getting my engine rebuilt, and wondering whats the best way to run it in.
- oils (best time to change, k's, brand)
- coolant (do you run straight water?)
- best way to run in (up hill loads?)
Just don't trash it. Change oil after a a thousand k's or something like that with new filter. You can run it on normal Holden coolant with 50/50 mix, I assume the water pump will be new so you might wanna drop a few pellets in the cooling system to lubricate the water pump.
Check the oil level from time to time as new engines tends to consume quite a bit of oil in the first run.
yeah what he said, but on a side note, those pellets don't ubricate the pump, they stop scale forming onthe back of the pump
WTB VR/VS FACTORY HEADUNIT BRACKETS PM MEOriginally Posted by MY-42-VT
If you have a towbar, tow a trailer half full of sand around, stops the bores from glazing up. Or you could take a few fat friends around.
I was under the impression the pellets were designed to plug up small leaks within the system, especially the water pump. They're made of crushed almond shells or something and serve as a bandaid.
Crushed walnut shells, and yes, they are to take up any minor leaks.
I always believe rebuild new old give it a little warm take it easy until it's running temp then go for it just don't thrash it for 10-20min like a V8 supercar driver.
Originally Posted by Yoda
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
- Theodor Seuss Geisel
just drive it dude, nothin special. the only thing i got told when i got my stroker was not to take it over 4000rpm for a day or two, just till everything has had a chance to settle in (heat up and cool down a few times).
Quagmire: My fellow Americans, I have not been entirely truthful with you. I did gagoogidy that girl. I gashmoygadied her gaflavity with my googus. And I am sorry.
well its not a standard rebuild.
im strokin a 304 to a 355 with 286 cam, flat tops, new rings, lifters, timing chain set, new bearings all around, 3500 converter. (list goes on)
i know when i first start the engine i should hold the revs at 1600-2000 for 20 mins.
not to let the engine idle.
switch it off. change the oil and filter to get rid of all the shavings. then change it again at 1000-1500 k's
when taking it out on its first drive. subject the engine to several bursts of acceleration from 60-90 k's. this builds pressure behind the rings and assists bedding them in.
i was also told to run straight water for a couple of hundred k's and just keep flushin it.
anyone else got some good info?
What would the difference between water and coolant be?
I just got told varying loads. But put it under load. Don't let it idle.
Run a mineral based oil for a small amount of km's, can't remember either 50-200 or something. Then change to your normal oil.
difference between water and coolant whilst flushing it reguarly? COST lol
i have no idea why to run straight water. maybe to clean it out?
why is it bad to let it idle?
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
- Theodor Seuss Geisel
you mite of seen it around geelong few months back. car looked exactly like mine sept a series 3. anyway the owner (a mate) got t-boned. it was sittin in his shed so i went there with a trailer, threw some money at his face and loaded it on.
i wanted to buy a new car but nothin really grabbed me. so i thought id just do up the caprice.
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a mechanic said to me that all new cars now before they come out of the factory they they put a mixture of fine metal shavings and good oil and they run the engine in for bout 500km then do an oil change.
he said they do that now so it gets the engine run in properly cos too many people thrash a brand new car when they buy it
"A life lived in fear is a life half lived"
ok oils. after the running in oil, what would be ideal.
Penrite, Penzoil, Motul, Nulon??
5W-40, 10W-40, 20W-50
semi synthetic, full synthetic
Metal shavings and good oil? Metal Shavings?? I can't see how that would be good.
Weighting, just get whatever your engine normally runs, 10-40 or 20-50.. 10 might be pushing it but I don't know what those engines run normally.
Any reputable brand, doesn't really differ to much there.
Semi or Full Synthetic, not sure, I'll be running semi I believe.
The second number is the one that is important here. Depends on how you built the engine, if it is a high compression, high performance engine, a fully syn 30 is good, otherwise anything that has a warm weight of 40 or 50 will be good for a 5 litre.
you can get leftover metal patricles from machining/honing and not having the block cleaned properly before assembly.... but most places double check this before they even attempt to put any parts in the block...