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NoActually no I didn't take the module off. Just glue the strip to the button, let dry, glue on other half of strip, push into the hole and hope it grabs!

Hey, if you look at the first photo here http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vz-holden-commodore-2004-2006/143756-vz-radio-buttons.html#post1611617 instead of 2 fabric strips, I just used one wider strip of flexible plastic and stuck on with Selleys Plastics glue. Still going strong 1 year on.

I did similar to yours. Mine was just the volume + button. I could pull out just the button without taking off the airbag. I used a bit of flexible plastic - like that used for packaging things you buy from the shops. Then I used selleys plastics glue to stick the strip onto the button - in...

Pressure test will find em.

Yeah, that quoted section is what I was trying to remember - must have been thinking 105, not 115.

The heater tap on the engine should be closing and not letting warm coolant through to the cabin. Can you feel heat in those hoses to the cabin?

Are the thermo fans working now? I think they kick in around 115 deg on the VZ. Could take a while to get there - put the digital display on.

I'm no expert either, but from what I read the biggest killer is overheating/bad fluid. Could it be the trans fluid cooler in the radiator not doing it's job? Check it out. Maybe fit another trans cooler to help with fluid temp.

I swear some of them are tightened up with rattle guns!

You did check with the engine running after a drive, yes? If it was way overfilled, see overfilled auto transmission l460e - Google Search I think I measured the nut thread was about 18mm? edit: so does that make it a 3/8" NPT fitting?

Yeah, basically I've done what you mentioned twice now - but haven't done the pan drop and filter change yet. So I ran fluid out of the top radiator fitting until it just starts to splutter, got 4L of Dexron VI and put it in, check levels. Followed this How To: 4l60e Transmission...

Here's what info you can get without the Holden dealer Tech2 http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vz-holden-commodore-2004-2006/140703-v6-alloytec-data-using-obdii-tech2.html

Oh. That makes more sense..strange, haven't heard of that.

A quick way is to just set it at 110/120 (when you see the set speed, press up arrow a lot) - then at least you do get a reminder when you are going a 'bit' too fast.

Mine was sounding like a sewing machine when I got it. They had put the corrugated section of the air intake on back-to-front, causing an air leak and the noise. Fixed it, noise gone.

Behind the front bumper, left or right corner. There is wiring for a horn on each side. You can get a Berlina/Calais horn from Holden new for about $50 I think (comes with a bracket). They look similar and round, but with a black plastic scroll/trumpet on the top. I've got 2 (low note, high...

First thing that comes to mind is bleeding the VZ V6 system of air is different - see old threads on that.

Is this a new fix? Where? How much?

I gave up looking for non-expensive H11s from shops and got H9s from ebay. At least if they blow they're cheap. Did the H9 mod and made a difference. Also make sure the headlight aim is where it should be - pattern cutoff should drop 2 inches over 25 feet. Mine was off a bit - saggy front...

I had quite a bit of oil in mine when I got it at 175,000km. Cleaned it up and the PCV pipe, fixed a vacuum leak from the A/C duct vac hose, and fixed leaks around the intake piping clamps (because someone put the bendy section on back-to-front !). Very little oil since - really just 'vapour'...

Back of the inlet manifold, driver's side, hose that goes to the small black and white plastic valve (and that then connects to the firewall next to the heater hoses).

JHULLZ, what colour? Metallic?

Was it a cold day? There may not have been enough pressure in the A/C to turn on stage 1 of fans (see above). I notice on mine if I have the A/C on on a cold day and stop, it takes a while until the fan turns on.

Have you had the standard stereo replaced with a different one? I read somewhere that can stuff up the options you have available.

So is it worth doing that seal at the same time spark plugs are due, since the plenum comes off for them anyway? Is it just a couple of bolts and a new seal?

Stray current in the coolant? Do you know if the right coolant has been used all the time and changed often enough. Could have been contaminated along the way. Did they do a full flush of the system when the pump has been replaced? Who replaced the pump each time? I know when I bought my car...

Those are the heater hoses which go to the heater core in the cabin. They are quick release and can be undone using a flat screwdriver to pull the clip, then pull the hose off. Not sure what the replacement options are for the clip mechanism - ask Holden. May need a new hose. If you take the...

pic here http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vz-holden-commodore-2004-2006/127496-location-thermostat-housing-alloytec-sv6-engine.html

On the alloytec, the thermostat is on the inlet side instead of the usual outlet side - so the fluid coming out of the top hose can still be hot without the thermostat opening I guess. misdirection101, out of interest how oftern has the coolant been changed?

FIrstly, for $25 I think it's useful anyway. The one I have, using the wOBD software, has all that data, except for - Fuel Pressure(kPaG) - Manifold Air Pressure(psi) O2 sensor data there are 2 : "O2 Sensor 1-1 Voltage(v)" and "O2 Sensor 1-5 Voltage(v)" I'll have to check with the...

I remember my VT was more like this http://www.installuniversity.com/lsx/camaro-installation-documents/camaro-installation-documents/files/iat_maf_sensor_locators.jpg 3 wires for the MAF, 2 for the IAT But the Alloytec has just one plug with 5 wires, so I guess they're combined instead.

Attached chart and Excel of temps as it warms up.

Just did another session from cold, then started the car and idled until it had warmed up a bit. (See .txt for all temps) Outside temp 14C Coolant temp 51.8F = 11C Intake Air temp 64.4F = 17.8C So I guess they're close enough. What would be the symptoms of bad intake air temp sensor...

Good point. I'll check the reading again in the morning when there's no chance of anything in there being warm. If it's still saying 35 deg, is there a procedure for testing the intake air temp sensor? Also, what range of voltages are the oxygen sensors meant to show when running closed loop?

That would make sense. Although I thought I saw somewhere that the IA temp sensor was with the MAF - I could be wrong?

Also try bleeding air from the radiator bleed screw. Search for the procedure on here somewhere.

Hi all, I have an Op-Com for the wife's Vectra problems, and I got one of these Chinese "ELM327" OBDII interfaces for my VZ (CAN OBDII protocol : ISO 15765-4 CAN (11 bit ID, 500 kbaud)) About US$20 delivered in less than 2 weeks. Diagnostic Code Reader CAN-BUS Car interface OBD2: eBay Motors...

I think they are from the official GM Holden workshop CD which someone has printed from. You would have to buy from GM for hundreds of $$.

Just having a quick look at the info around, it seems 9V is about as low as you want to get before the battery's on the way out. Battery maintenance and testing I only looked into this stuff recently because mine went flat once when I left the ignition and interior fan on while I was doing...

I have the same slight thud from 2-3. I thought I'd put in some fresh ATF to see if there's any change. (Changing my wife's Vectra ATF twice made a huge difference). I pumped out 4L from the radiator connection and put in 4L of Dexron VI (Penrite DX-VI) and it has made it better. Still there...