getting plastered

[slappa.]

after a bit of advice from members who are a plasterer by trade. (i know there is a couple around).

just need to know the go with butt jointing unispans. room size is 7m x 9m. joist direction is running the 9m @ 450 cc.

is was thinking 3600x1200 staggered butt joints? is this acceptable with back blocking?

anything i should know?

also for sound suspression, would i be best off using sound check gyprock or soundscreen plus R3.0 insulation?.

cheers

[Hunter SS]

for the briefest moment i was getting ready to tell all about my weekend at Yamba..... but then i read it.
Sorry mate.. can't help ya!!

[holden-4-life]

yes to staggered butt joints and yes 3600X1200 will be fine.
what do u mean with back blocking?
do u mean back blocking the butt joint? or all the joints?
u dont need to back block the butt joints. u do have to back block the recess joins.

[slappa.]

hmm got me there? i was always under the impression back blocking was needed at floating butt joints. when you say back block to recess only, picturing a standard wall with the recess running across the studs horizontally, it wouldn't be back blocked. isn't the recess running across ceiling joists?

any ive included the engineers detailed specs so you know what im dribbling on about.

thanks for the help.

[holden-4-life]

haha my bad, if u can help it try not to have a floating butt join, cut the sheet back to the joist. u should always try and join ur butt joins on a joist, the end of one sheet hanging half way over the joist and the start of the over sheet on the other half.

yes u do always have to back block floating butt joins but try not to have a floating.

i take u know u only have to back block the ceilings, not the walls.

[slappa.]

yeh so we are talking the same thing, i just should have mentioned it would be floating not landing on a joist.

only reason for floating was it worked 3600 with minimal offcut, i'll have to go to 4200 to cut back at a joist.

yeh i was just using the wall as a easier example to think of.

thanks for the help.
thanks for ur help.

[f1tzy]

You are supposed to float butt joints anyway last i checked back blocked of course. the rest of the room has to be back blocked too as it is 3 joins or more wide. As for the sound id go with your standard sheet with acoustic insulation @ R2.0 or higher. I haven't done a lot of sound proofing work but that combination works well at the oldies place

[elemeNtz]

for the briefest moment i was getting ready to tell all about my weekend at Yamba..... but then i read it.
Sorry mate.. can't help ya!!

As i don't drink i was preparing to get on my moral high horse and annoy all people who drink :P

[Troy711]

You are supposed to float butt joints anyway last i checked back blocked of course. the rest of the room has to be back blocked too as it is 3 joins or more wide. As for the sound id go with your standard sheet with acoustic insulation @ R2.0 or higher. I haven't done a lot of sound proofing work but that combination works well at the oldies place

Best way to do it is not fix directly to the trusses lol. Direct fix is dodgy as.. metal batons work soo much better.

[f1tzy]

Yea they are good but we only use them when its needed ie. massive spans

[Zeussy]

Hey u guys, sort of on topic, but sort of a Hijack....

Im doing some reno work at home, downstairs bathroom, basically just a toilet and a hand basin, and just wondering if it should be fibro, (or whatever its called??) or is it ok to just use gyprock sheeting?? ATM its gyprock, not sure if its the wet area's type or not?? how do you tell? read the printing on the back lol?

All the work I've ever done, (was working for a bit for a plasterer) in bathrooms was always that grey type, (fibro?) with the pink/purple plaster wet area stuff...

Any help would be great...

[gopher]

and just wondering if it should be fibro, (or whatever its called??) .

i think the word you're looking for is villaboard

[Zeussy]

Ok....

So do I rip out all the gyprock, and use villaboard.... or just get some wet area plasterboard/gyprock?? (if theres such a thing)

[gopher]

is it already a bathroom?
if so why rip all the gyprock out?

you can get plaster for wet areas but personally in a bathroom i would use villaboard.
any bathroom i've done it's always been with villaboard
but i'm no expert i'm just a dumbarse cabinetmaker lol

[Zeussy]

Yeah, its pretty much how its going to be layed out, Its really just a toilet, and a hand basin/sink..

The house is 13 years old, built by one of the big names, probly did it on the cheap or something?

