10second quarter for under 5-10grand................hopefully
Hey guys, been a while since I've been seen around the traps.
I sold off the wagon and the VX and I ended up buying the missus a 2006 AWD Territory. As well as buying myself a 2004 XR6 turbo (w/ 480rwhp)
And I have an XH XR6 ute as a daily - although it's a bit tired at the moment as the spider gears in the diff carrier have 'bound-up', so I need to get that apart and fix it before it goes any further!
As you can see, I no longer owned a road-going Holden. However I still have my VN shell that I was going to build up as a drag-car. So I decided to dig it out of retirement and have another crack at it, only this time I would stick to a tight budget - using easy to get/manufacture parts and see how far it could get me.
So without further ado (sp?), here is "Project101, revisited"
This is what it looked like when I put it away:
Bought these for it yesterday:
All the above parts were chosen for a few reasons, but mostly because they are in-expensive and easy to replace.
Plans are to run a standard stroke rebuilt series-II V6, with a deleted balance shaft, built heads, 42lb Bosch/Lucas injectors, 3" exhaust, log manifolds, and a custom ground cam.
Gearbox will be a shift-kitted TH700, and for a diff I am going to run a mini-spooled BW78. These were both also chosen for the ability to find replacements rather easily.
I already have at home a 28spline, 4pinion mini-spool, and some 3.73 diff gears.
Unsure as to what sort/size of stall converter to run just yet.
As you can see there is a bit of work in the old girl (understatement of the decade!), and some of my mates have taken just about every part of the car that they could.
However I am only in need of some door trims, all the glass, and a dash-pad (as I will be running a sheet-metal facia).
I just won a pair of drag-buckets with foam covers and harnesses on ebay to - and they are brand-new (pretty good score for $300).
I also have at home the boss kit, steering wheel, shift light, oil pressure, oil temp and water temp gauges.
Unsure as to what sort of ECU to run in it yet. Anyone have any suggestions on this? Could one of the boys do up a decent-ish mail order tune provided I gave them all the right specs?
I am also going to seam-weld the chassis, and fit it with a decent cage (I'll get a local bloke with a fair-bit of chassis experience to bend and notch the tubes and I'll weld it in).
Also need to look into brakes and suspension.
GSL still do brake upgrades for these?
What's the new-hotness in old girl suspension? I got quoted $1750 for a set of coil-overs, however I think some decent shocks/springs/ and rollbars would do the job just fine. (Maybe even some adjustable strut tops?)
So, that's it for today. Lemme know what you think, and any opinions you guys have on brakes/suspension and stall converters.
Cheers,
Steve.
Good luck with the 10's on that budget....getting quick for a budget car.
Will be interesting to see how far you get.
Im watching with keen interest. Im going for under 12's for under $3000 at the moment
A couple of blokes on another forum I'm a member of have run a 12.4 @ 104ish MPH
Total cost of the car is a touch over $850....... including purchase price.
It's a series-I VN commodore, auto with diff gears, a stripped interior and a shot of NOS.
That's bloody awesome value for money.
I don't see why I can't run a 10 for the money I'm spending.
The car will be lucky if it'd weigh 1100kg's. There is nothing in it.
Going to fully re-wire it with the bare essentials (lights, wipers,horn) required.
The interior consists of some custom, lightweight door trims, a cage, a dash, and a couple of poly race seats.
I will try to run 8" wide rear wheels (even if that means I have to run a VL BW78 housing).
The biggest hurdle I have is that I have to get, or hire a welder - and that also comes out of the budget.
Definitely achievable. Theres a guy on another forum that ran mid-10's in a VP for 9 grand from a turbo V6 with a stock bottom end. Good luck to you mate, should be interesting to see what sort of bang for buck you get. What forced induction are you planning on running?
Yeah I think it'll be fun to see what I can get out of it.Originally Posted by monkeys437
Running a P-trim T04B (as can be seen in one of my images above). 2bar map sensor, so I'm limited to 15lb boost.
The question about forced ind. must have sounded stupid if there's a picture of the turbo right there, unfortunately most pics don't show up on my work computer lol
Lol, nah that's cool man. I kinda figured that might be the case. Hopefully all the bits will start to turn up tomorrow.
Gotta fix my ute and get it out of the way, and then the fun can begin.
Have to get a hold of a mig and seam weld the chassis, plus fix/weld up any little holes, etc that are no longer required.
Thought I might block off the boot to (add a rear firewall) - in case I ever end up running nitrous.
I will also be 'boxing' up the upper & ower control arms - every little bit will help to get it off the line straight and true (and without breaking anything!)
But first I have to get this bloody diff carrier apart, replace everything in it, put the arse-end back together, install the new inlet manifold, exhaust, and supercharger on the ute - so I can get it out of the way.
I'm starting to think I'm addicted to boost, lol.
480rwhp XR6 Turbo
Powerdyne blown 4ltr XH XR6 ute &
(hopefully) 10second turbo V6 Commodore.
I will update when I get some more bits and pieces. Might try and get a side by side comparison of the GT35/40 on the XR6 and the T04B that's coming.
For an exhaust I was thinking of running:
Steampipe log manifolds
3" mandrel bent mild steel from turbo back
(should I run a cat?)
And I have a stainless 'turbo' muffler, which is 3" in with a 4" droopy tip. (dumped before the diff).
Pretty simple, should work and be about right in sizing yeah?
Donating Member
Pretty cool stuff. One question but, and its probably a stupid one but i'll ask it anyway.....are ya gonna register this beast for the road? If not then theres a lot of interior stuff, like the dash pad that you could leave out and save some weight.
