well, theres now no carpet in the bmw. all gone, along with the sound deadener off the floor, for a nice weight saving of about 17kg. still have to do sound deadener under backseat, but that wil get done sometime.
just brushed some chassis black on the floor, after cleaning up some of the left over deadener. itll do, looks like theres carpet or something from the outside. will be getting some spaghetti tube for the battery cable and neatening all that up though.
noise isnt too bad, took it for a quick squirt earlier, can hear every stone hit the floor now, but otherwise, its a tad noisier. will see what its like on the highway to work, thatll be the decider.
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Now THAT's more like itI love it!!!
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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well, got some more goodies today.
got my lc-1 wideband afr meter, so gotta weld in the bung for that.
my wheel center caps turned up from iblown, along with my strut brace plates.
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looks good man, damn iblown does an awesome job, those centre caps are almost too good to go on.
have you had a chance to play with the sensor?
Very impressive hakhawk. It's quite the little beast isn't it lol?
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have you driven the non deadner BMW in the rain yet, you will loooove it, pshhhhhhhhhhhh..............pshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhph sssssssssssPHSSSSSSSSSpHSsssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssshhhhhhhhh hhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
. Magic stuff
not in heavy rain yet, and not overly fussed, having the semi slicks on and allspeaking of rain, its raining again today. hopefully get these control arms swapped this weekend, and maybe make a start on my strut brace
well, looks like we're swapping diff and subframe, the driveshaft bolts are different sizes, so im just chucking the whole diff in from the red car, which in turn means im sticking the subframe in too, coz its less stuff to undo!! then i can drag whole subframe down to red car and bolt straight up.
i started doing the strut brace today while dad tackled removing the old control arm bushes(which were in really good nick, just not adjustable)
gotta elongate the bolt holes some more, so i can take it off without jacking the car up, and weld the drivers side, then paint it. i'll be making it a 3 point back to the firewall, but looks like i have to take the heaterbox out/loosen it off to get a plate in the inside of the firewall.
found a puddle in the drivers floor, so have to find that leak and block it, and ive got rust spots coming through the front corners of the doorslooks like ill have to have another go at that again.
first stage of strut brace painted and on the car. have to weld a plate to the firewall to bolt to for the rest of the strut brace.
diff and control arms half done, putting new diff oil in, old stuff is nice and thick. looks like this diff has been rebuilt at some stage though, which is good.
lubed up my blower fan, coz its been making awful noises.
control arms and diff are in, new handbrake cables mostly adjusted, discs on, calipers on, but alas. im missing a set of pads, pins and anti rattle clip from one caliper.
we have a feeling when we took the rear end off the silver bmw, they were already missing. i never bothered to get replacement ones because i was swapping calipers anyway.
because im not swapping the whole brake setup yet, ive dodgied up some pins, should get away without the clip, and will be ordering pads tomorrow.
long weekends ftw!!
today we chucked the ass end back in the red one, so i can piss it off. took the fuel tanks out, gonna clean them and stick em in this car. theyre a slightly different design, lighter, and will be fresh.
converted the ignition from points to electric today, idles heaps smoother, picks up better on the road. the old dizzy is sloppy as hell
old setup was points inside the dizzy and a round coil. new setup uses a sensor in the dizzy, ignition module and a different coil. i just have to get an efi lead with smaller boots on it.
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well, tank swap failed. turns out the tanks are joined in a totally different place, and as such, the rear mounts are different. too different to bother modifying.
so, cleaning out the old tank, stripped the sound deadener off it, and will put that back in tomorrow.
so todays focused on beefing up the strut brace some more. making the points to the firewall, which meant adding some more braces to clear the dizzy.
will get some pics later.
Brace is looking fantastic![]()
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The 1972 HQ Kingswood
The 1989 VN Turbo Rally Project
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well, got some of the brace done today, angles are fun!!
got the tank back in, and had a quick play with the needles in the carbs. fitted doubled up mesh this time, see how that lasts. i think i might need some strong stainless mesh as a support for the fine stuff.
in other news, steering is gonna rock soon!! 2.5 turns lock to lock. only catch is i have to rebuild the rack, being a kit, i only get the rack and pinion gears and some new brass bushes.
(pic stolen from another bmw dude who just got one, mines on its way)
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not much progress during the week, apart from removing the second filter layer i had in, coz it was restricting the intake, especially on startup. moving the needles in one notch seems to have made it come alive some more, and i think using less fuel.
today, being a lazy one, i finally put my good wheels back on, and decided to swap the speedos, so i can get odometer back. i pulled it apart and glued a gear hoping that would fix it... it didnt, so ill drop a different speedo in tomorrow.
but while the cluster was apart, i couldnt help myself, and decided to install my shift light(was leaving it for the sr20 cluster).
works good, has a preshift and shift points, so now i need not concentrate on trying to spot what rpm im at with the steering wheel in the way.
pics time
inside of cluster, hotglue is win. i unsoldered the led board off the front of the shiftlight and glued it and the lens to the cluster after drilling a hole. routed a cable to outside the cluster, and soldered it to rest of the shiftlight. cable tied shiftlight up in centre console area, easy to get to, but cant be seen.
in the car, looks almost factory, bit offset(oops). must remember to clean the left over black plastic dust out tomorrow.
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yeh ok, so i got a tad bored. worked out why the odometer stops working though, so i can hopefully fix the one in the car. theres the ever popular plastic gear that breaks, but i was able to plastic weld it so its tight on the shaft again, and theres a alloy gear that slowly wears and spins on the shaft, rip it out, light tap with a hammer to tighten the hole, push it back on, voila!!
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Nice... I think I've fixed my odometer a good 4 times... but I've just reach the "f@ck it, I don't care anyone" point.lol