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Yes because they are still relatively cheap compared to LS1 and Super6. Look and how many engines the guys building them are going through. They at times have 2 or 3 on the go. Its all to do with them being easy to Turbo and holding up to decent boost....stock. Quick scan - Ebay = $750 whole...

The same casting which causes dramas running the higher ratio rockers ? Something was definitely different from VY on.

I paid $200 for a set about 3+ months ago pick up in Geelong. They were in good nick as well. Need to check for cracks between the ports otherwise they are good heads. When I was looking, wreckers wanted $200 per head and it was cheaper to buy a whole engine in the end but I didnt have room for...

Depending on the boost, I am not sure how long the graphite head gaskets will hold up and if it is caused by the heads lifting due to the TTY standard bolts. But then least you have the bolts for future head swap. The ARP do stretch to some extent, but as long as the threads are fine and haven't...

Why are you changing them over for ? Just for added security ? With some engines there are clearance issues with the Arp studs near the exhaust manifold. Not sure if this is with aftermarket headers only. Wish Arp did just a straight reusable bolt set for these. Would have been better. Some...

NIce :). Post some pics one you set it up.

Interesting about the Pedders coilovers. Yes you are probably right but the washer size for the bottom is not critical as long as it faces downward and domes to not damage the bearing. It also cups over the bump stop but not as critical as the bump stop slides down but probably stops it pushing...

Noting that you have probably fixed it by now, you need the grey washers facing in this image called a Stop Start bearing. GM number on the pack. The silver one sits facing down over the bump stop. Above the 'Upper Strut support are 2 nuts. A 7.5mm jam nut that sits on this grey washer washer...

FYI - Bit of a thread dig but I spent a few days trying to find this washer and the Part No. is GM 90223654 and is called a Stop Start bearing for some strange reason. See attached image. The grey washers are the top ones, and the silver taller domes one is for the bottom over bump stop.

Apologies as I know its a few months on, but I an using the Nolathane version on these, and Nolathane and Whiteline both mention that the car will sit 10mm higher when using these Poly ones as they compress less. Thats why people use them so they dont fail like the og ones. Just remove the old...

Are the after market whiz bang "lifetime cobra" mounts any better and easier to install ? Seems they have extra pivot point to avoid what the OP had. https://www.maceengineering.com.au/epages/mace.sf/en_AU/?ObjectID=11599267

I recently used a guy off ebay who has great service as he replaced any faulty ones I had. Like $30 for 5 cluster and the 3 lcd ones. You are meant to sand off the green on the cluster plate but if you use certain colours except for white you can leave it. I find they don't illuminate the...

Thanks Shane. The ones I ordered have already been posted them, even though its Sunday ?? Let me see how I go and I will come back to you if need be. Thanks again to all.

For 2 bolts its like $12.30 including delivery via snail mail :oops: Crazy cheap. If you want them quicker like $6 extra etc. Once the United Fasteners fell away, it was left to the after market to cater for Holden for these things. And wreckers are still good but don't like breaking things apart.

https://www.boltandnut.com.au/m16-x-1-50p-metric-fine-stainless-a2-70-g304-hex-thin-lock-nuts-din-439?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiArrCvBhCNARIsAOkAGcXKMf-xWeSj5_lheRDQXvd6bzCM0k12VPJ4joaPkF7WROfSZRSDLkYaAlmzEALw_wcB Using the thread pitch details, I was able to find a lock nut to suite. Looks to...

As per the snippet, I am after the bolts referred to as No.12 (7.5mm) bolt nut. Wreckers wont supply bolt only and I haven't got an existing set. KYB only supply the 15mm bolt. Maybe Pedders supply this one ? Otherwise I will search the nuts and bolt stores for a 7.5 or 8mm yellow zinc bolt nut...

When I solder, I put some silicon grease on them and shrink tube over it. Makes a corrosion free seal. If I crimp I use liquid insulator to seal crimp openings. Or I just use the waterproof solder shrink tubes.

Apologies as I realise this thread is a few months old, but just wanted to comment on the pic. This type of dust boot is commonly supplied by the Urethane companies to clip onto the urethane bump stops. They don't emphasize the cable tying rubber ones as this will still stop dust, water etc...

Think I will do it this way if I can find the 2 wire connectors so I use them again in the future if need be. Thanks

Thanks for that. They only have 4 wire sensors which seems to be the cast with most.

