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Thread: Safety Certificate

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    Tis
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    Hi,

    I have just recently moved to t QLD because of work.
    I live near Mount Gravatt and just recently went to get a safety certificate (used to be called road worthy certificate I think) to change the rego over to QLD from NSW.

    I have a VT commodore S pac manual and they found 5K worth of faults. I will no say who did the service as I do not want to name names. I think they are just after work as most of the faults seem very picky especially considering my car has passed rego every year in NSW usually with no major dramas. I also look after the car and service it regularly etc etc blah blah blah.

    I do not know if this is against the rules but I will ask anyway and if it is let me know and I will remove it but because I am new to the area does anyone know any places that can do the certificate who are fair and not too picky. I can understand the need to fix issues that would make the car unsafe but some of the things I have been knocked back for are really silly and to be honest most of the repairs they say I need I am sure are fine and would be passed by most garages.

    Anyway just thought I would ask.

    Also on a side note I need to replace the clutch in my car as it has just started slipping (funnily enough it is not a safety concern as far as a safety certificate goes). Does anyone know a place in the area that are reasonably cheap to do this work and what should I look at replacing it with (i.e Standard or get rid of the dual-mass). I am not too conserned about the performance of the clutch as long as it works and lasts as I am not in to pushing the car too hard :P

    Thanks in advance

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    Its unfortunate but exactly the same happened to me.

    The mechanics know thats you have to do a road worthy so its too good an opportunity for extra cash to pass up.

    The mechanic I went to for my roadworthy found over a grands worth of work on an immaculately kept car. He even tried to charge something like $45 for windscreen wiper rubbers!

    It took a bit of searching until I found another through a mate of a mate of a workmate.

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    would be interesting to see the list of work that this guy says your car needs to be "roadworthy" in QLD !

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    I know a guy near Mt Gravatt that can pass your car with the bare minimum safety checks. I was quoted $2500+ from the closest mechanic that can provide me with a SC/RWC. But this guy only charged me $280 in total (I think it's around that mark) to repair my CV joint and it included the $60 RWC/SC. The guy even let me pass with some small safety issues.

    The first mechanic charged me $65 for the SC/RWC and this was his report:
    ~ Both front tyres are bald on the outside and inside
    ~ Front engine mount is sagged
    ~ All bump stops needs to be replaced
    ~ Front left wheel bearing is noisy
    ~ Rear left wheel bearing is noisy (Maybe)
    ~ Right CV shaft is noisy
    ~ Steering wheel is loose
    ~ Engine needs to be degreased

    And all these repairs would have taken him 4 hours to complete if I was to do it that day. And this stupid safety inspection took them 2 hours. Road tested my car for 20km... HMMMM ASSHOLES~!

    ~ I've done the tyre rotation myself and they are both perfectly fine
    ~ The front engine mount is slightly sagged by fine to drive. Swapped engine since then.
    ~ Pedders said the bump stops are on they way out and should be replaced
    ~ That sound is caused by a warped rotor
    ~ Pedders said the rear left hub needs replacing because there is a bit of movement
    ~ Right CV shaft had both boots torn and had no grease left. Was replaced at the 2nd mechanic
    ~ There's a small crack in the steering wheel cause the leather trim to be loose in a small area
    ~ Degreased... PFFFTTT!

    Now this second mechanic found the following faults within 10 minutes of me driving it to his shop and up onto the hoist:
    ~ Right CV joint has both torn boots with no grease left. Must be replaced
    ~ Bonnet stand (or whatever it's called) has a missing grommet which sometimes causes the bonnet to drop a bit. But he let me fix it on my own time and still pass the road worthy.

    Although he is dodgy, I still got my SC/RWC for cheap and with minimal money spent on repairs!

