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here is my bucket of bolts... its a genuine vb sle.was factory 308 4 speed twin exhaust to.but was a stripped shell when i got it

i can ell u the specs to get something like mine.254 rwhp.out of a 253.makes for serious fun with a 4 speed and3.55 gears!

cruising out on the highway u shouldnt really need your fans going the air flowing thru the radiator will be enuff if your harmonic balancer is out of whack ur timing will be out and this can cause it.so can a to rich/to lean mix. to lean creates heat and to rich can cause fuel to still be...

yeah well u can get a 253 to embarress a 308! the joy of a 253 is it works well with many standard parts.much better than the 308 does.heads only need a mild clean up and slight port work factory 4 barrel manifold and retuned carby is sweet.a nice cam and u will have a cracker

yes front and back are the same.just not left and right.why would u remove then refit a stuffed door handle?go to ther wreckers probably cost u 10 bucks for another one

have to agree.mongrel of a job!

mate ill dig around in my pile of junk for ya.i know i have a couple of them and they aernt broken.and no u cant have the brand new old stock ones i used on my own VB!

there is a better way around it.the light is turned on and off by creating an earth for it.the wire comes down out of the B pillar on the drivers side and is white.if u cut it there and run 2 bits of wire upto the dash somewhere with a switch.just join one end of the wires to the dash to each...

the neoprene seal was in early blocks later ones mid HQ went to rope seal.if u get a rope seal right u will only get a odd drip here or there.getting them to not leak at all is nigh on impossible.

i had the same problem with a trimatic in my old 6 pot vK.if u eld it in first it would be fine.if u put it in drive however when it should of shifted in2nd or top etc it wouldnt.back off and it would go neutral and wouldnt pick up 1st till u got to the rppm u backet off at.say if u backed off...

yeah if its just the group a jobbies just about any fibreglass company has them. if u mean the group c racing ones well good luck.these were the vks with big flares etc

go for an aftermarket bosch one.they made em for holden.dunno if they still available from holden though. ive got an aftermarket one and its fine.the trick is to use one finger only on it.

ive heard that acls neoprene seal for V6's is the way to go and trim it to suit

how do u work out what gear ur usingcurrently? simple climb under the car undo the bolt pull the cable out and look. holden still do some of the gears.the 25 teeth light blue one is as rare as rocking horse **** cause it was the least used one. some gearbox shops might have em sitting around

id say go 2 1/4 inch exhaust.for a tougher note id get a barrel type muffler and put it right at the back with no muffler under the car.if it is for some reason to loud u can put a hotdog etc where the normal muffler will be having the exhaust exiting straight from the muffler with no piping...

uh yeah post pics cause im not sure what u talking about

cept for the front apron panel.its different on a VK to a VH.u can do it but u will have these big gaping holes that are normally covered by the bumper bar on vks

u will more than likely have rego problems with a red motor in a vh.besides the emissions gear aint much anyways. u will need new radiator a suitable tailshaft.depends on which box u get.all 253;s are trimatic pattern.but a 6 cyl tailshaft is shorter than a V8 version.not as strong either.u...

sump and oil pickup r different as r the engine mounts.change them and it will fall in there.then u need gearbox radiator tailshaft wiring etc

for u to get 400hp out of a 253 its gonna be seriosuly cranky.ive got a touch over 300 out of mine and its cranky no way would i wanna drive a crankier version with a manual a stalled up trimatic is ur best friend cheaper than a tuff manual.ive destroyed 2 4 speeds with mine and a T5...

there were 2 models of heater system in the vb.if uve got the fan in the engine bay its a peaice of piss unplug the wires.there is a screw either side at the top.now around the side of the units near the firewall u will find 3 nuts.undo these pop the assembly off and unplug a couple of wires...

just get some clip on clip off covers.spray the INSIDE of the covers with gloss black paint and when it comes night lift the bonnet and unclip em painting the inside stops stonechips etc on the paint.

u can get aftermarket for the front but not for the rears.original is ur only choice there.do some searching ebay and wreckers u will find em.just remember to get the complete harness and switch etc

jsyt grab some original vb-vk ones. the fronts bolt in with ease.the rears r a cable setup and r a mongrel of a job

also make sure the vac modulator is working properly.if it aint it causes all sorts of drama

as long as its got no rust id say grab it.thats a steal!

yeah 500 sounds on the money.get some pacemakers which r expensive and a 2.25 inch exhaust with a good muffler not an el cheapo and u should notice a decent increase. while mine is a 253 going to pacies and single 3 inch system over no name extractors and basic 2.5 inch system it took it from...

like ive said built the 10 bolter with some new parts and stronger vk pin and u should have no dramas. or a vl turbo diff.a 9 inch is good but unwarranted for ur application as they are heavy and sap power. nopw if u had a lot more power then yeah get one but not required for what u got...

low as possible with out being hassled by cops hey? FE2 is your freind if u want to avoid the cops. u can go lower but its ur risk as to a canary or not.

yep as stated cant beat factory manuals if u can get them.ive got a factory VB one and the VH supplement goes into detail the others can only dream of!

u need to maintain 100mm griund clearance all round.with those ultralow kings forget it.my old vk with them the exaust was about 85mm off the ground.15mm to low. u also need to retain or meant to 2/3 suspension travel and no cut bump stops. but most go off the 100mm rule and headlight...

ok the float level: with the engine running unscrew the little sight screw on the side of the float bowl.the fuel should just trickle out.if it doesnt or it pours outits wrong.on the float adjustment back off the lock off screw and use a spanner to adjust the nut to adjust the float...

little known fact a lot of it comes down to the service manager at a dealership.ive seen personally one guy get knocked back on warranty for a clutch in a gen3 because the service manager didnt like the guy! used the driver abuse excuse. some guys will tolerate some mods where others...

the basis is udidnt need to make the noise that u did and therefore they can book u for it.ive been done years ago for the same thing.no tyre screech no loss of control just hard acceleration cop it sweet.the fine they could of gave u is much worse.sure u would like an undue noise fine rather...

yeah king springs are good.but i used to be in the trade and used to lower cars a bit.if u have a V8 i would not use them in the front.ok if u have a 6 not a V8.if uve ever seen HDTUNO and how low it is well it uses these.and the rears aernt that low for ultralows.better of using pedders spring...

common on v8's.u need to reinforce the subframe

600 holley? do u wanna drown it? a 350 holley is to large for a stock motor and bout what u want when worked a weber of an xe-xf falcon works much better and uses less fuel

i would nearly bank on the ignition module but they usually work or they dont.i would be checking the power connections to the coil itself and also i have seen where the connections onto the module on the dizzy were dirty and the car wouldnt start.sprayed some contact cleaner on them plugged em...

yeah common problem.they revised the relays a few times to correct this problem

yeah my vs had this problem as well.bent the tab back out for the light switch and it turns off now.stupid flimsy metal holden used to mount the switch on