Search results

Thanks mate appreciate it, I’d rather fix it for good but over the weekend will idle it and see how it behaves. To be honest I’d clean it thoroughly and leave it be instead of messing the harness but who knows what could happen in future and I’m not too keen to replace the entire harness because...

Well checked coils and all 3 have strong blue spark, no miss anymore after turning it off and on again. I’m a bit skeptical driving it if enough resistance builds then kaput once more… it’s been idling for the past 30mins normally

I just cleaned the DFI plug with some contact cleaner from work and it fired up but has bit of a miss

Quick question before I start cutting and soldering. Also side note, pretty hard to depin the DFI plug looks like a solder job unfortunately (entire plug). My question is: does the CAS send signal to the DFI and then leads and therefore spark plugs OR does it work opposite way? It could be CAS...

Don’t have any diy wreckers in Sydney anymore. I’m waiting for a second hand plug on the way from eBay so I’ll work around with that when it comes

My issue would be the burnt pin though, so I would need to remove it from the plug housing. The wires aren’t kinked but I will see when I take the insulation off. If I can depin from the connecter plug I can cut and crimp together the new wire with the better condition pin.

So you never repaired the plug? What did you do to get the car running? Since the DFI plug has so many wires tight together in the harness, Is it better to solder or crimp and heat shrink each wire? (Planning to fit a used plug I bought so might try depin it if not then attach new plug to harness)

How did you depin from the plug?

So the Ute decided to die randomly with no warning or anything just dead… after towing it home I noticed spark was the issue. After replacing few spare DFI plates and coils it turns out the plug has one corroded pin. I have seen patch looms and don’t mind soldering a used plug but it’s only one...

I got a tank with pump off a 99 WH caprice would it fit direct into an 02 Calais

External Z156 I think, I replaced only few months ago

Never heard of that or seen it I’ve been under the car multiple times with diff, gearbox, exhaust and driveshaft out and never seen an external filter besides the standard one near the tank

Tank is at half, what do you suggest to determine fuel delivery? Cheers

Yeah so I guess even if you hear the pump priming doesn’t mean there’s pressure and I think it’s around 60kpa at the rail

@losh1971 Will be getting a pump and see how it goes from there but it’s odd how I can hear the pump priming but no fuel coming out. I also removed the pipe and cranked the car with the feed hose removed from the rail and not a single drop of fuel came out so safe to say the pump is cooked

In tank filter only it’s an 02 Calais

@losh1971 I drained it from the feed hose that goes to the rail, the yellow was the colour of the fuel, pipe was see through

So turns out 4 year old fuel doesn’t work anymore… I drained the tank by bridging the relay and worked okay but noticed barely any pressure, also after bridging for a while fuel stopped coming out. I can still hear the pump whirring while bridged but no fuel seen, is it safe to assume fuel pump...

Just an update guys the cluster keeps dying, have to keep smacking around the dash or cluster to get it going. When I wiggled the cluster plug it was in good nice and snug any ideas why it’s not suppling power?

Yeah sweet as changed over the studs no dramas cheers

H How can you remove the studs? Grinder?

Just had a go at it and can confirm ABS wheel bearings for front are one sided only, only 2 bolt holes lined up

Okay thanks mate, the wheel studs on the RHS snapped off so have to replace the bearing. I tried lining up the bearing last night and it doesn’t work with the dowel location and ABS sensor hole unfortunately, I think only non-ABS are either sided

Has anyone cut and sanded the locating dowel on the wheel bearing hub face (steering knuckle)? I have a spare LHF wheel bearing only but my RHS has failed. Thought either sides were interchangeable. Need it sorted urgently so would want to know whether it’s worthwhile to do. Cheers

Alright well… I’m speechless I had a crack at looking at the cluster pin outs since this car keeps me awake at night. While I had the ignition on I wiggled the cluster plug and everything lit up… I started the car and checked battery voltage and received 14.4 sweet volts…. I just can’t get my...

Okay I’ll check out the cluster pin outs and get back to you cheers for your help

So it’s not pin 6? I’ve never touched that ground only when I took out the charging system harness but it’s back on there right

Does your alternator charge the battery or is your cluster just dead?

I have SOE not much data for cluster or power supply in interior, mainly engine sensors and o2

Okay I will check out the cluster when I get time

These chunky ones the fusible links?

I just confirmed fuse 11 works (both sides) when park lights are on Fuse 21 works (both sides) ignition off constant 12V Looks like cluster board is finished? Or the fusible links?

I hope the PCB board in the cluster isn’t fried but I don’t know how that would happen with no power for a while then a sudden 12V spike after months since battery was disconnected

So I checked fuse 13 and 21 they only both work with ignition ON. As I mentioned before how the middle column of fuses were dead they worked with a test light with ignition ON so I guess it gets 12V when ignition is on and not constant 12V. I have confirmed every fuse under the dash works with...

Okay will do thanks Also not sure why immobiliser light flashes yet mode button does not work? Entirely different circuit? Immobiliser does disengage since the car runs. Mode and hazard buttons worked prior to job so something shorted and blew heaps of things when I connected battery...

If you could find something that would be appreciated thanks

How do you test those? The big ones in the engine bay?

Side note car had pre-existing airbag light no ABS fault and cluster worked perfect before rear main job

Engine cont BCM and fuel pump fuses were dead, replaced with new ones and still no power, checked the inputs into the fuse box no power. Car still runs and idles really weird. All other fuses working

I replaced all fuses under the dash that the test light failed them on… when I replaced and tested again nothing lit up But yes cluster has been dead since I reconnected the battery after at least 4 months. What other checks can I do for the cluster? Thanks