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    I had a hard time getting my car roadworthied and transferred into my name. Sounds confusing but I bought my car from Victoria, but it was registered in QLD. Since it was registered he had to get a roadworthy before he could sell it. I get a VicRoads roadworthy certificate from the seller, take it back to QLD and try to transfer rego but they won't do it because its not a QLD roadworthy certificate. So I went to the local mechanics to get it roadworthied, I thought I'd get it straight away since it passed in Victoria only a few days beforehand.. but noooo, a whole a4 page full of things 'wrong' with it. There was a little stone-chip in my windscreen, therefore I needed to get it replaced.. apparently. I took it to a windscreen place out of town and they said its fine its already been fixed properly etc. Then they said something about leaking suspension or some shit, and the exhaust was coming loose.. and they got me on having a tiny bit of frayed material on my back seat. I got the exhaust looked at by someone else and they were pulling on it when it was on the hoist and it wasn't going anywhere anytime soon.

    I ended up going to another town and it got a perfect roadworthy within half an hour. These other ****tards had my car for a whole day. I guess it pays to ask around and hear other people's opinions on certain roadworthy stations

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    yep pays to ring around
    had to take a car to get it Blue slipped (NSW) as the car had WA rego on it
    place #1 leave the car with us for 1/2 a day
    place #2 leave the car with us for the day
    place #3 sorry we are a little busy IF you can leave the car with us for an hour it will be done when you get back

    I took option #3 ,explained to the mechanic that the right headlight did have some moisture in it but i had blown it out but could not get it all out ,and i had re sealed it ,if it was going to be a problem in the hour i was gone i would get another headlight
    his comment was ,thanks for telling me should not be an issue
    picked the car up 1 hour later with blue slip and comment ........front pads are a little low ,keep an eye on them !

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    I Dont Under stand some of these safety checks, In NSW, you need a pink slip every year, they check your brakes, tyres, steering lights and a few other things, i think its good least you know the cars can stop lol, But in QLD you dont have to do this? just if you transfer the rego over, is that the way it works?

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    Quote Originally Posted by edals View Post
    I Dont Under stand some of these safety checks, In NSW, you need a pink slip every year, they check your brakes, tyres, steering lights and a few other things, i think its good least you know the cars can stop lol, But in QLD you dont have to do this? just if you transfer the rego over, is that the way it works?
    seeing as we have "pink slips" done every year we do not have to go through a roadworthy inspection when we sell a car
    thats about all i see as the difference BUT we pay $30 each year for our ticket !.............is it a waste of time ..............who knows ,its just what we have to do !

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    Quote Originally Posted by ausrs View Post
    seeing as we have "pink slips" done every year we do not have to go through a roadworthy inspection when we sell a car
    thats about all i see as the difference BUT we pay $30 each year for our ticket !.............is it a waste of time ..............who knows ,its just what we have to do !
    You wouldnt say its a waste of time if you seen some of the cars that i have seen OMG!!!! Death traps is a word that springs to mind... I would hate to have these cars coming towards me and my family

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    Quote Originally Posted by BOGANV8 View Post
    You wouldnt say its a waste of time if you seen some of the cars that i have seen OMG!!!! Death traps is a word that springs to mind... I would hate to have these cars coming towards me and my family
    Or even better when you see them when ya riding, scary lol. im glad its their to stop unsafe cars on the road

  11. #11
    Tis
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    Hi all,

    Here is a list of things they wanted fixed, I left the car with them for half a day (they also replaced 2 tyres which I requested).

    * rhf parker (was dimmer than the rest)
    * 2 stone chips in windscreen (1 can only see 1 and it is not anywhere near the driver's line of sight and is fairly small passed in NSW with it)
    * rhf wheel bearing
    * degrease and oil leaks (if there are leaks they are only small, I do all the services and I am not losing oil and there are no marks on driveway but I can do a degrease before next inspection).
    * caster bar bushes
    * steering rack leaking (again I am not losing power steering fluid but I will look over it before next inspection)
    *rear break pads (they want to replace the back pads even though it passed the break test. If they are low I can replace them but they still have a bit left. They also want to machine the discs they do not need doing and adjust the handbrake which is not hard but it does not need doing holds on a hill with no problems).

    I also need to replace the clutch because it is slipping (only very recent) but it does not affect me getting the certificate. They are being very picky if someone saw this list they would think my car is falling apart but it is in quite good nick and has passed rego every year in NSW with no real dramas.

