Hey guys,
I had a bloke that was going to swap an engine and auto into my WK statesman, his been showing very little intrest and lack of communication, ive had the idea i might do the swap myself,
im in need of advice/opinions on whether i should do this,
pretty much need the auto and engine out, and new auto and engine in, then unbolt all the accesories from old engine and put it on the newer. i got all the fluids needed to do this, even bought a transmission service kit for it
this will be my first time id be doing something like this, just wondering if its worth doing it, i can get a engine crane and have a range of tools needed.
any advice/tips or opinions would be greately appreciated
Well Since you got all the tools already, should make things a bit easier.
I would have no clue really, Esp when it comes to the air compressor, does it need to be degassed or can you just remove and put to the side ?
If and when you do it, take some photos and make a how too, im sure everyone would love to see how its done.
I have never done anything like an engine swap until recently. I have (well 75% there) converted my V6 VR to a V8. I removed engine and trans together (seemed quite easy) and bought any tools I needed to do so. The new engine is in and now it's just all the little bits left to do but it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. Just get in there and give it ago, just make sure you have a box and put everything in it and make sure you don't lose pieces. That's a pain in the a$$, I have lost a few small pieces but nothing to drastic just a few bolts and stuff.
Oh and get some guard protectors, don't want to damage your guards with falling tools and stuff. Worth their weight in gold they are.
NickVR, was it as simple as just taking out all the main fluids, then unbolting all the accessories, and bolts onto the chassis? Tie engine and lift crane up, then put it all back in reverse order?
Don't need to unbolt the accessories, just make sure they're all disconnected.
Don't need to drop the fluids either (except the water/coolant), the engine oil ain't goin anywhere and there's a plastic stopper you can buy cheap to put in the back of the gearbox so you don't lose fluid.
"The mind is its own place, and in itself, can make a Heaven of Hell, a Hell of Heaven."
apparently wasting my time with 97 cubic inches
milk doesnt come in 1.6 litres
my geminis
its fairly easy to change an engine the first one i did i just went by the workshop manual took 1 full day from start to driving with a new motor, its definatley worth doing yourself ive done heaps since then and my cars have never seen a mechanic in over 10 years and saved heaps of cash.if you cant find a plastic stopper just use the tailshaft yoke and cabletie it in so you dont dump all the tranny fluid as you raise the engine and box out and dont forget to disconect the shifter linkages.
Last edited by Hangman; 09-01-2011 at 10:23 PM.
thanks so much for the support guys, i had a similar thread on a different forum and not one reply, im giving it a go tommorow, its raining but i have an empty garage to do this in, thank god.
ill keep you guys up to date with photos and stuff if you really want, thanks again.
just unbolt the air compressor from the engine and zip tie it up where the air box normally is, also the is an electrical plug on the passenger side of the auto that is glued in, you have to get a heat gun or maybe a hair dryer to heat it up to be able to remove that plug
"A life lived in fear is a life half lived"
accesssorys are easier to remove after the engine is out and put them back on your new motor before it goes in makes for a much easier job not having to try and do it in a tight engine bay.
hey guys, thanks for the tips, pity i read them after day 1,
bit of an update;
pretty much managed to unbolt everything holding the engine to the chassis, and the tailshaft is off as well, all the plugs are off the auto, the crossmember and 1 bolt on each side of the engine mounts is all that needs to be taken care of before the engine crane comes in,
only stupid thing is; the guy with the crane is only comming tommorw night, so i have to wait around for him i guess.
i got photos if anyones keen
Its always good to have photo's lad.
Head on over to the projects spot and link them from photobucket or something.
Its always good to have a crack at this stuff yourself. Good learning curve.
I don't think anyone has mentioned it, but if you're doing it in a steel framed shed. A block and tackle works wonders.
Annnnd back to the JD...![]()
Nice work so far, good to see you're having a go.
Pictures explain everything, the vx sump looks different to the vy sump, and I had blue glue on and around the oil sump plug....
Quick question;
the fuel rails, how on earth do I take them off, I had to take off the whole inlet manifold but would like to use the one off the new motor.
the bolts for the fuel rail are on the bottom of the inlet manafold, take the top off, undo the next set of bolts and pull that bit off. turn it over and you'll see the bolts for the fuel rail, they are on the underside.
All the gaskets for the inlet manifold up to this point are reusable if you're careful.
Pull your head lights out and take the front bar off.
Save yourself the risk of damaging either.
Also, you might want to put the motor on the ground and reasses the hooks, looks like it'll be a bitch to get back in like that.
last time I did a v6 swap I got it done myself in just over half a day... that was epic.
/csb
moral of story: get in there, have a crack at it what's the worst that can happen? just concentrate and don't do it drunk like i usually used to![]()
WTB: mulberry VN interior parts
Note to others; VX Sump is definately different to the VY Sump, inspection plates dont cover the auto at the bottom if you use a VX sump on a VY auto.
Bit of a slack day, all bolt ons are on, its ready to be put back into the car, just nervous I might cause damage on the car. Any advice? Cant get radiator out without having to do aircon regass.
What? Why can't you?
Are you sure you're not looking at the auto trans lines bud?
The aircon radiator should be infront of the radiator.
Pull the front bar and headlights off too.
I dont know exactly what it is, but there is a line that goes from the aircon main block or whatever it is, to the front of the radiator, which there is some can attached to it, i tried undoing it but there was gas releasing so i tied it back up.
any other ideas?
unbolt the a/c move it to one side (Dont disconnect any hoses) and bolt it back up to the new motor. Take pics of EVERYTHING so you can refer back to it if you need to see ho something goes/fits. Get a mate to give you a hand