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He's found 5v on the signal low wire and we don't know why

did you solve anything? Im taking mine back to the mechanic and we are going to look over it again...

Ended up guessing that the main switch must have a dirty contact on the power leg of the up switch Pulled it apart and it was definately in need of some attention. Cleaned them both up and it works again.

cheers now im more confused. why am I getting less volts one way than the other if they end up using the same wires... just in a different direction... makes me think the main switch is the problem

My lh rear door power window wont go up. tested: - The other side rear door switch. - A whole new wiring loom for the door - Another motor - Tested and getting power in the main switch unit. the switch that activates the window has continuity when pressing for up and down. the only thing I can...

I thought about running a new set of wires and just splicing them in where they connect at each end but just haven't even had the time to look at it lately

ive ran mine disconnected and it drive better :eek: i feel like since they played with it the other sensor stopped working so its almost like a wiring issue... i need to get hold of a scan tool and do some testing

Nope. I went back to the guy and he was going to look into it a bit but probably hasn't done anything. haven't had time to get back there and be a squeeky wheel!

Sorry bit delayed had a starter, gearbox and ring gear to deal with on another car! Finally got that sorted. So the bloke I took it to is actually a tat member. There's 2 in my area and he is listed as one of them.

I already paid to get it misdiagnosed I don't have the funds to do it again any time soon.

They were showing not ready and ~450mv on my last scan before unplugging them. It seems to drive the same now as it did before unplugging them

thats what the left one was doing before I took it to a mechanic.... they didnt resolve it.... now both are doing it.....

done another few runs with them unplugged. its now cleared the idle up and is driving the same as it was with them plugged in. it even gets the error code at the same time. the last time I put them on the scan tool they basically sat at the 450mv and didn't really move no matter the revs or how...

Yes after disconnecting battery Driving seemed ok but idling is worse. Second trip idle was better but still not as good as it was

Does disconnecting the battery for an hr clear the fuel trim? First drive with them disconnected it really didn't like idling

Drive with the o2 sensors disconnected?

Any reason it displays a 6 digit pin code for the radio? Do I only take the first 4 or the last 4?

As stock as it can be no mods Oem head unit I done a continuity test? Read all 0's Plugs and leads oem replacments about 25,000km ago maybe 8 years?

Runs the same idles ok to start with then gives a slight cough every so often. If giving it the beans it still pulls hard.

It's been driving "fine" with this issue for about 5 years (doesn't like to idle for too long before it doesn't idle great but doesn't stall and definately running too rich.) Been trying to fix it myself and felt like i would be throwing money into a pit.... then when I got a decent tax check I...

That's the plan Where's the radio code located on the autel? I did have a look to see but couldn't see anything under the radio menu. 100% stock No exhaust leaks that I can tell and mechanic also discounted it. What's the best way to check an exhaust leak?

Scan tool... Got all these other issues too not sure if it's because it come from an adventra or not....? The guy said they are both high level and would work

Ok so swapped it all over and still have the same issue! Any ideas? Also lost the radio code since I had everything disconnected. Now sounds like a pain in my ass to get the code! Need licence, rego, go in person to a dealer and pay $38! Is there some way around this! Over $1100 into this...

cheers, got the vin number, What's that used for? if I need to link the bcm or pim to something else?

ok thanks ill hit them up. where would you find the bcm security number?

so after paying $600 for the mechanics to tell me they think its the pcm which is what I told them I thought it was. I followed up about getting it repaired. The bloke I rang said they have never had a pcm issue like this before. not saying its not the pcm but in all the pcm repairs they have...

mine comes on every time i drive it after 5 minutes (actually after 5 minutes of the ignition being on) have cleared it but it come back straight away. the scan tool doesn't even get a reading from the o2 sensors now and you can tell it runs very rich! Its almost looking like by the time I fix...

Hey guys thought I'd do a do a follow up post. finally got around to organising a mechanic and then it was a 3 month wait! and then took me a bit to get on here and post it. the best they can conclude its a fault in the computer and to send it away to get repaired. now to organise that!

Haven't had time to look at that yet. But noticed something else. Had the ignition on but hadn't started it and the engine light come on after about 5 minutes. Can't see anything engine related that would be causing it if it's not running. Makes me think it's something wrong with the...

Filled it over full with 5w 30 and it seems to have fixed it.

Cheers I'll have a look

Started from scratch No damage to wiring that I can see. It all still wrapped up in the black corrugated stuff. Heater has 12v earthed to the (BK/RD) in the plug. New sensor was around 5 ohms Plugged one of the old o2 sensors on and it got very hot. So I'm going to assume heater works. I...

Oil level is just over halfway between Max and min. I drove it for another 5 minutes or so before giving it a bit and that's when the light came on. I put that in as i was told 5w 30 was too thin.

Serviced the car Yesterday and decided to chuck 2 new O2 sensors in it and still has the same problem... at a loss. anyone got any other solutions? Im assuming bank 1 is left and is the passenger side?

does yours come on when driving or only when starting? my issue comes on intermitantly under acceleration. sometimes it wont do it for a few weeks other times it does it the next day.

Gave it a service yesterday, new 10w60 Castrol edge oil and a new genuine oil filter. Old oil looked fine. Was dark brown but no different to how it normally is on an oil change. let it drain out for about an hour before I put the new stuff in. had it idle for about 5 mintues then took it for a...

I don't see it being the 130 globes. Being halogen wouldn't it need more watts to produce more heat? It's 130% more lumens not wattage. See attached specs on the narva 130 Says safe for polycarbonate lenses and no increase in power or heat.

So after doing nothing the oil light hasn't come on for like 2 weeks. I'd just been driving like a grandpa. So had been trying to get the check oil light this week and nothing. It only gets me to work and back and is a 5 min drive through town. Took it out on the open road driving like a...

cheers, will keep an eye on it and do a flush and thicker oil when I'm due unless it comes on more often. only doing about 10km a day atm. any preferred flush? Can I access the oil pickup screen if I drop the sump? can I drop the sump enough to do it?

I normally run the castrol edge 10w60 but got 5L of 5w30 for $2 on some supercheap price error a few years back and thought I should use it up. It's ran 5w 30 for 2 years and 10w 60 before that. changed yearly at under 5000k/yr Normally around 2000rpm when it gets the check oil light.