Search results

rip that chip out before it does some damage, the car wont run any worse off with the mace tune without the exhaust done i cant reccomend some 3.7 or 3.9 gears enough. the 3.7's will be more driver friendly if this is your normal daily but i wouldnt go a 3.45 as there isnt a whole lot of 'gain'...

because people are sick of hearing the same thread put up every 2nd day. to answer u it wont matter at all unless ur going a chinese ebay brand. redback/lukey will be fine.

i think this section needs a sticky on 'what exhaust for my vt/vx v6???' coz people obviously dont know where the search button is...

they look like SSL's, true ultra/SSSL would sit another inch lower

crank angle sensor will do these type of things. 'pouring' water around the sensor wont diagnose it correctly but it may get u you of trouble. to change the sensor u have to pull off the harmonic balancer and its a bit of a pain to do so its not a simple 2 minute job.

3.9 gears LSD, 1.9 rockers, exhaust, intake and tune. thatll set u back close to 3k

welcome to owning a vt/vx, 90% of us have this happen. especially if ur rides lowered to drive on shagged suspension on shitty roads lol

good luck with your conversion quest... 1. if your getting 17L/100k youve stuffed something up. check your vacc hoses and all clamps are tight for air leaks. if you put a oiled filter on it... clean the filter+maf and never oil it again. 2. there are plenty of power options with the m90 which...

ive heard from a few sources that have tried and tested the raptor charged kits on ecotecs that the HP/KW dosent match up with the 'feel' of the same sort of power ie. l67's YT kits

the stuff they use is sikaflex, its black in colour and comes in a silicone tube. u can buy it at repco/autobarn/supercheap for about $9-11. from what ive been told when my mate had to get it done was that you needed to grind back the whole area - mash the gap back to .5mm if not closer and then...

either your suspension has sagged a **** load, or your hitting speed humps as way too fast stock height on my calais i had no issues on speed humps and that was going over huge ####ers that are about 1m long and 200mm high, and that was with fairly rooted shocks/springs to begin with...

pretty sure those altezza after market ones u have to make an extra ground wire to the chassis

did u do the trans mount aswell?

it would help alot in warmer months, but youd need at very minimum 9mm thick insulation but either way its not going to do alot. best way is to try it and record your findings. it the airs 1* cooler you win =]

lol.... the only way your going to get those improvements is if your maf is completely sludged up. your 'cousin' probably cleaned it and thats where the gains came from. your not going to notice a 50hp increase by removing the honeycomb. its there to straighten the air flow across the sensor...

l67 engine has a twin cat setup, l36 has single merge before the cat, then single all the way through

if your worried about illegal exhaust, even if you had a stock exhaust you probably wont past an emissions test with a cam. iirc a few yrs ago somone did an emissions test on a stock as a rock ls1 and it didnt even pass....

with a brand new alternator + battery i had 14.3v at alternator, 14.2v at battery and 13.6v on the cluster. over time i had a few dramas so i changed the reg over after 3 yrs of use. now its 14.4v at alternator, 14.3 at battery, and 13.9-14.0v at cluster. all at idle, no ac or lights on. today...

at the end of the day, its the buyers responsibility to check over the car. sure 95% of people will most likely not tell you about all the niggly bits and troubles theyve had with a car, but thats the risk you take. just because its the most expensive car dosent make it a good one :)

theres a couple of good guides over at ls1.com.au but i think you will have to sign up there to browse it any tips... alot of WD/CRC if the nuts and bolts are virgins and never been opened before

when i had colder range plugs installed my car would carry on a fair bit more than when i had standard plugs in it. you havent gone to some sort of iridiums?

had rust on them.... what does that say about the rest of the car you baught? :-/

for $400 you will be dissappointed over a $50 home made job performance wise.... if i were you, i would get some mace rockers + make your own air intake.... similar price really

well rather than spending teh $1700 you could buy one of those 10mm cameras they sell from repco atm i think they were about $100 with a 2" screen on it and stick it down the duct to see if there are any cracks/missing parts and even get right up to the evap coil. i think i know what you mean...

haha more people trying rip off dyno figures, he has a manual so theres a few more ponies in the reading, but that said ive seen a few VE ss's exhaust/otr/tune around 240kw both in manual and auto so take the dyno as a grain of salt really. either way as long as your happy with the car :)

unless you drive on really dusty/dirty roads you shouldnt really need to clean the coil, but if you have that much air loss id be pointing a finger to an duct leak, if it has been done on the car before maybe they didnt put it back together

does it happen at a certain rpm? ie. 1500rpm coasting in 4th at 90k's? or does it do it in 3rd at about 65k aswell? is the shaking your idle jumping all over the place?

fair 4 year dig ;)

my car did some of what you discribe when i first baught it, ended up being the CAS... replaced it and no more dramas

my brothers vx was rear-ended a month ago, hit smack on center in the rear at around 30k's it popped the tail lights out, bent the boot slightly and scratched the bumper. but underneath is a whole nother story.... all up repairs were $9500 (at a very reputable body works) they practically put a...

theres no 'best' oil as everyone will tell a different story. mobil1 10-40 at $80-100; sure its not too bad. most people into modding the l67 will run castrol edge 10w-60 for around $65. also heard good things about penrite which is around the $40 as stated above =]

go somewhere local, then send the bill to them

some of the camber kits out there (including kmac) use a twin bolt through the guts of the bush. this over time can loosen up and let go. when i got mine done i had a single bolt put thru it as i was told they are 'pedders style' cant tell u which brand i have but i know the shop used alot of...

ive tried narva's and philips crystal vision 55w before, they were terrible... so so terrible for a $100 bulb, so when one blew i was very sceptical at buying another set. so i forked out another $80 for yet another philips bulb this time the +80% ones... theyre awesome well worth it. sure they...

at around 80k of slow accelleration u can see the revvs pickup for half a second almost as if its trying to change gear into OD but .5 of a second later it will go back into 3rd, speed to about 85k then go into OD fine.... has always been the same ever since ive had it.... same goes for my...

brand new in street commo's mags they sell crate motors for $4750 iirc, for $3k does that come with loom/ecu ect ?

big stereo?

one trick i was told was to pour some water around the CAS area, not sure as to why it actually worsk but it did help start my car a few times until i actually got around to fixing the CAS lol

a twin 2.5" on a n/a 6 are you sure? if so i'd be pointing the finger at that robbing you power... thats o****ill most people have troubles with larger tb's and shift points so id be getting a tune just for that

https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/search?searchid=2316967