Hey all, Well as the name states, its RC Drifting, Was wondering how many people out there own the Electric/Nitro drift cars, if anyone owns them Post up some pics of your car(s)...
Well i'll start...
I own an Electric car, I brought it with the Mazda RX-7 Shell which came blue, but have since bought a Silvia S13 shell Which I have painted Two-Tone Red & Black
I have bought a fake intercooler, Cannon exhaust & side mirrors for it.
Here are some pics...
1st Pic is the RX7............................................... .................................................. ........................................2nd Pic is the Silvia S13
Lets hear what you've got!![]()
I've got 3 cars in pieces at the moment. One is a Team Associated FT-TC4 with a Novak 3.5 Velociti Brushless, the second is a GV drift car (basically a stocker) and the last is a Kyosho Lazer ZX5 buggy.
I really need to strip them all down and rebuild them when I have room![]()
Last edited by Troy711; 02-11-2009 at 05:15 PM.
I'll post some generic photos.. lol
TC4
and the motor
Anyone who knows electric RCs will know that a brushless goes like a shower of shit.. I'd say near 100 km/h
I can't find any pics of the GV..
Lazer (this is when I had the brushless in it)
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I want to get into this. What is better Nitro or Electric? I've been looking at some on ebay because i don't want to spend that much on it anyway. Maybe around 150? instead of like 300-500bux.
I had a Traxxas Nitro 4-Tec 3.3 before some arse ran it over. I havn't replaced it yet.
I also have:
- 1:10 Team Associated B44 Buggy
- 1:10 Tamiya TB-03 with 3 Racing graphite kit
- 1:12 Xpress MRR2
- 1:12 Xpress MRR2 Pro - still in the build but will be a rocket when i'm finished. It's CF, light, 1:12 and with an 11v li-po battery will fly.
Will put up some pictures when i get a chance.
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This is an expensive sport/hobby. I've spent thousands on it. It's not just the upfront cost of buying the car but ongoing costs.
For example, if you want an electric car:
- Remote Control, Receiver and Steering Servo: $70
- 7V Li-Po battery: $80+
- Motor and Speed Controller: $80-$130
- Actual car (chassis): $100-$600
If you want a Nitro car i highly recommend the one i had; Traxxas Nitro-4-Tec 3.3
It costs about $500 but comes with everything you need ready to go. This car takes one hell of a beating but be prepared to break things when you stack it so you will spend a bit on spares.
To give you a rough estimate on speed, the manufacture of Traxxas report the Nitro-4-Tec as the fastest petrol car which goes 70mp/h (140km/h). My electric Tamiya would hit about 140km/h. Depending on your setup, Electric can get faster acceleration and top speed that petrol.
Personally, as much fun as it is, for every 15-30 minutes of play time i get i generally spend 2 or more hours working on the car, stripping it down to get out broken bits or repairing diffs. My Tamiya has a much better diff for racing that my Traxxas but requires a lot more work. I never ever greased my Traxxas diff but my Tamiya needs to be stripped down after 1-2 batteries (so about 5-20min of playing) to regrease the diff. If i don't do this then the diff dies
Feel free to ask any questions![]()
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i drift the poverty way. my car cost me $150 second hand, no idea what it even is but it goes about 40km/h (electric). i then cut the tops off spray can lids and slide them over my wheels. drift time!!!! and because it's 'slow' i never broke anything, took it out about 15 times before i found another hobby. i haven't played with in for about 2 years now though, battery is probably kaput
Not so much a drifter...
On road and dirt is a weapon 4WD Twin Disk brakes(On Main drive Shaft from gearbox) Front and rear Diffs with different oils. only a 1 speed gearbox max RPM is 30,000 at top speed Nitro 25%
Top Speed approx 100km untill i get a different tooth clutchbell for higher speeds.
Model is a Thunder Tiger EB4 Series 2 1/8 scale
Cost was $500 ready to go with fuel and Glow plug starter.
Never had any problems with it as i have set it up and looked after it with regular oiling of bearings and after run oil in carby and Cylinder when in storage.
Previous 4 pairs of tyres have been shredded with full speed drifties with road tyres(foam)/Dirt Tyres(Nobbies) and burnouts and general hard cornering
Tyres are All terrain Dirt and Road and seem to holding up quite good.
Exhaust was Polished Alloy but i powdercoated it Antique Silver as the Polished Alloy was Tea staining
Cheers Blokes
Nath
The vid of it in action with onboard Cam
YouTube - A 1/8 Scale Nitro RC Car Onboard Cam (Thunder Tiger EB4 S2)
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i raced 1/10th scale electric off road for a few years and loved it the electric scene is taking over the nitro scene for sure electric cars are way better. more torque more speed and more control with new brushless speed controllers allowing you to adjust the drag on the motor.
nitro sucks i have 2 nitro cars and my electric cars blow them away on the track.
also just because the box says 100kmh doesnt mean it will do 100kmh it takes alot of work to get a car to go that fast and most rtr cars wont even do 50kmh they just look fast cause there small
a lot of people do say Electric is better and easier to maintain but the problem is that it doesn't last a long time while playing with it. Then you also have to charge it for like +12hours which sucks!!!
