I had a similar problem on mine. It's a V8 so I don't know if it's the same as a V6 but anyway.... it turned out to be a heat cut off switch on the body of the compressor that was faulty. I just bypassed it after checking the compressor was ok. Problem solved.
Aaah, cool. I just scanned the posts so my bad.
Do the compression tests as I mentioned- don't worry for now about the specific psi reading, you're just looking for any that are way different from the rest (usually allow 10%). The leakdown you can time to see how long it takes to fall a...
From what I've heard, they heat them, reset them- which loses the 'spring' in the steel, then re-spring them again.
But yeah, I'd just buy the proper springs in the first place.
Or always have three super-sized mates in the car with you...:D
Have you done a compression test and leakdown test on your cylinders?
This will usually tell you what problems you have. Low compression and poor leakdown results in one or more cylinders could be a blown gasket or cracks.
Usually the milky emulsion means blown gasket/cracked head/cracked...
If you get all the wiring harnesses for the box and the engine it should work just fine. Hope your sparky is a good mate! There may be some of the wiring to the dash that's a bit different too. Shouldn't be hard to work out.
That loverly CV joint in the tailshaft can do all sorts of weird things too. Had to replace mine after it started to get a speed related vibration.
Ain't that cheap either!
If you want to repair it, that putty stuff can be ok for a temporary repair...but...for the long run I'd patch it.
I know you're a bit tight on time so doing the putty thing is probably the best for now- you may even be able to do it without taking the tank out- park the car on enough of a...
$250 to rod a radiator?!? Tell him he's dreamin! Last one I had done was less than $100 and took a couple of hours. I also did my wagon's radiator myself a couple of months ago and it cost $20 in lead and that was it (but only if you have the right tools- black'n'red spanners:D ). About half...
They will probably want a fair bit. One thing to remember is that the unpainted bumpers are textured so you either have to get paintable (smooth)bumpers or spend forever sanding down high build primer before painting. You can just paint over the texture but if it's metallic, looks really bad...
If it's not the fuel pump (which would be my first guess too) then try the ignition module under the bonnet. Mine did that and had very similar symptoms.
I had that problem and it was a blocked radiator. Probably a similar issue with yours- copes okay most of the time but with the extra heat of running the air con it can't cope and gets hot.
I've been looking for a level 3 V8 dash for a while and not had much luck, but there seems to be plenty of V6 dashes out there. Is it possible to swap the tacho from my V8 lvl 2 dash into a V6 lvl 3 dash?
I must admit my VP is pretty agricultural compared to the VY I drive at work (about to be upgraded to a VE- we'll see how that is). I owned (preparing for flameage) an EB Fairmont Ghia 5L a few years back and thought it was probably a bit nicer than my VP...but... that fuel consumption...
I've heard of people taking them out but why? You may get a tiny increase in power due to a reduction in power loss with less reciprocating mass, but it's there to balance out harmonic frequencies (vibrations). I guess if the whole engine is blueprinted with a different crank rod and pistons...
Another thing that happens is the cable stuffs up- mine has done it twice. First time the outer kinked just near the firewall so wouldn't quite pull enough to open the bonnet and the lever would kinda stick up half way. The second time, the metal clamping band at the latch end came loose and...
My V6 dunnydoor used to make that noise, but never ran rough. I guess it only made the noise for two days before I fixed it tho! It was the harmonic balancer. You couldn't really tell from looking at it, but it sure made one hell of a noise!
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There's a special service tool to move that security cover over the computer. I had to use it recently on my car. It's called "the right hand" tool. Works really easy. Hook the special tool over the edge of the cover and give it a good yank down and away from the 'puter. Bends easy enuf to...
That flickering engine light should be the clue.
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/showthread.php?t=49313
Computer.
I had pretty much the same symptoms and as soon as I put my memcal in another computer (out of a camira for heaven's sake!), it ran perfectly.
Get a VP V6 computer...
I'm still sure that it's not a blocked radiator. Mine was 45% blocked (I counted each blocked passage as I rodded them.) The symptoms were fine at slow speed, chugging around town, but as soon as I got on the highway with a/c on, the temp went sky high. Think about it- the rad can now only...
It's unlikely to be a blocked radiator as the symptoms are usually ok at low speed but overheats on the highway like mine did. Serviced the radiator and it's all good again. I would be going with something like a problem with the water pump or fans??? Good luck.
....unless of course your cylinder seizes up in the 'off' position like mine did! (locking pin won't budge in this position) Had to take the lock assembly off the steering column just to drive the car and then once home got the drill out and attacked it!
Musta looked pretty funny tho-...
I've been told that the injectors out of the 2.6 4 cyl injected magna's of TP and TR vintage are a straight swap for the VN/VP 5L injectors (obviously once you get two sets of the magna injectors:rolleyes: ).
These injectors are supposed to be higher flowing that standard ones and are...
I know I probably shouldn't admit to this...but...I had a turbo RX7 which may have 'kissed' a kerb once :w00t: and developed an annoying hum at certain speeds. I replaced the rear axle bearing on that side and it was fixed.
Jack your car up and lift one wheel at a time, preferably starting...
Thanks for that! Have a spare ECU which I'll chuck in tomorrow - asked a local holden trained bloke and he agreed that 99% when the light flickers constantly without error codes it's the computer.
Yup, leads all good, plug gaps good. Timing checkd ok. New fuel filter 1 month ago. Injector cleaner put thorugh it a couple of months ago.
It ran well for a month or so after renewing the entire ign system and just last week began playing up.
There are no fault codes logged, just the...