Cheers
OD
No way!
Strip weapon only.
Having said that, I much prefer the look or having at least a dash pad in the car - not a big fan of (complete) sheetmetal dash boards.
Bloody shattered. Missed out on a pair of 5ltr commodores on Facebook tonight.
A VP 5ltr, and a 5ltr VN Calis. Bloke wanted $350, and $250 respectively for them. I would of bought both of them for that!
I am so bloody shattered right now
Donating Member
Damn that is silly money, your 10 secs would be a shoe in with one of those with a little boost. But yeah, if you're gunning for speed then you should seriously look at what you can take off the car. Weld the rear doors closed and remove the mechanisms, replace the side glass with Lexen, don't worry about wiper motors and door trims. Maybe even make up a fibreglass dash using the old one as a mould. All cheap to do but a bit of stuffing about.
Remove as much weight as you can so the power is used to push you down that strip
Stuff you already know i'm sure but i'm just having my 2 cents worth! Good luck with it, i'll be keeping an eye on this thread.
Getting out of the hole is the biggest problem. The best way to increase your ET is to get out of the hole quick.
My XR6T should run low 12's, if it was an auto it would. But as it stands the manual BA XR6T doesn't make boost while the clutch is depressed. So you can't spool it up on the line.
As a result, my 60ft times ALWAYS start with a 2.**
For street meets you have to run door trims (and other trim below the shoulder - except carpet, etc).
The only window that has to work is the driver's. I can rig the other windows to stay in place. Going to try to get lexcen windows - but I think that might be a bit costly.
My main concern, and the focus of my attention with this build is to get as much traction as I can with a near-on stock suspension set-up.
The rear end will consist of:
Boxed in upper & lower control arms
KYB shocks & Kings springs
Whiteline adjustable panhard bar
Whiteline swaybar
Nolathane bushes
And hopefully 275 rear tyres.
At this point in time I am still undecided as to what motor to run.
I wouldn't mind runnning an Ecotec - as the plenum and the standardised port spacings would aid me in getting the most out of the big six.
A mate from work is also building a turbo V6 (Ecotec). He is using a T70, and his is in a Gemini sedan.
Last edited by neet_wagon; 02-06-2011 at 08:38 AM.
can the door trim be made of 1mm alloy or does it have to be a factory job ? why not look at perspex for the windows.
ƃuoɹʍ ʇsnɾ sı sıɥʇ
You can fit a 275 tyre under the rear no probs
While you're looking into VL bits, check out some of the suspension setups those guys are running - many of them well into the 10's on very basic suspension setups (sticky tyres, stock springs all round, stuffed shocks in the rear, removed swaybars, 90/10's in the front.. and ~1.5-1.6 60' times!)
Thanks for the info mate.
I was definately thinking about the VL housing - just don't want to pay through the nose for one!
I will most probably be running some form of lightweight doortrims - 1mm ally would look pretty trick too.
You can fit a 275 tyre under the rear no probs
While you're looking into VL bits, check out some of the suspension setups those guys are running - many of them well into the 10's on very basic suspension setups (sticky tyres, stock springs all round, stuffed shocks in the rear, removed swaybars, 90/10's in the front.. and ~1.5-1.6 60' times!)
ƃuoɹʍ ʇsnɾ sı sıɥʇ
The only expensive part of the vl diff setup is the axles. - you can put your 4 spline minispool setup into any old VL N/A 6 cyl housing..
I have it on good authority, though, that if you're "crafty" enough - you can get away with swapping and cutting down some VN 28 spline axles. - pm "cracker" on this forum. IIRC he's done it with good results
That is good to know.
Thanks mate. Don't know why I ever left this place! (Probably because I bought a ford......)
ƃuoɹʍ ʇsnɾ sı sıɥʇ
Additionally - delcowizzid would be the right person to annoy regarding using the standard ECU for your purposes, what boost you'll be able to run, etc....
You may also want to look at adjustable upper control arms so you can tune in your pinion angle.
Donating Member
Yup what VT said, done a little drag racing in my younger days, pinnion angle is important, forget the sway bars unless you're gonna go round corners fast? And a set of 90/10 front shocks is also a good idea as it will help with weight transfer. Perspex is a great cheap way rather than lexcen but it will shatter rather than bend heaps first like lexcen in does, you may have to check rules first.
I was thinking a big front sway bar would help to keep the front straight and true down the track?
Adjustable upper control arms sound like a winner. I might have to look into those. Thanks.
Anyone know what size (dia.) "long" wheel studs suit a VN commodore?
They have to be 3" (?) long, and *should be fitted to cars that run faster than 11.99
Something else arrived for this today: (they are NEW, they have just been sitting in a shed for a couple of years - hence the dust)
Also scored a full sheet (2400x1200) of 5mm alloy plate from work - for nothing. That'll help to make my dash, etc.
Bought a heap of buttweld piping off ebay too. Gonna make up my own log manifolds - as soon as someone sells me an ecotec!
Then there will have to be a bit of saving while I rebuild the motor, throw a heap of ARP gear at it, and get a MACE reverse plenum.
Looking at getting an alloy big radiator for this too. Anynoe bought a decent (cheap) one - I tried looking on ebay, but they all appeared to be the standard width?
If anything, I would piss the front swaybar off and run a small one at the back.
If you are going to have some power and achieve traction, the less resistance you have to lift at the front, leaves more weight to be transferred over the rear.
My 2 cents.
Keep your costs down and run a stock radiator. Will do the job.
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