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Thread: Locksmith Questions

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    Default Locksmith Questions

    Hey, guys. I've been a locksmith for almost 10 years now and have seen a lot of misinformation regarding commodore ignitions, locks and keys, even on this forum.

    Just want to give you guys a chance to ask any questions and am more than happy to clear a few things up.

    Just don't ask about breaking in or anything like that. Not gonna help anyone steal a car.
    How many roads must a man walk down, before you can call him a man?

    Seven!

    Its a Rhetorical question

    Rhetorical hey.......Eight!

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    Cool, a locksmith!!
    I have just bought a VS Commodore Equipe sedan and the key blade is loose in the head. Is there any way of tightening it up so it is firm? I have tried tightening the screws but it wasn't successful. Also, can the battery be replaced or would I have to buy a complete new head?
    Thanks,
    Rossco

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rossbx View Post
    Cool, a locksmith!!
    I have just bought a VS Commodore Equipe sedan and the key blade is loose in the head. Is there any way of tightening it up so it is firm? I have tried tightening the screws but it wasn't successful. Also, can the battery be replaced or would I have to buy a complete new head?
    Thanks,
    Rossco
    easy fix mate, take the key piece out of the head and rub the end thats goes in the head with some emery clothboth side just a light rub reassemble, works 9/10 times
    "The mind is its own place, and in itself, can make a Heaven of Hell, a Hell of Heaven."

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    I've had to completely replace at least two of my VZ keys, due to flat battery or some other malfunction. I have been told that the VZ tri-button keys cannot have the battery changed, as they are hardwired into the head unit. This has costed me $139 each time for a completely new key. Does this sound right?

    I also have an issue with one of the new VZ keys which was copied from the key issued with the car on purchase. I get two openings out of the car before it ceases to work. I have to open the car manually, and then recode the key using the ignition start procedure. This resets the key, which works fine before another two openings, and then failure again.
    My local locksmith has stated two things:
    1. He has admitted that there is a fault with their machine which has caused some keys to not be programmed correctly.
    2. Cutting a key from a copy of an original key can cause issues with the cars computer, which identifies one key, but then locks the other key out eventually thinking it is an unauthorised copy.

    What is your opinion? It is costing me a fortune to replace these keys, and luckily I have retained my receipts to claim warranty.

    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rossbx View Post
    Cool, a locksmith!!
    I have just bought a VS Commodore Equipe sedan and the key blade is loose in the head. Is there any way of tightening it up so it is firm? I have tried tightening the screws but it wasn't successful. Also, can the battery be replaced or would I have to buy a complete new head?
    Thanks,
    Rossco
    Could just be the screws are stripped and need to be replaced, or the plastic in the head cracks. Try the screws first before you replace the head.

    The battery can be replaced, if you have the time and inclination, but the key head is not designed to come apart, and the battery is soldered in. Once you've done it the key will never be the same again. Usually best just to replace the head. Less hassles.
    How many roads must a man walk down, before you can call him a man?

    Seven!

    Its a Rhetorical question

    Rhetorical hey.......Eight!

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    Quote Originally Posted by VZ SV6 View Post
    I've had to completely replace at least two of my VZ keys, due to flat battery or some other malfunction. I have been told that the VZ tri-button keys cannot have the battery changed, as they are hardwired into the head unit. This has costed me $139 each time for a completely new key. Does this sound right?

    I also have an issue with one of the new VZ keys which was copied from the key issued with the car on purchase. I get two openings out of the car before it ceases to work. I have to open the car manually, and then recode the key using the ignition start procedure. This resets the key, which works fine before another two openings, and then failure again.
    My local locksmith has stated two things:
    1. He has admitted that there is a fault with their machine which has caused some keys to not be programmed correctly.
    2. Cutting a key from a copy of an original key can cause issues with the cars computer, which identifies one key, but then locks the other key out eventually thinking it is an unauthorised copy.

    What is your opinion? It is costing me a fortune to replace these keys, and luckily I have retained my receipts to claim warranty.

    Thanks.
    That price sounds about right. Seen the price range from 95 to 150.

    With the key head it sounds like he is using a Yazaki or Com-code module to program the key. I have found in my experience that anything VX or above will have this problem unless the key is programmed with an on-board programmer. I have always used an on board and never had any trouble.

