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I parked in an under cover car park (no rain so a flat floor). Checked the level after doing my shopping, it was sitting a bee's dick just under the full mark, I'm happy with that :) Thanks heaps to all of you for your contributing comments, I've learned quite a bit, drive safe ;)

I drained out 1 litre and checked on level surface (checked with spirit level) Now it's at the half way mark, so I added 500 ml, should be about right now. Having just checked the official holden owner's manual in the glovebox again, it says 7.2 litres inc filter in the V6 LWR (approx!)

Very good advice which I will certainly follow next time ;)

I tried to get a syringe to extract some oil out through the dipstick tube but could not fine line small enough to fit in the tube, the VF dipstick is tiny. I will just partially undo the sump plug and take it out that way. I have only covered about 160 km's with it over full, hopefully it had...

It is listed at 7.2 litres for general services including filter

Cheers for all the comments, to be on the safe side I will drain 500 ml out and go from there. I have only driven it 160 kms since the oil change so shouldn't have done much harm. Getting to the sump plug is a pain with the splash plate in the way. Is there another way to drain 500 ml out of it...

Not until I had put in the required amount of oil as per book

What gets me is that I put in the amount of oil the service book said to, a bit less actually 7.1 litres instead of the recommended 7.2 Litres. Could it be that the dip stick for the lpg models is the same as the dipstick for the petrol models? This would explain why it is showing above the max...

I did an oil change on my VF evoke LPG V6. The book said 7.2 litres with new filter (7.0 litres for petrol V6 models) I put in a bit less to allow for slight fall on driveway which would show inaccurate reading on dipstick. But later when I moved it to level ground in a car park I checked the...

Nice catch ;)

Cheers for your answers guys, I thought it was to do with the short 1st gear, the SV6 engine's is still pretty impressive though.

Sure makes a difference when they are both actually racing! Heaps of VT's, Magnas and Camrys have 'dragged off' my xr6 turbo, I just wasn't aware of it at the time lol. Just got rid of my CBR600 F4i, the 600RR's are one of the quickest 600's, close to a litre bike, got a Hornet 919 now, old...

I completely overlooked the "Fully Sik cop chip" there's an extra 100 rwkw's right there!

I was at a set of lights a couple of cars back from the front, the light went green and a VE SS takes off like crazy with a VZ exec P plater next to him. I kind of chuckled to myself thinking "P plater in V6 VZ trying to race a VE SS lol." Bugger me the VZ got ahead of the VE SS and they were...

Yeah it's serviceable, I did it easily as long as you have a bench and vice. The front rubber tailshaft coupling doesn't need to be undone while it's on the car, the whole tail shaft simply slides out rearwards from the transmission once the three bolts attaching it to the diff housing are...

To get the tailshaft out all that's needed is to undo the three bolts where it attached to the diff housing and it will slide out, may need to undo the cat back section of the exhaust to get it back in but the whole job is really easy. Hopefully someone else in my situation will find this...

Undid the bolts no problems, the three at the back where the tailshaft attaches to the diff housing were very tight as they should be but came undone with a breaker bar with a bit of effort, they undid just the same way that most nuts and bolts undo, didn't need top touch the E20 torx bolts, the...

I've downloaded a manual but it says I practically have to dismantle the entire car to get the tailshaft out........ie remove exhaust flange bolts undo transmission mounts lower transmission, support transmission with a jack undo torx E20 (from Vx onwards) using special socket to remove rubber...

I've searched and seached and cannot find anything which tells me which bolts to undo to remove the vy v6 tail shaft (I'm replacing the centre bearing) One source said to undo the bolts (at the diff end) but not the nuts because they are locked into place, but then another source says remove...

I got one through a really great guy on Ebay, he is programing it to my km's which are a lot higher than whats on the new cluster, he is also programming police mode so I can have the full time large digital speedo. Once it arrives and it's all hooked up I'll let everyone know how it goes for...

