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I would try another mechanic, maybe his scan tool was not compatible.

Probably plugs or leads for the surging. All dash lights on, alternator probably over charging, check voltage at the battery terminals with the engine running. Voltage should be around 14 - 14.4 volts, anything much higher or lower is no good, replace voltage regulator. Overcharging for too long...

Maybe the globe holder has some corrosion on the contacts or a loose wiring plug.

It is normal for those to come on when starting the car. When they come on at other times it sound like the symptoms of a faulty ABS module, a very common problem. Next time they come on, unplug the ABS module and see if the other lights turn off.

There would have been nylon bushes there originally.

Probably need to fabricate some sort of bush to fit the pin to take up the slack in the hole.

I don't know about those leads but always like to get a well known brand.

I'm going with leads. Whenever I've had a miss under load over the years, many, many years it's always been a bad lead. It could also be a plug though. If you haven't changed the leads in years it wouldn't hurt to do so.

I'd be looking at the motor and wiring for the motor that operates forward and backward.

Looking at listings on ebay it appears that VTII, VX and VY are the same. Yours being a 98 model is probably a series 1, so I'm going to say the racks are different.

It looks to me like your bonnet is too far back, it should be in line with the guard. I know it has nothing to do with your question, but I thought I would point it out anyway. Edit: Forget what I said, on second glance it appears that your bonnet might be open.

Software on ELM STREET, is good and cheap but you will need a laptop. https://www.envyouscustoms.com/product/software-elm-street/

Mine is held on with the nuts pictured above, the screws are part of the engine cover bracket.

Probably a faulty ABS module, do a search it's been discussed numerous times.

I agree with vc commodore, it sounds a blown head gasket. At 380,000 it is getting on a bit and I don't know whether I would spend the money to get it repaired or buy a lower k engine to put in the car. If you could replace the head gaskets yourself it would not cost too much, but it would be...

How many kilometers has your motor done and can you elaborate on how it "died".

Replacing the tie rod end won't fix it, the seal in the rack is the culprit. A reconditioned rack would be your best bet.

Sounds a bit like the symptoms of a faulty CAS (Crank Angle Sensor). Do search on that.

Have you checked the number plate light globes?

Are you sure that it is fuel from the exhaust and not water, which is normal

Probably just wearing out due to age and use. Might be time for a new one.

When it comes to sensors, a lot of the aftermarket sensors are crap. I always like to go genuine if possible, or at least a well known brand. The sensor might be fine, there could be a dirty connector of faulty wiring, or something else entirely. What was the code...

Try this, it might help. Thanks to lout who posted this earlier. REAR LAMP FAILURE WARNING SYSTEM BULB RELEARN PROCEDURE This procedure must be carried out if the battery has been disconnected. Ensure battery is fully charged and functional before carrying out the following procedure: 1. Ensure...

Never heard of that.

It could be a worn bearing in the tensioner pulley, is there any play in it? Reading your post it looks like you've changed the tensioner and not the pulley.

They can't run without them. The LS1 PCM is located in the engine bay, on the passenger side. There should be a heat shield in front of it because it is very close to the exhaust manifold.

Now that light bit makes sense.

Yes, a similar setup but the one going to the heater tap is thinner and it connects to a metal connector. Could do with a better photo of the actual hose.

I'm assuming the connection at the manifold has been modified at some stage because it should be black.

I'm thinking at the rear of the intake manifold but the only thing strange is the colour of the broken bit in the end of the hose, because the connection at the back of the manifold is black.. Edit: I'm a tad late and I'm sure Krusing is correct.

It sounds like the classic faulty ABS module problem. You can disconnect the ABS module by unplugging the electrical connector, you can then check if the warning lights are still on, if not, then you probably a stuffed ABS module.

Could be an immobiliser issue. Is the red light in the mode switch flashing when you try to start is. Try putting the key in the ignition, then press the unlock button on the remote (while key is still in the ignition) then try to start it straight away.

If it comes on when you hit the brakes it's a brake light issue, if it comes onwhen you have the lights on it's a parking light issue.

Are you sure you replaced the right switch, there are two, one for the brake lights and one for cruise control. If I remember correctly the brake switch is the lower one on the brake pedal.

Maybe a young child had access to an open oil filler cap. Thay like to do things like that.

When you look for a replacement you might want to call it an indicator stalk.

I believe the foam backing becomes a crumbling mess so it can't be re-glued. I have the same problem at the moment.

Car upholstery place will be your best bet to purchase the fabric.

Possibly a CV joint on one of the driveshafts.

Not sure what you mean by that, the centre air con vents are part of the dash surround and not physically connected to anything else.