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I'm trying to find out if a vs live axle towbar (the one that has the support brace bolted to the inside of the boot on the floor) will fit a vl? I know vb-vl are the same and by the looks of the vs one, it looks pretty close to it, but before I spend $90 at the wreckers I want to be sure. Can...

Ok so running my engine at 90-100deg won't do any damage?

Well the max elleries manual says the thermostat is completely open at 100 deg. Thanks for your help mate. Can anyone else confirm the factory temp? If feel a lot better having some more input as I'm about to change to a 82 deg highflow thermostat but don't really want to as I just put all this...

Yeah haha it's psi, 110kpa

On the cap it has 16kpa that's new too

I've done a search and I'm finding mixed messages. What is the factory and or most beneficial operating temp for a 304? Not what notch on the gauge it sits at but what degrees? I have a vr v8 in my vl with a new genuine holden 88 deg thermostat, radiator, hoses, clamps, au thermo fans and...

I'll try that when I'm home. Thanks

Yeah I did do that last night, didn't smell of fuel or leak fuel even when I turned on the ignition and let the pump prime

Nah it doesn't. Havnt really noticed anyway. I have just gone to the wreckers and got a replacement iat sensor as I'm told my one is dead, a second hand Oxy to test and a fuel pressure dampner thing that goes on the inlet side of the fuel rail, will install all these in the next couple of days...

The return line from the rail is fine, the charcoal canister seems to be ok. Yeah I would assume a little is ok, but it's not a little spitting, it makes a puddle after 1 minute after a few revs.

Ok, I'll have a look into that. Thanks

How do I test that?

Sorry, I havnt tasted it haha just smelt it

I've tried that and it smells like fuel, but I not too strong.

Hi everyone, I have a vr 5 litre in my vl calais and I'm about to replace the Oxygen sensor because I have something leaking from my exhaust and I'm assuming it's fuel but I want to be sure. I'm not 100% sure if it's fuel but it doesn't have a green tinge like coolant, it doesn't go away even if...

There is a blower fan fuse, check that, mine blows occasionally, the wipers may be the little black box under the drivers side kick panel. 2 of those have died on me, can't turn wipers on.

Yeah it's a low coolant sensor in the radiator, the warning light is in the clock section under the low fuel level light. If you have the low coolant picture on your dash then it will work, the reason it won't will probably be a blown globe, the only way to get the coolant light off is pull out...

I did this conversion about 3 months ago, the battery light has to be hooked up to your alternator, it should be a brown wire on the same harness as the starter motor harness. The brake one I can't help you with. and the pwr I used a manual 5 litre so I hooked the pwr up to the low oil pressure...

I disagree, if the solex locks are installed right, they work very well, I've got them on my car along with a viper 791xv without the remote start, as I leave my car in gear all the time due to the handbrake not working. My old calais had solex locks that I installed, and it did get broken...

Full tank of fuel?

I'm gonna take a stab in the dark and I may be completely wrong (anyone feel free to tell me I am) but could it be that due to the custom fuel pump and your memcal maybe tuned to that pump, that's why your having problems?

Awesome. Thanks heaps

Yeah I know that but will I need the autometer sender or will the gauge be compatible with the factory t5 sender? Thanks

Just wondering if I installed a autometer electrical speedometer in my vr 5 litre t5, will the holden Hall effect sender work with the autometer gauge? Or will I need to put a autometer Hall effect sender in?

Hopefully, I've put a ground wire down there now so ill find out tomorrow, but I'm going to replace the vss anyway. My other question is, will an autometer speedometer wire up to the existing Hall effect sensor?

Ok, figured out I didn't have ground down there. Havnt had a chance to go for a test drive, but I've still got power at the purple wire at the ecu when the car isn't moving. I'm going to replace the vss regardless and if the problems still there I don't know what to do. Sorry I got confused...

I don't have anything connected

The Vehicle Speed Sender (VSS) has a 10-pole magnet rotated by the transmission output shaft. Attached to the sender is a Hall Effect circuit that interacts with the magnetic field created by the rotating magnet. A 12 volt operating supply for the speed sender Hall circuit is supplied from fuse...

That's because the speedo grounds it out unless its moving and then pulses

It's not intermittent, the light will always come on, just depends on how I drive, the only time the light doesn't come on is if I don't use engine brakes and don't go above 1500rpm in any gear

The ecu is deffinatly getting a constant power from the sensor

Just edited my post, sorry The circuit is not complete until the speedo is hooked up, as that grounds the 8v pulse from the sensor 10 times per second and then the ecu counts the pulses. Even if the sensor is dead there's no point in changing the vss until I have a speedo hooked up as ill...

That's how it is already. The circuit is not complete until the speedo is hooked up, as that grounds the 8v pulse from the sensor 10 times per second and then the ecu counts the pulses. Even if the sensor is dead there's no point in changing the vss until I have a speedo hooked up as ill still...

So what does that mean? The violet/white wire has a signal going into the ecu.

At the gearbox, I have a 3 wire Hall effect sender. One wire is ground, one wire is 12v (which has 12v) and the violet/white wire which goes to the ecu and splices to the cluster. If I connect a autometer gauge to the violet/white wire and then give the gauge a 12v and ground, that should finish...

Will that affect the tune though?

Yea I thought about disconnecting the light, but what if I get another error code and I don't know about it. I'd rather have it running right.

The code still comes up after awhile even when ecu has been reset

Ok, so can I get around it without hooking up a speedo? Will driving with that error code in the ecu be bad at all or be running rich etc?

Could it be the fact that I don't have the speedo hooked up?