    Anyway I will try somewhere else soon and will let you all know how I go.

  12. #12
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    replacing pads without machining rotors is a bad idea, either get them machined or get new ones, better than crashing because your brakes arent working properly.
    "The mind is its own place, and in itself, can make a Heaven of Hell, a Hell of Heaven."

    apparently wasting my time with 97 cubic inches
    milk doesnt come in 1.6 litres
    my geminis

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    Quote Originally Posted by nemesis_adrasteia View Post
    replacing pads without machining rotors is a bad idea, either get them machined or get new ones, better than crashing because your brakes arent working properly.

    Why is replacing brake pads without machining the disc bad. If the discs are not damaged in anyway and dont have a lip on them dont machine them.

    Plus cant see how a dim parker globe wont pass. I know this is QLD but in NSW the rules state if it is inoperative then its a fail other than it if it works then it passes.... Also what is wrong the RHF wheel bearing has play or is it just noisy...

    I cant understand QLD have no regular inspection yet they are picking up on some of the most stupidest crap. Even in NSW most of those things would still let the car past and we are one of the most regulated states when it comes to car safety
    Last edited by BOGANV8; 10-01-2010 at 09:57 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BOGANV8 View Post
    Why is replacing brake pads without machining the disc bad. If the discs are not damaged in anyway and dont have a lip on them dont machine them.
    any uneven wear will **** with it, sure if your brakes wear perfectly even then dont bother.
    "The mind is its own place, and in itself, can make a Heaven of Hell, a Hell of Heaven."

    apparently wasting my time with 97 cubic inches
    milk doesnt come in 1.6 litres
    my geminis

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    Quote Originally Posted by nemesis_adrasteia View Post
    any uneven wear will **** with it, sure if your brakes wear perfectly even then dont bother.
    Oh course if there is un even wear i would agree..

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    also if i remember correctly VT brakes have to be machined on the car, which is a pain in the ass
    "The mind is its own place, and in itself, can make a Heaven of Hell, a Hell of Heaven."

    apparently wasting my time with 97 cubic inches
    milk doesnt come in 1.6 litres
    my geminis

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    I had the same issue on a VQ stato at a Holden dealership....

    - Tail lights to dark = they where factory VQ tailights purchased from another dealership...
    - Chipping of the crome background on the left headlight
    - Tail light warning light come on and stayed on - this was due to having LED Taillight bulbs and as they are less resistant cause the warning light to come on.
    - Incorrect gear selector cover - hade 123D instead of 12DD even though was a 1993 S2 V8 so should have had 123D
    - paint on front drivers seatbelt - WTF!...thats all i have on that
    - rear power windows wind down too slow - dont quite see the saftey issue there...but anyway
    - engine required cleaning
    - chip in windsceen - it was about quater the size of a thumb nail.

    Told me it was illigal to not have a blet on the AC as I had a gilmer... and that the gilmer itself is an illigal mod.

    the best part was he came in and says - She drives nice....he gave me the list I told about the tail lights hit him up for the traffic reg that states a Gilmer and no AC is illigal as long as dimister works and called him a waker and walked out...I will never go to that dealership for anything ever again.

    I also went to K-mart for a roady once on the wagon....

    -Springs fell out at full extention. - i had jacked the car up to full extention with no troubles
    - slight crack in taillight - doesnt leak and infact still on the car and you cant even see the crack
    - no headunit - thats a new one didnt know having no radio could be a problem.
    - front bushes - granted the Z frame ones needed to be done...which I would have had him do had he no nocked the rest of the crap....
    - engine mounts cracked - they where new mounts and it was only the paint cracked
    - dust boots not on front shocks
    - central locking not working on front door
    - interior light not working
    - rear wiper blade no good

    I replaced the Z bar bushes and took it else where and it passed with flying colours.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tis View Post
    Hi all,

    Here is a list of things they wanted fixed, I left the car with them for half a day (they also replaced 2 tyres which I requested).