    In regards to #2, you need to introduce the key to the car first. You do this by
    1. Open the car with your old key.
    2. Insert the new key into the ignition and turn to ON. NOT START!
    3. Wait 5-10 seconds
    4. Remove key and turn 180 degrees
    5. Insert key and start car.
    How many roads must a man walk down, before you can call him a man?

    Seven!

    Its a Rhetorical question

    Rhetorical hey.......Eight!

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    [QUOTE=
    In regards to #2, you need to introduce the key to the car first. You do this by
    1. Open the car with your old key.
    2. Insert the new key into the ignition and turn to ON. NOT START!
    3. Wait 5-10 seconds
    4. Remove key and turn 180 degrees
    5. Insert key and start car.[/QUOTE]

    Yes I have done this several times with all the other keys I have bought for my VZ's, but this is the first time that anything like this has happened.

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    Hey guys im also a locksmith, haven been one for as long as "Puppet The Sock Carcass" but have been specializing in automotive work. but i don't want you to think that im trying to hijack your thread im keen to learn as much new stuff as possibly.

    With the way you said to introduce keys is a lil different to the way i was taught-
    I was shown this way-
    1: open car manually with new key
    2: put key in ignition
    3: start the car
    4: let it idle for approx 20 seconds
    5: turn off, get out of car
    6: close door an try the buttons

    as in the above post it seems that you have to keys programed to the same number an they are conflicting each other, an issue that we have at work when we use our RW4, but apparently there new update is ment to prevent this from happening. Programed both keys from the one supplied an when we go out to the car one works fine, then we introduce the second key an all works good but the first key no longer works,, we got a new machine now were we can pick the key numbers.

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    Hey shane, you guys have an AD100 or similiar? We have found that using that to introduce the keys works 100% of the time.

    Just curious what your new machine is? be handy since we do close to 20 holdens a week. Still using an old RW3 with the 4 upgrade
    How many roads must a man walk down, before you can call him a man?

    Seven!

    Its a Rhetorical question

    Rhetorical hey.......Eight!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Puppet The Sock Carcass View Post
    Hey shane, you guys have an AD100 or similiar? We have found that using that to introduce the keys works 100% of the time.

    Just curious what your new machine is? be handy since we do close to 20 holdens a week. Still using an old RW3 with the 4 upgrade
    Ill double check at work on Tuesday, cos i got a 3 day weekend an ill check what the new machine is but i think it is the ad100. its setup so you can manually program keys an the key numbers to prevent conflicts
    Last edited by Super_Low 91; 12-02-2010 at 08:36 PM. Reason: add info

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    i dunno, anything electrical seems to stuff up eventually, i have a vn exec, i stripped a vn calais that i bought, but im not interested in all the extra electrics, windows locking etc etc how do you guys feel about this after your problems with the battery on your keys dying? my dad has a vectra with keyless entry, and it will open when it feels like it, you can press it 100 times and it would be lucky to open half a dozen times. i cant see the point when it is so much dearer for the keys that will always need replacing where as your older cars dont need replacing until the key is worn.

    i hope this doesnt seem like im hijacking the thread

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    Quote Originally Posted by Puppet The Sock Carcass View Post
    Hey, guys. I've been a locksmith for almost 10 years now and have seen a lot of misinformation regarding commodore ignitions, locks and keys, even on this forum.

    Just want to give you guys a chance to ask any questions and am more than happy to clear a few things up.

    Just don't ask about breaking in or anything like that. Not gonna help anyone steal a car.
    Welcome to JC mate.
    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm" Sir Winston Churchill.
    My VS II Berlina Wagon

    MY12 II SV6 Sportwagon

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    I got a new barrel a short time ago on the VS and now sometimes when I take the key out the barrel doesn`t pop out so the steering lock can engage.
    I turn the wheel back and forth and push the barrel with finger and it pops out and locks.
    Help.
    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm" Sir Winston Churchill.
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    MY12 II SV6 Sportwagon

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    Quote Originally Posted by VS_Pete_1 View Post
    I got a new barrel a short time ago on the VS and now sometimes when I take the key out the barrel doesn`t pop out so the steering lock can engage.
    im experiencing EXACTLY the same thing in my VX, barrel is only a week old and yesterday i realised i cant get the steering wheel to lock.

    anything i can do? or do i give it back to the locksmith to fix up?
    (a local locksmith provided and rekeyed the barrel for me and fitted it all for $130, cost didnt matter, barrel was probably another turn from having a complete seizure; took 10mins to get it going to get it to him.)
    Quote Originally Posted by Jecs View Post
    its a nice day for a jog. so jog the f**k on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by VS_Pete_1 View Post
    I got a new barrel a short time ago on the VS and now sometimes when I take the key out the barrel doesn`t pop out so the steering lock can engage.
    I turn the wheel back and forth and push the barrel with finger and it pops out and locks.
    Help.
    Spray some dry lube down the barrell. (NOT WD or RP7! Wet lubes stay wet inside the lock and attract dirt which can damage your lock.) When pulling your key out wiggle it around as you pull. After a few times of doing this it will start to free up and pop out more easily.
    How many roads must a man walk down, before you can call him a man?

