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Thanks. Also sorted and changed. Look 20 minutes. Good write up OP.

i guess that's what you call it. bit of plastic on the back that is normally colour coded with the colour of the car.

how hard is it to remove the back cover on these? I have a nitrate grey one i need to put on the new one i have bought which is black?

HI. Im looking at buying a VN wagon as i had one as a younger fella. Hood lining is stuffed. How hard is it to do in the wagons? Is it more breaking pillar covers when taking off that's the issue?

im gunna say so it keeps the heat in. Coincidence why injectors fail in these things???? heat does kill a lot of parts....

Ha. Old matey has just used my picture I posted earlier in this forum for his you tube clip! Also, his cable tie is too loose. He will still feel moment in that seat I guarantee.

It is very sad. re what prices will do. Who knows. If I had that crystal ball it be on an island somewhere, not working. I just hope people don't go stupid. I'm looking for a nice unmolested VN as a daily. Good ones are commanding $4k here in Adelaide with low Kms. Probably double that now...

so far so good for me too. If there is a "shim" fix well it would be good to know about it. would also be interested to know where said "shim" is placed. On the floor between the floor and bottom rail of the seat, or within the rail itself. If mine starts moving again, it would be nice fire...

I was going to myself if the dealer said I had to wait too long to get it in. But they did it the same times as my service so did not bother. It would be very easy to do. Just need a zip tie and away you go.

ha ha yep. I remember having to change them in my old VN! small but so much slack the tensioner was useless. I also remember upgrading the tensioner to the larger series VN one too that came out in the late '89 model if memory serves me right.

they look pretty clear if you open the pic, then hit the small arrow up on the right of the pic. It right next to the 'X'

I did hear a story that oily intakes can take the octane levels out of your combustion. Not sure on its validity however...

I posted in another thread yesterday. Here is the link in think https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vf-driver-seat-base-clicking.278271/

the amount of oil I catch in mine says otherwise!!

I don't reckon my seat base was the issue as it does not move even if I jimmy something under it to look for free play.

if anyone is interested. Here is one of the fixes I had done recently.

Has anyone here actually had a transmission oil change? If so did you notice any difference? I have just hit 50k and was going to get one done at my next service in a few weeks. But not sure if its worth it.

I have a LS3 wagon. It was the full DPE set up. Extractors all the way through. It's the 3 inch stepped to 2.5 inch. I don't hear drone on mine that's noticeable anyway. It is a deep sound, and not loud on normal driving. Flog it and it's load yes, but all of them are. If you can I would...

Maybe my tune is a safe one. It would take a lot of logging/tuning to dial in enough advance and different temps before it knocks, more time than most tuners will allow. Or Is it okay to just let them knock then pull timing....? I’m no tuner so unsure.

It would still get that hot, just cool down quicker with an OTR now I reckon. Heat seems to kill power in these things, well it does in mine anyway.

correct. WOT timing with cold intake is way more advanced than WOT with hot temps, and you can feel the difference in power between the two 100%. That's what my torque app is telling me anyway, far less KR too when cold. 10-15c above ambient? That's with a standard airbox? I honestly thought...

Once the oil is up to temp, say 100 degrees and you stop, it will hang around that (-20%)for 30 mins then start dropping. BUT depends on how hot/cold it is ambient. I just normally use it for first start up. Adelaide hills is about 2 degrees in the morning this time of year. Takes a good 10-15...

depends on the driving conditions and intake. I log mine with and it has an OTR. Freeway/urban cruising will see my intake temps maybe 5-6 degrees above outside temp. WOT will see it drop to ambient temp within a few seconds. Heavy traffic driving, I can see my intake temps 20 degrees above...

do yourself a favor mate. Buy a $5 ELM Bluetooth connector. Buy torque app (Android one is what I use) Import GM PIDS for free. The above will tell you any issues. If ESP has come up, it will have a code in there. Least then you can tell Holden what the issue is and get to fix, instead of...

found the problem Holden put my maf on backwards after service yesterday..... fuk me dead guess it was causing all the issues all injectors at 14ohms

I'll get a multimeter on them tonight I have development a rougher idle o2 readout are not as consistent stft always negative greater than 10% something is up

I'll join this club now stft all over the joint no esp on dash but below screen shot from torque app says misfire 2016 model 30k

Cool Can we get wb 02s to replace ours? Re street racing. All good, does not bother me Everyone has done it at least once, anyone who denies that needs to self check

Thanks mate. Its more of an interest/hobby sort of thing for me as opposed to getting too serious. getting a WB would be for all the serious tuners, but i'm guessing you can still use the o2 sensors as the same tool, just not as accurate?

true. ltft is just the average. my stft swing from - to + with 10% so happy with that. I want to get into this tuning thing but don't know where to start. have an auto cal and efi live used when I had my tune done. I know how to read tunes. log them and load them no idea how to even start...

Good to see they came to the party. Least you figured it out using your torque app too. I use it on mine and my O2 voltages are consistent on both banks , as is my STFT's. LTFT must have been switched off by my tuner as can only get a read out on them when I put the standard tune back in before...

What sort of timing advance are you guys with tuned L3's seeing. Just curious as I monitor mine with my Torque app. I'm seeing up to 40 degrees under light load cruising around. Then around 18-20 degrees under load/higher RPM depending on intake temps. Anyone else monitor this sort of stuff?

you sir have a great Australian made vehicle I VN wagon has more street cred than any other holden built post 1989

no you cant. Will sound good. Mind you only heard when bolted to headers.

it's a re badged defilippo exhaust they made the said system that tapers from 3 inch to 2.5 inch for walking shaw

yep. Hindsight is a beautiful thing. Re headers, don't reckon cats move so might be alright? Stepped would mean a changing diameter along the length of the header to the collector. Maybe 1 7/8 to 2'?

correct. That's why I did it to my first wagon. Mostly looks and so Holden did not get funny when went into servicing. Warranty issues I mean. They did not really care in the end. The 340 KW headers are very hard to find in Adelaide. I was just lucky to see someone advertise HSV headers and...

I had the first option on my series 1 wagon. Have the second to last on my series 2 wagon. DPE system, but merges from 3 inch to 2.5 inch at the centre. My current system shits all over the 340 HSV system I had in my series 1 wagon. Both in performance and sound. Yes the LS3 is a bigger...

Jarp and Bbunnys. Very similar results. AFR's on Bbunnys looks a lot more consistent though. weird

yeah, dunno about SC. HSV's maybe with all the upgraded running gear to handle the added power, but how long will the old stocko last with pretty much double the output? Plus that would be a $15k job surely. The misses would castrate me if I dropped that in mine. $5k for a cam I can swindle...