what type of thinner do i use for 2 pac paint and also, is there a certain kind of primer/undercoat i should be using eg, 2 pac primer?
Most certainly you should use 2pac primers and thinners, Every thing you need to know is written on the tin. Also difference between base coats and solid colors. There is different speed thinners and hardeners so do your research because it is expensive.
hey mate my best mate has his own paint and pannel shop, need to know anything just send me a message, 2pac primers are very different to the acrilic ones, takes 24 min to dry, has to sit and set hard, lot of rubbing back to do with it aswel.
which paint is which??
sorry its a little off the subject but i was always under the assumption that acrilic was sprayed on the had to be buffed flat out where as 2pac was sprayed on almost dry and is much hard, why they use the spray booths..
any idea on price etc?? per litre and if there harder to put on etc..... or just a quote say for a commodore
pearls? (say black with purple pearl, if possible) so it would look dark purple in light
candy colours? (candy apple (22inch) vl turbo im sure everybody has seen)
holden ve green?
what type of paint is better? advantages and disadvantages.
I CANT WALK ON WATER BUT I CAN STUMBLE ON ALCOHOL
looking at the time stamps on this thread its OLD....but anyways......
(this is in simple terms BTY)
acrylic's...and enamels......(single pack type) don't use an activator (hardener) for them to go off. The evaporation of the solvent (which can be water.....hence water based paints) is what enables the paint to harden.....thats why the application of heat speeds up the process. The faster the solvent is removed from the paint the faster it drys....basically.
2 Pack paints harden with the addition of an activator.....its a chemical reaction that causes the paint to 'harden'. Ususally isocyanate based and EXTREMELY toxic...hence the use of booths and breathing gear etc.
There are MANY MANY different types of paint all slightly different according to many different application methods, and protective/ decorative reasons etc and different manurfacturers.
Usually it is best to stick to one 'system' when applying paints as different manurfacturers use different chemicals and this can cause problems when paints are mixed.....even when 'dry'.
Then there is Pearls, metallic's, candys etc. These all require different methods to apply....be it base coats....pearls...and clears....or getting the metallic to lay down. eg: the painting of CHROME paint requires a BLACK base coat.......pearls require a base coat that enables the pearl to reach its full colour...and then only after applying a clear coat....white pearl...white base coat.....
Some paints of a 'straight' colour (or pigment) require a base colour to bring out the full colour....eg: some yellow top coats need a mustard base coat to ensure the finished result is even and the correct shade.
Some paints when sprayed are actually MATT in finish and require the clear coat to bring out a full gloss finish. Others although 'glossy' when sprayed can be made to look even better with a coat or two of clear.
As for price...depends of the paint. Chrome paint that my partners bro in law uses to paint mags with costs $400 for 200mls...not including base coats etc.
Aerospace paint I use can cost from $300-$400 for a kit, upto $1000....depending on what its used for.....
The addition of a pearl...or a metallic can up the price from a straight colour as they ca require extra work and more than one coat of paint.
Typical repair I just did on a motorbike fairing.....after plastic repair....minor bog to smooth...primer to seal....then white base coat over the repair area to allow the blending of the pearl.....spraying the pearl to match the surrounding area (I could have completley resprayed the whole fairing at this stage with pearl but then I would have needed the whole bike to ensure a good match).....then clear coat the entire fairing to bring out the shine. Its not a simple one coat job...hence the cost.
Hope this helps shed some light...atleast a little...but im more than willing to share what knowledge I have.......I actually paint Aircraft but cars and bikes are a hobby.....and so is airbrushing when I have the spare time.
btw its a good idea not to use any material that can be moved by solvent. for example acrylic primer or any 1k clears cause if its touched by thinners or other solvents.... bye bye pant job.... if you want a good quality paint job its best to use 2k primers and even bare metal primers like ppg's epoxy dp40 which dosent have an alcoholic based reactive thinner but an actual catechist hardener which when cured cant be moved by solvents. also another good primer is the house of kolor kiwkure thats also a 2pak epoxy high build primer that sticks to absolutely anything and everything. same applies to topcoats.
dont sweat the petty... pet the sweaty...
Just read the instructions.usualy use the same brand stuff or recomended stuff on the instructions