I've located a VY Calais series 1 cluster but it's from a V8

I am thinking of putting a Vy Calais series 1 cluster in to my Vy exec series 1 which as far as I know shouldn't be a problem as long as the Calais was a V6 (but I think most of the vy calais v6's were supercharged) Someone told me over the phone that I need to match the numbers on the back of...

And a BIG thanks to Immortality for ACTUALLY ANSWERING the thread query by pointing out that the dipstick tube hole in the block is hidden behind the knock sensor shield thus making it difficult to find once the exhaust manifold etc is on ;) Best to either leave the dip stick tube in place or...

Thanks for the tip - but he was of no help to me. I'm assuming his car knowledge is better than his manners! (welcome to the internet) But I did kind of put it out there, anyway cars all sorted now, cracked block so it needed another engine and my XR6T is also back on the road (fun times ahead...

Well I've been driving the vy for a few days now and so far no smoke on start up and no traces of oil from the throttle body. I think they have honored the warranty and have fixed it. I have said from the start they are a good mob :-)

I got it back today and so far no smoke on start up and no major oil drips from the throttle body, they said they think it's fixed and that the pcv valve was jammed shut, he said that if I were to remove the oil filler cap while the engine is idling it would begin to stall. I had tried this...

There appears to be a hose running from the pcv valve up to the throttle body, that hose may be the source of oil getting up into the throttle body if the pcv valve is jammed.....maybe. The intermittent nature of the smoke blowing on start up tends to rule out valve stem seals which would more...

The car is with them at the moment, they have kept it overnight. They feel that the problem is the PCV valve not operating causing oil to get up into the throttle body and thus into the combustion chamber upon start ups but intermittently. One of them said "that's what you get when you put a car...

Spoken to him, he said sounds like valve stem seals, he's looking at it next week, I had no time to leave it with him this week, now that I've got the Ford back on the road I can leave it with him for a day.

I didn't do the compression test because I need to adapt my gauge over to a screw in fitting, the push in type is a pain to use and not accurate. I wonder where I could get the fittings from. I also noticed fresh oil on the left hand side rocker cover, it appears that fresh oil has been leaking...

I did the blowby test as you said and the engine sucked the piece of cardboard and held it against the oil filler hole. The idling dropped considerably until I covered the filler hole with cardboard then the idling rose back to normal. I haven't unscrewed the PCV and shaken it though. Another...

I thought about that to but it appears to have used up/burnt about 1 litre of oil in 4 weeks. Is there a way of testing the PCV?

Yeah, he didn't even mention the 30 days thing, he sounded a bit concerned and suggested valve stem seals and is looking at it later this week. If it were a 30 day warranty he would have pretty much said sorry not my problem. As I keep saying they are a pretty good mob who have been there for...

Cheers CONROD, there isn't any visible smoke when applying throttle after coasting down a hill, only on start up and only sometimes. I started it this morning and nothing no smoke, then again this afternoon and there was some blue smoke. I phoned the guy and he immediately said it sounds like...

I've just checked the fine print on the terms and conditions "All labour charges are not included in the warranty"............well repairing an engine fault is mostly labour charges.......valve guides and assoc components don't cost much at all! Warranty on receipt states 3 months but I can...

Ok, I just started it again after sitting in my drive for an hour or so and heaps of smoke came out which then drifted over into the neighbours house, it smelled rotten and it was blueish in colour as far as I could see. The oil level appears to have dropped to, but i can't tell until tomorrow...

I did find that at the same time the heater fan would only blow on defrost and would not blow to face or foot, so I checked under the bonnet and found a vacuum line going into the plenum had fallen off. When I fixed that the air flow solenoid worked again and it stopped blowing smoke. I thought...

Ok, so I got a changeover V6 ecotec engine fitted to my VY mid April. It is a quite low mileage engine and runs fine but had some initial troubles with it stalling while on gas which ended up being a damaged equaliser tube which was replaced by the gas tuner which fixed the stalling problem. Now...

I've PM'd a visitor message to you statey1975