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Keen to hear peoples experiences with the tailgates before i start trying to replace bits. I'm searching as having an intermittent fault. Seems to open a few itmes after a drive and then nothing. I can hear a motor type noise when I press the button but it doesnt open. As I can hear the motor...

Thanks for the detailed run through. Ended up missing out on the calais (Sold before I got to it). Just bought a sv6 today, not as well specced but nice black interior at least!

Hi guys, Just sold my VF SV6 Sedan and in the market for a wagon. There is a Calais that ticks all the boxes but I just can't get past the cream dash and door inserts. Wondering if: 1. anyone has done any dyeing/ fabric paint of the alcantra fabric? 2. the alcantra part is removable/easily...

Price Drop to $5600

Price Drop $5900

Pros, slightly wider tyres gives more rim protection Cons, rolling diameter changes a tiny bit, so speedo readout will change slightly but worth being aware of.

Whoops, reopened wrong forum. Sorry Mods!

ITEM: 2004 (Dec) VZ Berlina PRICE: $6000 Negotiable LOCATION: Caringbah, NSW YEAR: 12/2004 SERIES: VZ Series I BADGE: Berlina ENGINE: Alloytec 175 TRANSMISSION: 4 speed auto COLOUR: White EXTERIOR CONDITION: Good for ages, small scratches and stoneships INTERIOR CONDITION: Good, wear...

Tempe Tyres in sydney did them for $25 wheel but I was buying tyres too.

That's the rev range which my ignition coils played up, normally right around the 1800 mark. Would have called it a miss rather than vibration if we are talking about the same thing.

To the OP, no. I know there is torque management which I can't stand but don't want to pay for a tune. Most ppl have felt it when WOT from stand still. Sluggish as anything then somewhere after 2000rpm it decides to go, but no where near 100km/h.

You probably should have just continued this on your other thread. As it worked when you powered it directly, its obviously got a temperamental break in the connection seeing as it went down. Exactly the same thing happened to me and it was the wiring harness. Take it to an auto-electrician.

As above I've had the wiring harness go in my old Vt. This developed as an intermittent fault though, got stuck with window down a few times. You can try opening and closing and see if you get it to work - if it did work, would indicate wiring harness. Alternatively if your any good with an...

haha Cheers to 'spongebob' - 1 post which is a 4 yr old thread dig haha

If you were just doing water pump, I would say leave manifold on and just remove air intake piping, but if doing the o-rings too think you need to remove it - or at least lift it a tad to get in to neck bolts. Was going to recommend you change the o-rings above as well, so good that you got...

+1 for the D bushes. I had a creak for ages, greased them up and all good.

Don't need the tool. I have found a clothes line peg is pretty handy to push the tabs in with. Wear goggles or glasses to make sure you don't get petrol in your eyes and make sure you note the direction on the new filter and put it in the right way.

Hi Guys, just sold yesterday. cheers

I have the 25mm insulator and my covers don't fit? Do they sit at a fair angle for all the connections to be in?

As per above, paddles are a waste of time. For city driving I would say definitely go auto, but some people don't seem to mind their manuals through the city. Personally can't stand stop start in a manual. In terms of comfort, I think FE2 is fine, just don't under estimate the effect of your...

Still available

Price Drop - $80

ITEM: VZ/VY passenger side 12” moulded fiberglass sub enclosure – Enclosure only no sub included LOCATION: NSW, Caringbah/Revesby CONDITION: New in Box PRICE: $100 Negotiable DELIVERY/PICK UP INFORMATION: Pickup from Caringbah (Will deliver around the Sutherland shire or on way...

Havent had it on mine but apparently pretty common, few threads below on it - all seem to point to the vacuum solenoid or actuators Have a read of some of these: http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vt-vx-holden-commodore-1997-2002/178239-heater-aircon-vents-randomly-opening-closing-vt.html...

No worries, it's not a whole lot - theres a good calculator here - Tire size calculator Original tyre specs can be found here - Holden VZ Commodore Specifications

'Leak'-The water is not a leak, it's just condensation from the air con dripping out. Happens on every car. Wheels - 18 x 8's are fine on a VZ (if not substantially lowered anyway), however if coming off a VE the tyres will be 245/45/R18 which will give you a slightly larger rolling diamater...

For those interested - nothing I tried fixed the issue with the KYB boots, so got some original boots from holden and all sorted. Much better design in my opinion and cost $41 for the pair. Not sure what other brands boots are like but after having the struts out 3 times in a week, I would...

Yeah wish I had bought a set of originals in the first place but don't want to have the struts out for a 3rd time. Managed to get the boots re-attached without removing the struts and secured the bottom further down, drove to work and off again. Called KYB in the hope of getting a tip or fix...

Yeah thought it might have been a bit confusing after I posted, just wanted to show what it was that I changed on the second attempt. Was definitely dry, might have had a little bit of grime from my hands but too much of a coincidence for both sides to come off. Will give another go tomorrow...

Just to confirm the bottom is zip tied and not the issue. The top keeps popping off. Will try and zip tie to the bump stop then, just wanted to check I wasn't missing something obvious.

Hi All, So have replaced all my shocks with KYB's along with strut tops and bearings at the front. Driving much nicer now but having an issue with the new boots and bump stop arrangement. The day after doing them I noticed that that the boot had come loose from the top holding arrangement...

If it was just leaking down the front of the engine and there were no other symptoms I'd say it would be the o-rings where the coolant pipe mount joins the front of the engine just above the water pump. Which is a cheap fix. Would need a fair bit more information for anyone to be of more help...

Let us know how you go removing the manifold. Did you use the blue sealer on both sides? I did on mine but am interested in how hard it is to remove now.

As richard said above. No need to remove the battery to get to the headlights. Looks as though you have already un-done the bracket, so leaving the wires connected it should just slide in its carrier away from the light to give you enough room to get in there. Also for future reference you...

As always 5 minute break and had another crack and straight in. Fair bit of wiggling involved whilst pushing on the bolt. Bolts need more of a taper on the end! cheers mate

Thanks mate, managed to get the pulley changed but having trouble getting the power steering pump bolts back in. Have put it back in position and bolts are sliding all the way in but don't seem to want to bite. Any tricks any one?

Hi guys, I have a replacement tensioner pulley, the pulley bolts on from the back so just wondering if you take the bolt off where the tensioner arm swivels or take the two bolts out that hold the tensioner assembly to the block? Picture below to help explain.

I have had the same thing for a while, and I am pretty sure its one of the idler pulleys. I have listened and taken the belt off but cant single out which one. Bought a belt and idler set for $80 off ebay. The pulleys are Nuline part numbers are EP075 and EP141.

Take the main cap off and have a look in there. Might have just topped the overflow up with water and hasn't gone through the system yet.