    * rhf parker (was dimmer than the rest)
    * 2 stone chips in windscreen (1 can only see 1 and it is not anywhere near the driver's line of sight and is fairly small passed in NSW with it)
    * rhf wheel bearing
    * degrease and oil leaks (if there are leaks they are only small, I do all the services and I am not losing oil and there are no marks on driveway but I can do a degrease before next inspection).
    * caster bar bushes
    * steering rack leaking (again I am not losing power steering fluid but I will look over it before next inspection)
    *rear break pads (they want to replace the back pads even though it passed the break test. If they are low I can replace them but they still have a bit left. They also want to machine the discs they do not need doing and adjust the handbrake which is not hard but it does not need doing holds on a hill with no problems).

    I also need to replace the clutch because it is slipping (only very recent) but it does not affect me getting the certificate. They are being very picky if someone saw this list they would think my car is falling apart but it is in quite good nick and has passed rego every year in NSW with no real dramas.

    Anyway I will try somewhere else soon and will let you all know how I go.
    repairs shouldn't cost 5K
    some approximate prices below

    park light bulb $1.50 ?
    windscreen repair (no chips/cracks permitted in wiper swept area) - $100
    adjust wheel bearing $50 ?
    S&F brake pads S&F ~ $150
    adjust handbrake - $30
    S&F caster bar bushes ~ $200
    powersteering leak - depends what it is (exchange rack $300)
    engine oil leaks - depends what it is as well

    some AIS stations are more picky than others, but the items you listed are fairly typical. Keep in mind we only carry out safety certificate inspections on sale and/or transfer of rego in Qld. We don't do them annually, so inspectors will probably look in a little more detail than they used to.

    If you think the repairs are unneccessary, then you can try different AIS stations, but it's difficult to say which AIS stations will go easier, unless they are dodgy.... And there are becoming less of these guys as there is some big fines for them now if they are caught passing defective vehicles.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darren_L View Post
    repairs shouldn't cost 5K
    some approximate prices below
    adjust wheel bearing $50 ?
    Wheel bearings in a VT are not adjustable will be a new one if there is play/noisy

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    Quote Originally Posted by nemesis_adrasteia View Post
    also if i remember correctly VT brakes have to be machined on the car, which is a pain in the ass
    If they do need machining better off to just replace them at 80 bucks each & a machine could be 50-60 bucks by the time you set it up... And also might be the chance of machining them below min thickness so just replace them if they look damaged

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    i hae read this so many times i almost went blind. i am trying to figure out where the 5 grand is being spent,cause it aint on parts thats for sure. if your car needs a safety cert before you take it give the engine bay,subframe etc a good degrease & waterblast. unless any leaks are running out like a tap left on after cleaning it you wont notice any leaks. i would even hazard your tyres were still reasonable but they wanted some more money from you. windscreen,as long as it doesnt impair drivers vision is fine. everything else can be done for a couple of hundred at the most if you do it yourself.
    trust me,you get some real funny blokes went it comes to a safety cert,fair enough if the cars a hazard to your health & anyones else but i have seen some cars fail because a left hand washer jet is blocked then telling them they can fix it for $50. talk about ridiculous

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    hi i got my vs acclaim road worthied today here's what they marked me on
    There's a few i understand and will be able to fix straight away
    *LH park light out
    *RH park light dull
    RH low beam out
    RH inner high beam
    Heater control switch broken
    Aerial broken
    RH tie rod end
    power steering pump kit
    both engine mounts (forgive me if i'm a female and not mechanically minded but isn't there 4 mounts?)
    LH sway bar link loose
    ODOmeter doesn't work
    engine oil leak- wash and find leak (if the engine was any cleaner it would be sparkling hmmmm can't see no leak)
    car needs to go to panel beater to get the rh front end fixed so the headlight will bolt in properly ( tried moving it and it ain't going no where )

    Anyone know how to fix all this cheap n fast

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    I'm surpised that a NSW car has to have so much work to make it roadworthy in QLD. NSW has the most stringent registration laws in Australia and Qld has probably the most lenient. As someone has already mentioned, there are some absolute shitheaps running around up there but because the registration systems is more lax, they get away with it. Doesn't generally apply down here - drive a heap, get defected. Simple.

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