[SV9300] HSV VQ Statesman

[benzor]

For pics / specs etc - Refer to [sv 9300] Vq Sv93 12/43

Most of the stuff in this project thread is just going to be general fixup info, I may do some mods along the way, but I don't intend this car to be a 300rwkw street machine, or an autosalon showcar.

Mechanic's Report - Problems Found
a) Both front engine mounts worn - Passenger Side mounting bracket cracked
b) Alternator not charging correctly (11.6 volt charge rate)
c) Oil Seepage from both rocker covers, timing case and Rear Main Oil Seal areas
d) L H Rear Inner CV Boot Split
e) Automatic Trans Extension Housing Seal and Speed Transducer Leaking
f) Fluid seepage from Power Steering rack
g) Brake Rotors Glazed and Hollowed - FIXED
h) Temperature Guage not working - Diagnosed - VN Fault
i) Brake Fluid Requires Flushing FIXED
j) Drivers Side Seat Mount Broken
k) Cooling System Requires Correct Mix New Radiator to Come
l) Shudder From Auto Transmission Usual Turbo700 Shudder
m) Alternator Belt Cracked Purchased New Belt, will fit with new alternator

Other Maintenance to be Carried Out
- Replace Waterpump
- Replace Radiator / Pressure Test [Depending on Thermo Conversion]
- Throttle Body Stopper Modification
- General Engine Bay Cleanup
- Transmission Flush
- Oil Change
- Replace Shocks and Springs [Original GMH items currently in car]
- Replace Rear Brake Discs
- Replace Front Swaybar Links with JustCommodores Heavy Duty items
- Purchase Oil Pressue / Oil Temp / Water Temp guages and mount in discreet location
- Fit headunit stolen from mate
- Replace Cold Air Intake (Investigate if S/C V6 from VS fits, if not, custom mandrel pipe to pod behind front bar?)
- Replace Speakers

[benzor]

15/01/2007 - Brake Change
Cost: $216
Shopping List
- 2 x RDA Standard Front Brake Rotors
- 1 x Set RDA Front Brake Pads
- 2 x Bottles Castrol Super DOT 4 Brake Fluid
- 1 x Alternator Belt
- 2 x Rocker Cover Gaskets - HOLDEN 5L
- 1 x Tube Gasket Seal
- 1 x Haynes Workshop Manual - Suit VN, VP, VQ, VR, VS
Misc Products Used
- Bearing Grease
- Kero for Soaking Bearings
- Crown Lager for Drinking
Running Total Cost: $216

Did the brakes today, got a set of rotors + pads off ebay for $99 + $12 shipping, can't complain....except they're non ABS rotors! Oh well, the fuse has been out anyway for a while due to me blowing the highbeam one and the ABS one being the closest to steal, don't like ABS anyway, particuarly in earlier implimentations, I'd much rather just do my own thing than have it spack-attack at random.

Previous owner had some fully-sick DBA Slotted and Crossdrilled rotors on it, which were completely glazed and hollowed, and had bad lipping on them, to top it all off the pads were cracked too.

Replaced the hub seals and repacked the bearings while I had them off, also discovered the cause of my front-end knocking, the swaybar link pins were less than hand tight, I reckon I probably would have lost a nut within the next week or two, tightened them all up, will go back over with a torque wrench soon to make sure it's all right, probably when I do the rocker cover seals and the alternator.

Tossing up going to twin thermo conversions, instead of the clutchfan, but have had a couple of mixed responses from people, any input is appreciated

NEXT TO BE DONE: Alternator, Alternator Belt, Swap Optima Deepcycle Battery from old car, Rocker Cover Seals, Check swaybar links tightened correctly.

[benzor]

UPDATE
Vehicle Status - Undriveable
Going along the M7 Today at about 100km/h, and lo and behold, grinding noise from the front end.

After some pulling apart...Found this



****.

new bearings time.

