it will cut all power and shunt you. till you back off and try again. this is supposed to stop leaning out of the AFR mixture but occours at %60 duty cycle on the injectors!!! (440cc stock)

so in the works to cure my exhaust flow problems ill be fitting a 3" dump and cat, and a haltech e6x dyno tuned, i will be raising the boost at this point as well to a safe point, (15psi i hope) 15psi should sit round %85 duty cycle for the injectors and 2-3 psi from the limit of the turbo charger. after this ill require a larger turbo and bigger injectors. results vary on power for this boost so i cant comment on how much power it will make but hopefully it should be quick.


but some bad news found a large leak,

got under the car to check where it was coming from, it wasn't from the engine,

the gearbox is spewing fluid from the input shaft seal, so i've pulled it off the road for now and ill rip the box out next weekend, the seal must have been damaged, not fitted properly or defective... oh well atleast by the time its back on the road ill have a haltech for it and wired up

[PaRaDoX]

here is a quick video of me entering the freeway, before having to merge
shifting round 4800rpm and not at WOT


Notice the boost drop in the upper rpm range drops to 5.2psi (actuator is set at 5.8psi)

(blue gauge is boost) also far left green gauge is oil pressure, the gauge inbetween that and the picture of the car is boost pressure in metric, the picture of the car flashes when somethings broken, gives you a basic idea of whats not working and displays the suspension settings red on the dash is 7000rpm..