Hmmmm...might just leave it auto as its going to remain factory stock everywhere else. I'll just concentrate on building a stroker for the exec. Thanks for all your help anyways guys
Got temp gauge working by soldering the back of the voltage regulator .
Found the vacuum line on fuel pressure regulator is broken but I can't see where it is supposed to plug back into. Any help?
Issues again.
Error code 16 and 44
Have a new ECT sensor on the way (had to be ordered in)
O2 sensor isn't ordered yet but will be when I can.
Anyways car goes into limp mode???
The motor gets real hot and loses power. If you try and apply throttle it cuts out and backfires and...
As the title suggests.
I have a V8 manual exec and I can get my hands on a HSV clubsport but its auto. Obviously I have all the necessary parts for a conversion but I need to know if my ecu will work in the clubby or will it be pointless as I'll lose the better tune?
Please help
Had a bit of an issue today where I'm assuming the lifters weren't getting oil but it has gone away. Looks like I might be getting a cam and valvetrain upgrade sooner than I had planned
Well the paint cleared up a little but there has been bugs landing on it. (Problem with painting outside I guess)
Went for roadworthy inspection yesterday and hot pulled up on
1: Battery Clamp (had it in the car but not put in place)
2 Windscreen wipers and washer motor
3 front swaybar link...
Yeah I only took one out. Just found the issue. Was just having a complete brain fart and trying to assemble the brakes wrong. It's in the right spot. Thanks for your quick response blokes
Almost certain it is as the tailshaft and opposite wheel both spin when I turn my side to push it in. Like I said it goes all the way bar the last onch. Possibly even less than that. Just read somewhere else about part of the assembly being left behind? Any ideas what they are talking about...
Hey guys, just curious as to why my axle won't go back in. Changed bearing and seal today and axle stops about an inch short of where it should be. Any ideas
I know this is an old thread but my VR has cruise control fitted and it doesn't work. Cant get any of the lights working on the dash, however, when I push the lower button (no idea what button does what as there is no markings and this is the first car I've ever had with cruise control) I can...
I stuffed up the bonnet and roof with the ckear as I couldn't see where I had or had not painted and have left lines all through it as you can see on the bonnet in the 4th pic
6 tins Australian Export Grey Primer -2 coats
6 tins Australian Export Gloss Black - 2 coats
3 tins Australian Export Clear - 1 coat
I ran out of light for another coat of clear so will rub it back with 1200/1500 and recoat the clear at a later date.
Thinking about doing the paint properly...
So got the paint on today. Not bad for a rattle can job. Not looking forward to looking at it in the morning in natural light, but it should get through the roadworthy inspection now
I've got engine covers. Waiting to use my bosses little bead blaster and then going with the "very cliché" red. Was gonna leave the bananas as they are because (eventually) I'll replace the manifold. About to spray primer on and then back into the sanding.
As for the air filter I've got the...
New tint is in. Only the TH35 but I it looks nice.
Decide to copy someone else off of here and smooth out the arse a bit while i was at it. She is bogged and sanded for a (rough as guts to get through roadworthy) paint job
That thing about choosing a cam that's too big is exactly what I want to avoid.
When you say they are monsters do you mean that in a good way or a bad way?
I don't know how to PM but at the moment it doesn't really matter because I think I'm going to try and find more info on roller cam...
It sat in the North Queensland sun for a year. Runs nice now, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, new spark plugs, fresh oil and filter.
Getting tint done today and finishing bog and spray job
Yeah I saw that and it's in the rev range I want to use. I want to make power from idle and not interested in revving the guys out out of it.
Is it possible to build a 304 (or stroker) purely for low rpm torque rather than high end power?
Dunno how yet mate. Car is a bit rough. Currently giving it a rough as guts bog and paint job to get through roadworthy. Will be doing pics and details as I go.....if I learn how to put pics
Cheers mate. Doing it this way might take a while as I've only just got the car on the road so don't wanna take it straight back off. Sounds like the way to do it though. Except I am not confident in "getting the cam degreed right". No idea what it means let alone how to do it. Thankyou everyone...
Would pistons be ebough to raise compression or should I look into getting heads/block machined? Really trying to keep the motor in car. Prefer to have the car out of action for absolute minimum amount of time
That's what I'm aiming for. Good to hear it's economical too. Is it a off the shelf cam or custom grind? Also how does it sound? What sort of exhaust, single or twin? Would love some details on parts you've used mate.
So the general consensus is they're runbish? I didn't realise they would be so expensive. Are they needed straight away or could it wait till a little further down the track?
So far I've been told to get exhaust and cam and tune to start with
Cheers mate. So can anyone answer what can be done to the T5 box to make it handle more power. Not sure how much they can handle stock but don't want to break it. Also a single 3" exhaust will work for a 304, 355 or 383? Don't want to have to buy 2 different exhausts
Can roller tappets and cams be put in a VR block? Found this as a start and I already like the sounds of a roller cam setup haha
Flat Tappet Cams vs. Roller Cams - Lunati Power
And this http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=100/prd100.htm