    Seven!

    Its a Rhetorical question

    Rhetorical hey.......Eight!

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    Thank you I give it a go.
    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm" Sir Winston Churchill.
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    hey mate,
    putting door trims back on a vt berlina. put the trim on door handle ect... done the screw where the lock jig is at the top and went to put the plastic bit on and jammed it down. how can i fix???!!!! :S
    cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by Puppet The Sock Carcass View Post
    Hey, guys. I've been a locksmith for almost 10 years now and have seen a lot of misinformation regarding commodore ignitions, locks and keys, even on this forum.
    Your not wrong

    Dazz
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    Quote Originally Posted by Puppet The Sock Carcass View Post
    That price sounds about right. Seen the price range from 95 to 150.

    With the key head it sounds like he is using a Yazaki or Com-code module to program the key. I have found in my experience that anything VX or above will have this problem unless the key is programmed with an on-board programmer. I have always used an on board and never had any trouble.

    In regards to #2, you need to introduce the key to the car first. You do this by
    1. Open the car with your old key.
    2. Insert the new key into the ignition and turn to ON. NOT START!
    3. Wait 5-10 seconds
    4. Remove key and turn 180 degrees
    5. Insert key and start car.
    Quote Originally Posted by Super_Low 91 View Post
    Hey guys im also a locksmith, haven been one for as long as "Puppet The Sock Carcass" but have been specializing in automotive work. but i don't want you to think that im trying to hijack your thread im keen to learn as much new stuff as possibly.

    With the way you said to introduce keys is a lil different to the way i was taught-
    I was shown this way-
    1: open car manually with new key
    2: put key in ignition
    3: start the car
    4: let it idle for approx 20 seconds
    5: turn off, get out of car
    6: close door an try the buttons

    as in the above post it seems that you have to keys programed to the same number an they are conflicting each other, an issue that we have at work when we use our RW4, but apparently there new update is ment to prevent this from happening. Programed both keys from the one supplied an when we go out to the car one works fine, then we introduce the second key an all works good but the first key no longer works,, we got a new machine now were we can pick the key numbers.

    Hey guys, bit of a thread dig but does this still work? I have a 2006 VZ SV6 and the battery went in my key head, I bought a new one off ebay and tried several ways to re code it but not the one you guys have suggested...
    Troy

    2006 VZ SV6 BOG STOCK...lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by Super_Low 91 View Post
    Hey guys im also a locksmith, haven been one for as long as "Puppet The Sock Carcass" but have been specializing in automotive work. but i don't want you to think that im trying to hijack your thread im keen to learn as much new stuff as possibly.
    I have been lockie for 27 years and still learn new stuff.......you guys on the Locksmith Trader Forum?


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    Quote Originally Posted by bj42turbo View Post
    I have been lockie for 27 years
    Quick one for you... Do bump keys actually work? Or is it Hollywood hype?

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rufys View Post
    Quick one for you... Do bump keys actually work? Or is it Hollywood hype?
    The one sided media program called ACA did an article on bump keys a few years back. From what I saw they actually work but they wouldn't show you what the key actually looked like (although 3 seconds on Google did).

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    yes bump keys work i have ones for numerous locks, each point on the key is cut to the same height , all your doing is making the pins jump and as they jump you turn the key, takes some practice.. YouTube it I'm sure there's hundreds of videos

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    I remember the bump keys on ACA, was the first I had heard of them before, after a quick google search I made one myself, they work, bit fiddly, takes some practice but work easy enough. the pin seperation needs to suit the lock though, So one key will not work in all locks like ACA tried to spin, but anyone keen enough could easily make up 6 or 7 to suit all the common lock types.

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    Theres a website where you can buy them from, for pretty much every common brand of house hold lock. There only like 3 dollars each.
    I reject your reality and substitute my own.

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