[88GreenVN]

UPDATE
Vehicle Status - Undriveable
Going along the M7 Today at about 100km/h, and lo and behold, grinding noise from the front end.

After some pulling apart...Found this



****.

new bearings time.

Bad grease repack when rotors were replaced?

[Boonz]

im also thinking an overtightening problem lol.....

[benzor]

Yeah first time with non floating hubs. Oh well =D Should be right tomorrow.. Ya learn somethings..

How tight should they be done up. i just read it should be done untilt heres no play, then back it off a bit...

[Boonz]

did you do a lap around the block after you repacked the bearings???

[benzor]

did you do a lap around the block after you repacked the bearings???

Yep sounded completely fine.

Drove it home, sounded completely fine.

Drove it to a mates place.. no bearing noise.

Was only when i got up to 100ish km/h on the m7 it started shuddering badly.

[benzor]

****ing thing wont come off

[88GreenVN]

Slide hammer!!!

[defa]

or cut it off. but be careful

[benzor]

Problem fixed.

[Boonz]

cheater lol

[benzor]

cheater lol

When not even an angle grinder could get the ****ing thing off

[Boonz]

a cut right thru where the keyway is and a cut that goes almost all the way thru on the opposite, then split it with a chisel SHOULD of got it off.
but meh whatever's easier

[benzor]

a cut right thru where the keyway is and a cut that goes almost all the way thru on the opposite, then split it with a chisel SHOULD of got it off.
but meh whatever's easier

Thats what i thought.. But when we got it off, it's fused on all the way around, as if it's heated up and welded itself on!

[Boonz]

ahh fair enough. would of smelt nice before it stopped then yeh???
are the VR struts the same as VQ??? i thought VQ was the same as VN/VP

[benzor]

ahh fair enough. would of smelt nice before it stopped then yeh???
are the VR struts the same as VQ??? i thought VQ was the same as VN/VP

VR statesman struts are the same... VN/VP - VR SWB models are different.

Needed this one for the ABS sensor hole...

[benzor]

UPDATE
Vehicle Status - Driveable
18/01/2007 - Replace Bearings
Cost: $104
Running Total Cost: $320
Shopping List
- Complete set front Bearings
- VR I.R.S Front LH Strut Tower
- New skin for my fingers



Funniest picture of the experience.

Jack slippled while removing it.

All is well now though.

[jswan]

omg, that is quiet amusing looking at the angle its on. was there any damage to the car at all?

[Burt_vn]

yeah, youd have a lot of trouble getting that bearing off, wouldve welded itself right around, always replace the bearings when putting new rotors on, and make sure your packing them properly, and with HTB of course. and yeah, as for the tightening, do them right up hard to pre tension it, then back it right off, then do it up up again nice and slowly with as less pressure as possible...youll feel the nut grab on the washer, then go back and forth a few times until you get a feel for it, and youll be able to do it up with your eyes closed after a few goes.

[benzor]

Righto.

Went shopping!

Rear Main Seal - $25
Speedo Transducer - Still have to chase from holden.
Timing Cover Seal - $4 + $3
Oil Filter - $6
Alternator Belt - $9
Powersteering Belt - $9
Fan Belt - $9
Aircon Belt - $9
Engine Mounts - $20 ea
Transmission Mounts - $25
Nolotec Adjustable Camber Tops - $165
Harmonic Balancer - $70
Sump Seal Kit - $13
Valley Seal Kit - $24
Alternator Regulator - $55
Nolothane Z Link Swaybar Links- $45/set
Thermostat - $8
Trans Service Kit $18
Fuel Filter $8
Penzoil 15W30 - $39
Valvoline Dex3 - $51
HSV Short Ratio P/S Rack - $320
Autoguage Gauge Kit (Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Water Temp) + DIN Module - $175 + Shipping
Narva Wiring + Associated Fittings - $20

[benzor]

Gauges I ordered.

[benzor]

And a pic of the guages.

[benzor]

Nolothane Adjustable Strut Tops

Not that I have a camber problem at all...