Thanks for that. I can only seem to find the 4 wire version for the extension. Might just manually add on some wire and crimp seal it.

Didn't think they would be needed for roadworthy, but the vids above will help you out. The Castor Bush are the easiest to change. Get the Urethane ones over the rubber. My nolathane ones have lasted 18 years.

Hi, I got some new NTK 2 wire oxy sensors, but the cables seem to be too short (320mm?). Would these of manually been extended when the headers were installed ? I notice there are some extender harness available online.

Thanks for that. Yes the ebay seller was great and refunded me for the Delphi which must of been bought years ago it seems. But looking online, the Goss and Bosch ones all rate very low as well so it seems the aftermarket for these is not the best. Got one with coils from the wreckers and all...

Hi, Went to replace my DFI with part GM no 1103946 and a new Delphi unit DS1004.D and would barely start. Once is did it would run real rough. Not sure if faulty from the box or if this is the incorrect part number ? Assumed they would be all the same when advertised for all Ecotec.

lol. No doubt. The weather cannot decide what it wants to be on this side.

This is how I ended up doing mine. Discreet, cheap on discount at SCA and crazy bright. Like I said, can't remember brand but its whatever they had before the current brand. Apologies for the webs and dirt.

Sorry mate they just arrived and I didnt realise how small they are. No part number but the blue is the dash cluster and the black is the lcd one.

That's why I installed mine to sit below the number plate. I use mine on poorly lit roads, thats about it. The kit and bracket to install it cost more than the light. Supercheap were getting rid of em at like 80% off from a store getting renovated. Excellent quality light and construction.

Nice post dig ;). Yes JB Weld is the best for fixing pitting. Maintaining coolant and stray current is best at stopping the above happening. The Mace (AC Delco) or Fel Pro (Amazon) steel LIM gaskets are the best.

Definitely was with the VE's. Not sure why Holden tried to build an OHC engine and carried over the poor PCV system issues from the earlier V6 models. And nor sure how the stretched chain issue didn't become a Class action in Australia. But these are issues not only with GM's and seems that oil...

Your car is worth as much as how much you need it or it means to you. If it just sits in a shed to rot, then not much. But if it gets you to work and back or as an emergency vehicle then its much more. On the free market it it supply and demand. Parts are slowly drying up as people are holding...

Funny, I just bought a kit for this few days ago from the bay. $30 for LED with 10 globes for cluster and 3 for the LCD's. Local sellers as well and different colours. I did this because as although the small cluster ones are easy to come by, Holden charged a plenty for the LCD ones. I coulnt be...

It doesn't need to be and if you can connect direct to the highbeam power cable thats it. But using the headlight cable kits with fuse makes this installation so much easier. They are like $30 odd dollars from one of those 4WD stores. Yes you have a switch, but you can hide it anywhere and just...

Have you installed the Radius Strut Kit on your car ? Almost mandatory due to the amount of additional movement you get when braking. Together with the plastic LIM gaskets, these should of formed part of a Class action against Holden. To think 15 plus years ago GM in the US stopped the plastic...

I know its been months since you posted this, but what did you end up doing ? I have 1.98 on old 400 grand springs. Not to say it won't do anything but the MACE type are meant to maintain close to original harmonics albeit the extra lift. I did snap springs many years ago with 1.95 YT rockers...

https://www.tuffcarparts.com.au/vr-vs-vt-vx-vy-holden-commodore-ecotec-3.8l-v6-cro Anyone had luck with the Crow Cams Single Chain unit ? Interesting that the Rollmaster catalogue doesn't even mention anything after the VT. VX-VY not even mentioned. L36-L67 labelled as supercharged is so very...

What a poo of a thing. With the symptom of those crappy beeps. Can't remember if it triggered radiator fans too. Done two in my cars 400,000km life and they are harder to get now from the wreckers. Used to be $50, then $100. I see rebuilt ones for plenty of money online. Wreckers will know, I...

Are you serious ? You are over thinking this one shockingly. You can run anything from a 5w40 to a 20w60 in that Engine without issue. Supercharger or Turbo makes on difference. It's only cars with overhead cams where the oil needs to get to the top quicker through smaller galleries and even...

The oil under radiator cap could be the LIM gasket that has blown. If trans fluid leaking into the radiator it would still be reddish with all the dye in it. Unfortunately you cant use stop leak for radiators like you can for the cooler core. Just replace the radiator. Decent prices on the bay...