I was only going to rip all the gyprock out, if people thought I sould replace it with villaboard, but thinking about it more, it probly doesnt get that wet anyway, just a sink and a toilet? with a splashback behind the sink,
Theres just a few spots needs repairing - where the tiles came off, and where we are going to move the sink taps, have them coming out of the wall, not mounted to the sink, pretty easy,

Thats why I asked, im just a dumbass plant mechanic lol, only really done 4 months of gyppie'ing (that was like a year ago too, so my first joins I did in the garage, arent exactly perfect!!)and all the bathrooms/laundrys weever did were all villaboard?

So hmm, maybe cause it doesnt get so wet might be ok to use the Aqua check (Is that the name?) gyprock? What do you rekon????

[gopher]

So hmm, maybe cause it doesnt get so wet might be ok to use the Aqua check (Is that the name?) gyprock? What do you rekon????

that's what it's called.
boral have one as well

i wouldn't be ripping it all out
i'd just patch it where it needs it using the wet area plaster

[Zeussy]

Sweet mate, sounds good, I'll have to get a sheet, repair about 400mm up from the ground, all the way around and behind the basin, 1200 x 700, for the plumber, so not much, just a few sort of butt joins - no recess on the old stuff?

With the normally recessed joints, ill cut a sheet in 3, along the 1200 - like 400 each, leaving a recess on one side of two of them, can/should I flip the two with recesses down, and have a flat surface to tape? Im thinking so..

[f1tzy]

If your going to have a butty its better to have cut edge to cut edge rather than recessed edge to cut edge

[Troy711]

Yea they are good but we only use them when its needed ie. massive spans

Far out... we use them for the whole house. Even if it is a little dog box size..

As far as I know ACT is the only state that uses metal batons as standard in all houses. It's awesome, saves on back blocking and makes it easier.

[Troy711]

(that was like a year ago too, so my first joins I did in the garage, arent exactly perfect!!)

Don't feel so bad... it took one of my mates about 2 hours to flatten out a butt joint that was about 1200mm long lol

[slappa.]

You are supposed to float butt joints anyway last i checked back blocked of course. the rest of the room has to be back blocked too as it is 3 joins or more wide. As for the sound id go with your standard sheet with acoustic insulation @ R2.0 or higher. I haven't done a lot of sound proofing work but that combination works well at the oldies place

ahh i should have mentioned too, that in the room size 7x9, the 9m run is divided into three areas by rsj's, exposed not boxed, so its only two sheets wide per section.Sooo no back blocking needed? its a garage convert to lounge.

Im a chippy and wont usually tackle sheeting more than a old window/door gap, or kitchen/bathroom. So i think i should be able to **** this right up.

[Zeussy]

If your going to have a butty its better to have cut edge to cut edge rather than recessed edge to cut edge

Ahh cool, thats what I was thinking, at least then i'll start out on an even surface...

Don't feel so bad... it took one of my mates about 2 hours to flatten out a butt joint that was about 1200mm long lol

Haha, that makes me feel a bit better then, when dad was watching me do it, he's like "ohh you know what you're doing" sort of surprised, haha im like "pffft, wait till you see it at night with the lights on!!!!" (In the living room ceiling, didnt turn out too bad actually, if you didnt know it was there, itd take a bit to pick it.. I feel sooo proud!!! LMAO...)


Cheers all you guys for all the advice, legends...

And sorry slappa, for the hijack - I saw the thread and thought thats a good idea, find out the right way off the pro's..

You should be right doing it slappa, if you have ever watched some gyprockers/plasterers doing a job you can learn a bit from that alone, I only did it for a few months and I picked it up pretty well, was doing internals in the first week, good job too..

Although, when I was working, the boss man, who's job it was, had his chippies throw up some stand ups, over an uneven brick wall.... haha it was almost funny, but not, cause we had to try and do something with it!!

[f1tzy]

Far out... we use them for the whole house. Even if it is a little dog box size..

As far as I know ACT is the only state that uses metal batons as standard in all houses. It's awesome, saves on back blocking and makes it easier.

Id say your right because i hardly see any battened ceilings up here when it isnt needed and when it is needed they normally dont allow for it and the top plate is hidden

[f1tzy]

ahh i should have mentioned too, that in the room size 7x9, the 9m run is divided into three areas by rsj's, exposed not boxed, so its only two sheets wide per section.Sooo no back blocking needed? its a garage convert to lounge.

Im a chippy and wont usually tackle sheeting more than a old window/door gap, or kitchen/bathroom. So i think i should be able to **** this right up.

Ah ok then you won't need to back block the joins then BUT if its a steel frame and close roof sort of thing i probably still would because the expansion of the metal could cause cracking over time.