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on the ecotec the dfi controls spark until engine starts can your scan tool check 18x and 32x cam/crank signals at ecu

If you modify the wiring to the lock up solenoid you will have a lot more slip you need to replace that torque converter asap or you will be getting a whole auto replaced most likely too late already

unless you have replaced a computer it should all still be linked

as @Lex suggested have you confirmed mode light is behaving

whack a test light or multimeter on positive to injectors and see if it is dropping positive or ecu switched grounds were plugs firing consistently or did you stop after the first spark or two

check spark on all spark plugs triple check spark plug firing order is wired correctly

what was the ladies original fault stalled and would not start? bought car as a non runner? intermittent problems for a long time? or one morning just decided it would not start? have you tried spare key?

which engine how have you bypassed security and why, is there something else you need to tell us check voltage to injectors but i would be suspecting a fuel delivery issue

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2012/SB-10043829-6448.pdf

blocked catalytic converter? what rpm is showing when you experience problem is CEL on

can you clarify do you mean doesnt crank first try or cranks normally but does not start first try

just want to make sure that you are aware the display is dimmer at night time than during the day or do you actually mean backlighting turns on/off incorrectly

i would not use narva globes if you paid me to use them buy phillips https://www.philips.com.au/c-p/12258XVPS2/x-tremevision-plus-headlight-bulb

try pressing unlock on remote prior to bridging relay you may have 2 faults going on

how deep did it go in the floods

you need to test only the positive wire if you measure the whole harness 800ma plus neg 800ma will show as zero

when you add gauges to the christmas tree that usually indicates the alternator is overcharging

are you talking professional scan tool and genuine keyfob or those aftermarket rubbish MAP fobs if the MAP style then yes , they are garbage

i would start by disconnecting the aerial wiring

most likely your replacement abs is faulty try unplugging abs and see how you go

have you felt the vibration when a wheel is not balanced that is around 1500 rpm now imagine that under your feet at 5000 rpm it will grenade and tear your car in half

tech 2 cylinder balance test

you are a good bloke Lex

how much will it cost to buy a "new" car my wifes VXii has 420,000km and going strong

so stop doing skids

LIM gaskets dont cause burst hoses/radiator so either a coincidence or more likely head gaskets

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/143083588558?itmmeta=01HVCMXXPMT24GSWESWJMR02GH&hash=item2150724bce:g:-4UAAOSwgQ9VsyU6&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0IGX%2FncnEtOZbv%2BqaiYc6GR9T%2BU8T2tCt9AfpJxS%2Be2VZHiUQ5uIZlLoGqMS7WRBlVU8AiiYdLnIWwL25rQf05bKmo35F%2FfEePSCmEocQwI7WjgD2tU6WMNOI7KTu4Vk%2BweXwWKtQs6a%2Bj6TxQS...

going to be a lot of work see here https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/electric-window-conversion-door-swap-with-bcm-bypass.265181/

check if you have the wiring loom under the console

brake codes

dosent have the 9C1 light blackout switch does it

pump is around $250 genuine and 2 hours labour

have you tried scanning for code and then fixing it properly was the abs module new or used, may have been faulty if used

i would think you have done substantial damage to the head unit time to find a new one do they do good aftermarket for series ii yet

just haunt all the sites carsales, facebook, autotrader, carsguide took me nearly a year to find my low km adventra

it will need lifters replaced which usually leads to a cam and a tune

those strips only tell you the percentage of coolant to water loosen your "radiator cap" a few turns and go to a radiator shop and have them pressure test your cooling system explain what is happening and they will advise you

you forgot to factor compunded inflation into your rental calculation