hahahah thats gold!
yaay got my pistons, engine builder says 20thou IS fine, but he's waiting till he gets the pistons to bore the block.
also my block is fine not cracked (yay, it ran hot a few times)
im going Arp conrod bolts and Arp Main bolts.
blocks getting sprayed dark grey too
so far the bottom end alone has costed $2500~
add in a new headgasket ($300 cometic)
full gasket kit $100
bits and peices + fluids $200
brings it up to $3000..
then im starting on the head!, i might redeck it or atleast check its flat first, fit new valve stem seals and new valve guides if needed, and ill be reshimming it
clean the valves, ill also port match it altho toyota's are pretty good
and i might do some polishing on the exhaust, and i may sharpen the edges on the valve divider, but it depends how bored i get.
im hoping to get away with round $3500-4000 for this entire build but atleast ill have know i did it without cutting corners... (although i didnt go forged the std bottom ends are good for tons more power than i want to push, pistons are oil cooled with oil squirters so they hold up much better and dont get so hot)
nice mate, just had a good read through.
Im not sure if your going to be able to push 400kw of it as easy as you think (thats a sh!t load of power, lol) but i rekcon 350 shouldnt be to hard. Bigger turbo and as you said, the jap motors can handle brutal punishment and still go hard day after day.
Good luck, keap us posted.
BA MKII MANUAL XR6T
450+ RWHP, 960 Nm, 12.9 @ 114MP/H [Street Tyres]
yeah, handeling 400rwkw is one thing, making it is another...
all in all id be stoked with 200.... anything over thats a bonus...
and i think 280~ is my aim... after then its more about how you put it down rather than making the power,
but yeah id be happy with 170-180 @ 10psi before it gets tuned (should be doable)
well someone attempted to steal my supra last night... jokes on them, it has no motor...
still not happy....
thats no good man but lol at them, woulda been funny to see their face of they popped the bonnet and nothing was there
"A life lived in fear is a life half lived"
bonnet dosnt pop atm, its got no struts, theres no shifter in the car either and the trans and head are in the boot :P
how long till the engines back anyway, you must be hanging to drive it again, also probably a good time atm to really upgrade the security system
"A life lived in fear is a life half lived"
they'res no wiring loom in the car and batterys sitting in the boot. i reckon 2 weeks till i get the bottom end back, and maybe another week after that ill get the head back, then i need to order a cometic, just waiting on funds, went for a new better paying job aswell last week, so see how that works out too!
yaay looks like i might pick my motor up in just over a week and i just got a big fat payrise soo more progress should happen soon![]()
ok, dropped my head off to the engine builders and my pistons, rings, bearings flywheel and pressure plate.
they reckon 1-2 weeks till i can pick it up, in the meantime ordering a new cometic mls headgasket and arp studs... then ill pack it all back together, fit the motor and run it in... when run in ill pull the ecu out, fit a haltech and tow to a tuner and get it setup for 15psi
UPDATE: Motors comming along nicely, still havnt picked it up yet however one of the old piston rings was seized in the piston, no wonder it wouldn't seal properly!
Last edited by PaRaDoX; 17-04-2009 at 10:45 AM.
hey paradox doing a head gasket on my mates 7m-gte just wondering where the timing points are suppose to line up
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=EM&P=23
first set the crank to tdc (0 on the timing marks)
the timing points are supposed to match the grooves in the timing case backing (bolts onto the head directly, they'res 2 grooves you need to loosen the tensioner first, the bastard thing is when the tensioner snaps back into place it can put your timing out good thing its a non interference motor so you wont smash a valve on the piston
are you using a stock headgasket? or metal, did you deck the head? these heads have a tendency to go funny, i hope your ditching the stock headbolts!
ps have fun with the vac lines...
haha damn prolly going the metal gasket car has been licenced for the last 3 years it has had the blown head gasket. i read sumthing to stop the common gasket failure was to tighten the head bolts more than standard torque settings. when we took off the coil pack and the leads the bores for the spark plugs were full of water. rats had moved in and their piss has make all the ally inside look like shit. also got to rebuild the turbo . its not a rush job just take our time kinda job. we downloaded the pdf last night for the car but its always better to talk to the champ does has done it before
and yikes looks like the **** munches that last worked on it didnt time it right either. if we put it on top dead center i dought the pulley marking will line up like that
hahah bugger, its more difficult to work on than a commodore that's for sure.
yeah factory torque is 50lb/ft, i used 80lb/ft on my new bolts, the only issue with stock bolts is they use a allen key pattern and unless you get the right tools you cant torque them properly.
i wouldn't go metal headgasket unless you intend on resurfacing everything within a RA of 15. including the block which cant be done with the pistons in, metal headgaskets are very difficult to seal. water gets trapped in the intake valley all the time, they're are allen key bolts at the bottom that seal the water jackets, check that they're not leaking. is there water in the oil?
dunno if there is water in the oil but the cooling system was getting pressurized. he hit 270km/hr when it cooked itself . got all the tools, god thing about being a diesel fitter and loving mr snap on
cooling system could be getting pressurized for another reason, remove thermostat first, see if it still overheats, i would say the headgaskets blown but try that first and pull the rocker cover off and have a look for headgasket goo.
better yet, go get your self a hydro carbon test, it costs about $20 and will let you know if combustion gasses are in the coolant. thats what i did to find out something wasnt sealing my motor properly
trying to do it on the cheap if its more damaged then we thought we will wreck it. one less supra gt on the road. pity its black also
where abouts are you? let me know if you wreck it im after a non brown, red or blue interior (after grey or dark grey)
do hydrocarbons first unless its all apart,
if its all apart pull the head off, take a look take some photos and email them to me.
on other news i pick my bottom end up next week,
i decided against cams in the head, im going to fit heavier valve springs and its getting fully checked over, reshimmed, 3 angle valve job and some other googies, i want the motor to be %100 by the time i put it back together and 57trim or 62trim my ct26 so i can sneak in 18-20 psi out of it ill have to compare compressor maps, first things first im replacing a hell of alot on the car, get it running again, then ill rip the ecu out get it tuned for 15psi, check it all, then work out what i need for more boost.
Gather round boys and girls, its show and tell time...
Got my bottom end back today, New everything, heads still in the machine shop and im waiting on a headgasket, clutch disc, spigot bearing (it was new 1000k's ago but they ****ed it when they balanced the driveline), transmission mount, valve springs, timing belt and timing belt tensioner
the blocks been painted a dark grey, im in the process of installing new seals and peicing it back together ready to drop in, i estimate 1 month before im in a position to install the motor, no rush really. atm its sitting wrapped up inabout a roll of glad wrap (the stuff works wonders!)
im happy with the deck surface, its a mirror finish and i can't find a single scratch on it they'res a few marks near the water jackets from erosion but they're no where near the bores.
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Last edited by PaRaDoX; 08-05-2009 at 01:25 PM.