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Yes, what has been done so far will have had little impact; it's only the start. It's been pointed out that it's a serious problem for close to 30 years. Kyoto, a general acknowledgment of that fact, was 20 years ago. We've been way too slow to act, so when we do get serious we're going to...

There should be a flock lined rubber in the rails that the window slides up and down, front and rear. That does tend to go missing, particularly the front one which climbs out of the rail as the window is wound up. If one or both of those is missing or not sitting properly in the rail, the...

The one on the back of the inlet manifold that the vacuum hose fits onto. The other hoses are behind the dash and go to the various actuators that move the vent flaps. It's called a vacuum check valve. It may still be that is leaking. If you suck on it (or a hose connected to it) it should...

Just understood this bit ^ (I think). No, you have it correct as it is now, with the strap running over the top of the tyre.

If you had a vacuum leak in the engine (inlet manifold), the engine would run really badly and you would still have enough vacuum to operate the vent controls, so it's not that. If you've had the vacuum hose off the engine end, that is one place to look for it to be cracked or split? Is the...

Yep, exactly. (The rubber strap should be removed, rotated 180 degrees, and refitted on the pin at the top so that the teeth point in towards the tyre/wheel, then as per statey1975's paint sketch.) We can just see the pocket on the nylon strap (I think) in the last image which is what the...

Just trust/hope that she won't read it. (But it'll be repeated as a quote now to increase the chance :).)

If you do, push (lever) the timing cover hard down onto the sump gasket to compress it while you tighten the timing cover bolts or you will get a sump gasket leak. You might get one anyway.

Except it (post #5) is not correct :). Originally in VT (Series I) both fans were switched on, with two fan speeds (motor windings) for each fan; low speed and high speed. Engine cooling and A/C switching criteria (which includes road speed and A/C pressure) are used to switch both low and...

That's what will happen when the variable assistance stops working. Could be BCM fault, vehicle speed sensor fault, a fault in the control solenoid on the rack tower or in the wiring between the solenoid and the BCM.

Maybe but it doesn't sound road speed dependent. Maybe slipping torque converter clutch? Maybe just an engine miss though; 'leads, 'plugs?

WRT engine cooling, the low speed fan is switched by the BCM in response to the CTS signal into the PCM and via the data bus. The high speed fan is switched solely by the PCM and can switch on with or without the BCM switching the low speed. Normally the low speed will be switched by the BCM...

The relay failing is a common problem. It is the only thing (other than a BCM or wiring fault) which will cause the fans to stay on with the ignition off.

As it will fire briefly it does sound like a fuel pump. If you don't have an assistant to hand, you can bridge the terminals at the fuel pump relay to get the pump to run (if it's working) without cycling the ignition on and off. If there's no fuel pressure you can feel it in the fuel hose...

Actually, yes, it being for one of the vapour lines would make more sense. There are three on top of the tank, two of which go back to the filler neck, one to the Carbon canister. In either case they can be soldered (still) or the tank, reservoir or filler neck replaced.

it is usual to use a tyre lever or large screwdriver to provide the belt tension. Do be careful what you are leaning on when doing so because it is possible to damage parts - like the power steering pump - if you put the force in the wrong place.

You mean the return line spigot into the tank? It can be resoldered or you can replace the tank with one that has the return line included in the sender unit, as found in late VP-VR. Not VS though because they have a different gauge sender.

They do serve a purpose. I once had a VN that had a high pitched whistle with the interior fan on. Crack a window and it would go away. It turned out that the boot carpet had fallen across the vent and blocked its flow. An easy fix but head scratching to find.

Run with it in Drive first. That's one less thing to think about. You can experiment when you've got the basics down. You can hear SFA with a helmet on anyway so you have to shift off the tacho. not something you usually do on the road. Check on Perth Motorplex site above for the specifics...

I take it you haven't looked on the B&M site then. While I haven't looked for the shift plus specifically I have them for the 4L60 kits, as downloadable pdf's. I can't see any reason why the shift plus instructions wouldn't likewise be available.

My 2 cents: Shallow stage for consistent runs. There is some margin in between the two light beams that have to be blocked by the front wheels in order to stage. You can be forward or back in the beams and still block them. Roll forward slowly until the second of the two lights j-u-s-t...

Wiring it to what? I can access the wire colours if you post back (not immediately to hand) but in the meantime there are only power (battery voltage), earth and the signal wire.

It should be less than an hour's labour to do all 5 on one wheel. The price of the studs is POA. DIY is certainly possible. I would also be looking at why they broke. I have never seen a stud break without a reason. Over or under tightened wheel nuts? Wrong wheel offset, centre hole size...

The problem is proving it. It sucks but that is just the way it is sometimes. If she did pull out from the kerb, she can't have got much speed up so it possibly looks worse than it is.

The reasoning is that if there is crap/residue between the calliper and ABS unit you can push it back into the ABS unit with the displaced fluid where it can block the valves. It requires that the stuff is in the line in the first place so with a maintained brake system is never going to be a...

Yep, that will work. (There's a spring and spool valve in the non- variable assistance type, so make sure you get that out.)

The total track difference is 34mm; (43-26) x 2 = 34.

The change in offset in VP/VQ IRS was used to widen the front track and yes, it does alter the geometry, but, with one exception, the hard suspension parts are identical to the earlier live axle cars. The top strut bush was moved back to increase caster, something that was also done on the live...

This ^. That has to be the greatest scam ever. How anyone ever thought that they weren't paying for cheaper fuel through higher grocery prices I don't know. The thing is, if you shop at either of the big two supermarkets you are screwed the extra couple of dollars if you don't use the fuel...

Without checking, doesn't the supply voltage for the cooling fan relay come from the bus bar just in front of the relay box in the engine bay? If you disconnect the battery (to avoid any shorts) and pop the relay socket up you should be able to see where the connection is made and trace it back...

Yes. Yes. The gauge sender has a single wire to it that slides over a 'T' shaped pin. The sensor for the PCM (ECU) has two wires and a 'U' shaped spring clip that retains it on the sensor.

The seal won't affect the bolts. It will probably leak fluid though. If you tighten the bolts up with the belt on or with the pullet not seated on the pump, they may come loose. If it's really a problem you can apply some Loctite or Pernatex thread locking compound onteh bolt threads before...

Globes are 5 spoke and have the outer edges (~5mm) of the spoke in a machined finish, yes? Not factory but they are period correct.

That would be it wouldn't it? The BCM and key fob communicate by those contacts. If one is missing, half the time the contact won't be made.

Maybe check that there is actually a consistent fault first? Clear the fault code (remove the ENG COMP fusible link under the bonnet for ~10 seconds or so) and check to make sure that it is cleared. Then drive the car and see if the fault code comes back. If it doesn't, as sometimes happens...

You should be able to buy the seal between the overflow bottle and cap as a genuine part. It's self adhesive and made of an expanded foam material.

Good to know. In a VR or VS sedan with IRS a full four wheel brake upgrade using VT- components should be far more effective than just doing the fronts. The VK and VL IRS conversions definitely used parts from the European cars that the Commodore was based on. Yes, they are different to the...

You can replace it without removing the sump but you are really best to do it with the sump off. The plate that holds the seal forms the rear part of the block to sump sealing surface. As such it has to sit flush with the block so as to form the continuous sealing surface. The rear main seal...

http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vr-vs-holden-commodore-1993-1997/8379-vs-seats.html I did find this so a conversion could be on.

Maybe coming from the brake booster? Does the pedal feel alter with the engine off? You should get 3-4, maybe a few more, pedal presses after the engine is switched off before the booster vacuum is depleted and the pedal feel alters.