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Has to be wiring/connector either corroded or making intermittent contact to the module. Good Luck.

If there is a burn mark on the injector rail it sounds like you have a stray hot cable floating around somewhere in the region of the injector rail which has brushed against the rail shorting either ignition, ECU or fuel pump supply. Good Luck.

I've had the CEL come on and code said 2/3 solenoid - this only happened on long runs when engine hot. Solenoid was replaced and all OK. However, OP says gearbox started slipping out of nowhere at the same time which did not happen in my case. Not sure what that means? Good Luck.

Exactly what gearbox does your VR have?....never never heard of a 6 speed VR or a VR GTS??? Regards

Check all vacuum hoses for splits/leaks...not a sticky throttle cable?...maybe reconnect the egr ....try cleaning the throttle body. See this thread on fitting the TPS: https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vs-throttle-position-sensor-replacement.213940/ Good Luck

If it was the bearing that failed then the noise possibly was from the stator hitting and damaging the poles so dump it. Good Luck.

Throttle position sensor possibly? Maybe the engine coolant sensor is not telling the ECU that engine is cold and engine is running on a lean mixture. Is it OK when hot? Good Luck

I've used GMB with no problems. Good Luck.

Is the red immobiliser light off when ignition on?...if still glowing the immobiliser is still on and car cannot start. If it is not on try pulling the HT leads off 1 coil then crank car and see if the coil is shorting. Should see sparks down side of coil. Good Luck

There are 2 coolant temperature sensors - one for the gauge and one for the ECU/PCM fan(s)...check by removing connector on sensor with engine running and fan(s) should come on. (this is from my bad memory). Situated near thermostat housing. Good Luck.

Possibly is the module as they do fail. See if the link below helps - it's about testing the module. http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/distributor-mounted-icm-tests-2 Good Luck.

In the Ecotec 6 there is a separate temperature sensor for the ECU which has something to do with the idle - I'm guessing the V8 has a similar separate sensor which possibly is either disconnected or faulty. This sensor raises the idle when the engine is cold and backs it off when warm. Good Luck.

Before you change the tyre, park the car on level flat ground with the wheels pointing straight ahead. Then get on your hands and knees in front of each front tyre and eyeball the outside of the front tyre with the outside of the rear tyre - do this on both sides. The front and rear should be...

See this link I found for you below....it explains how to locate and repair the speedo and rev counter. https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/how-to-fix-speedo-vs-commodore.86469/ Good Luck.

One from a wrecker may also be bad. I'd pull the insrument panel first and check for breaks in the printed circuit board. Good luck.

Losh1971 - the picture posted does not have a Bendix drive - that is a spring to the right of the green coloured arm despite it looking like a Bendix drive. See: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-STARTER-DRIVE-for-DELCO-5MT-8MT-10MT-SD200-300-9TH-CW-3-SPLINE-213-/361646642223 Those old Lucas and...

I'd reckon that confirms immortality's suggestions. Good Luck.

Starter motors do not have Bendix drives anymore - they were dropped about 60 years ago in favour of the positive engagement starter motors which use a solenoid to engage the pinion with the ring gear. You need to find a new lekky of he thinks they still use them. Good Luck.

As the sound is still there with the serpentine belt removed, I'd be looking at it being the starter motor solenoid holding the pinion in mesh after you've released the key possibly due to a misaligned starter motor, loose/damaged solenoid or something that is vacuum powered like the heater tap...

Could be a bad connection or a break in the printed circuit board. To check the back of the instrument panel look up the "How To" on replacing the small plastic cog that breaks in the speedo. Good Luck.

First guess is one or more of the plug leads are incorrectly fitted - check twice!!...then check if sparks can be seen from (any) coil which has the leads removed....sparks should be seen leaking to earth. If no sparks then could be CAS or DFI module. Can you hear fuel pump priming fuel system...

I think most dudes on this forum would not understand 6AN or NPT so cannot help, but rest assured they would help if they could. Perhaps you could help too when sometime in the future someone has the same problem as you do and does a search so please report on how you went solving this problem...

I did a search for "balance shaft removal" and found quite a few threads on doing this job which leaves the shaft in position, below is a snip from one of the threads: HAHA COMPLETE SUCCESS!!!!! No rattle and No Viabrations!!! everything went smooth as. Removed the Balance shaft Cog/sproket...

Most probably a bad earth at the left indicator OR you have inserted the wrong bulb for the socket....from memory the left front indicator bulb is an orange single filament 15W bulb.....if a twin filament bulb is inserted incorrectly it will cause problems similar to your. The globe that went...

First thing I do if something strange happens electrically is disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and reconnect....costs nothing to try. Good Luck.

When you get the old tap out Rony, see if you can snap it in two - my old one snapped in two when I removed it - they get real brittle over the years. Regards

Personally I'd fit a new idle air control and throttle position sensor as either may be sticky especially as you say the old plugs were caked in carbon...they have them on Ebay for under $50 for the pair. A few years ago we had a Laser with similar problems regarding carboning up the plugs and...

My first thought is coils...one or more failing. Fuel filter probably is OK. Is the battery OK - if more than 3 years old I'd change it. Welcome to the forum too. Good Luck.

I'd go with what VK SL 3800 suggests - what the history of the engine - kms/ever overheated etc It should be either a fuel or ignition problem (stating the obvious). Engine to chassis earths OK? In neutral if you raise the revs slowly does it increase revs smoothly? Good Luck.

From memory you don't push it all the way in.... with the brake pedal up you push the switch in in till it turns the stop lights off....from your description you've pushed it in too far. Brake light should come on with just a touch on the pedal. good luck.

Auto or manual....engine hot or cold?

In that case yes, put a flush solution through it. Be aware that sometimes the solution can dislodge lumps of junk inside the cooling system and start leaks especially if the welch plugs are corroded, so after you've finished you should keep a close eye on the coolant level in the overflow tank...

The heater tap is vacuum operated so unless you have the engine running you will not flush the heater, so I'd undo the bottom radiator hose and allow all the coolant to drain out, reconnect hose, fill with water, run engine till warmish and you can feel the heater blowing warmish air, turn...

Has to have something to do with your other post on "no engine light: My first guess is that it was originally a V6 and using a bodgied up ECU to run the V8 and also has the wrong BCM. Good Luck.

Just a thought but is there any change if you run the trans in sports/power mode?...this may stop the 3/4 change. Regards

As a quick suggestion I'd source another CC module - there are 2 now on Ebay for VR V8 for around the $50 mark (one of these has series PF whilst yours is RP??)....could be the cable sticking inside. I'd love another Jag - had 2 XJ6's but if I get another it either will be a lump or I'll lump...

If you're an old bugger like me use a mirror and a torch - reset the switches if necessary. Good Luck.

Possibly you've damaged the fuel pressure regulator with excessive fuel pressure and the reg is only allowing a dribble of fuel. Good Luck.

Don't forget to mark all joints you disassemble with a punch or permanent marker - if you don't it you may end up with vibrations. Good Luck.

Could also be a shot harmonic balancer rattling. Low oil pressure should bring the oil light on at idle also light will stay on for a few seconds longer than usual after starting. If it was a cracked exhaust manifold or leaky gasket you can usually notice the blast marks that the hot gases...