I am thinking of buying a Great Vigor BF1 car. What do you guys reckon? I have no idea about this stuff.
The battle is between:
HPS
GV BF1
KYOSHO FAZER
and the Ebay car like: THIS
I also need to ask what is better: 1 speed or 2 speed? because everything i've seen is 2speed except for the GV BF1
Man you are living in the past, Lipo batteries last longer than a tank of fuel and only take 20? minutes to charge, if you have two batteries you can go non stop. Nitro powered rc cars are dead finally, thankfully. It was a much better and more popular thing when 10th scale buggies were all the rage. 1000 times more popular than it is now. Hopefully 1/8th scale electric buggies will bring it back a bit.
Because I'm retrotastic and like the 10th scale buggies (I used to race them and still have an original Associated RC10 + a RC10 Stealth Team car + a RC10 B2 that's mostly been upgraded to a B3, I also have a Losi Pro from back in the day. I also once had the Special edition Optima Mid but stupidly sold it). But I want a bigger buggy that's more stable on paddocks than a 10th scale I'm going to do this.
Buy the new brushless T4.1 ready to run kit. Because it's cheap + awesome and has wider arms (there's a genius plan in the madness) Then I'm going to buy a Chasis from the SC10 short course truck. Which makes it 1/8th scale buggy length and the T4 truck arms allready have it at 1/8th scale width. THEN I'm going to run the RC8 body and wing on it. So in the end I'll have a competition standard 1/8th scale 2wd buggy, which is something that doesn't exsist but that's what I want :P, although I do drool a little when I see pictures of a B44. I really prefer 2wd and want the extra stablity of a 1/8th scale.
But for anyone that hasn't see the newer lipo powered brushless cars you will be amazed, untill the last few years even a late 80s RC10 was still pretty close to state of the art as far as electic cars went, my early 90s Team car for example runs more or less the same speed around a track as the B3. But then everything changed, the new stuff is mental
Last edited by greenfoam; 03-03-2010 at 02:00 AM.
i used to race 1/8th scale on road gas cars. did it for bout 4-5years, best i got was 3rd in the nsw nationals. they are awesome cars, 0-100km/h in 2 sec flat, awd bout 2.3hp at 45 000 rpm lol.
i grew up with a trusty old Tamiya Fox (electric).
as I got older I moved to Nitro for a bit, but to be honest too much stuffing about. (Plus the nitro fuel gives me a headache for some reason).
offroad and onroad is fun, but offroad is more work because the cars need more cleaning and servicing (launching car into air off a jump, something is going to break at some stage).
if I was someone just starting, it would definitely be electric off road for versatility and ease of use.
a) electric is no stuffing about with engine and fuels. charge up the battery and you are right to go, no need to buy expensive fuel that will only "go off" if you dont use it all quickly. plus trying to stuff about with a nitro engine that just wont start is a pain in the arse. use the electric, then pack it away for a bit. want to use it again, just charge up and go (provided you look after batteries properly for storage).
b) electric is quieter, so no pissing off neighbours.
c) offroad because most people starting out want the ability to actually play around with their car around the house or local park.... and not have to find a smooth hard surface to only play on. an offroad car can still drive onroad, but not vice versa.
d) both electric and nitro still can still be 'tuned' for racing, so if you get serious later on you can still tinker to get the right setup.
Hey i've got an rc car that i cant get started, if i hunt through the shed and find it could someone give me some pointers on how to get it going?
Cheers.
My VY Berlina Build Thread - Mainly Stereo
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ure-heavy.html
How hard would it be to convert a nitro to electric? I have an old GV models cobra that the engine is stuffed and too hard to start and after reading this thread keen to get it out again
dave
There's brushless conversion kits for the more popular cars now but you should be able to engineer up something to suit if there isn't anything around for it
if fuel was left in it the nitro evapoates and the oils in the fuel go gummy and block everything up...
thats why when putting it away run the tank out dry and then back out glow plug and put a drop of after run oil in as well as pull of air filter and do the same down carb to crank case then pull the starter a few times to coat cylinder...u can use wd40 but stuffs the glow plug faster..
replace glow plug and store away..
u can put new fuel in (remove Glow plug) and pull cord a few times to free up engine and so forth,(Glow plug in, fresh charge of Glow Plug Igniter) engine will run shit for a while till it flushes out...
dont adjust carb unless u know what your doing... or set it to factory settings and tweak once freed up...
Edit: Soz Bloke quoted wrong post
ive got a nitro rc car that is now in pieces cause im slowly fixing it after it mated with a gutter. That was set up 4 drifting
Wrecking VL factory V8 only a few bits left still have full dash/crash pad
and have a vk 202 motor and 5 speed Make an offer want it gone