Hey peoples ever since i bought my wagon the paint on the rear hatch has started to come away. I was prolly alittle annoyed that i didnt notice she must had had a wet polish or wax resto on the paint as the fade wasnt as bad as i first suspected when i bought it.
But anyway AFAIk the boot hatch has been resprayed as has the front of the car. But for some reason the top of the lid has started to come off. So if anyone can tell what causes it and the reasons behind it i'd be most interested.
Would love to respray whole car orignal colour but funds dont allow for it
Cheers Pub
Originally Posted by Smidy
Subscribed, cause my wagon is doing this too!
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* * [] [VP CALAIS INTERNATIONAL] [EFI 304] [T56] [] * *
* * [] [VP BERLINA LX WAGON] [EFI 304] [T5] [] * *
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STEALTHY's Shed Clean Out! Buy my ****
Originally Posted by davway
Originally Posted by JONNNNOOOOO!!
I'm prepared to be shown wrong by someone with better knowledge on the matter, but when I had my VR completely resprayed a few years back, the painter told me that Holden was using a cheap, synthetic acrylic type paint around the time of the VN to VR's. My car had faded badly on all horizontal surfaces, but had not started to break up like the picture. No matter what I tried, I couldn't get any life out of the old paint. The colour was Marine Aqua, a common dark turquoise colour on VP's and VR's.
The paint was a COB and the clear would deteriorate due to prolonged exposure to UV rays from strong sunlight, then start to peel, exposing the base colour to the elements. It didn't take long for the base coat to start cracking up like that pic Pub has posted.
If you think back to early model Holdens prior to the Commodore, their paint never seemed to deteriorate like this. They were sprayed in Dulon which stood up to the elements far better, but was obviously more expensive than the cheap crap used on Commodores. I think part of the problem was that Holden had the seat out of their pants during the late 70's up till the early 90's and they used cheaper paint as another economy measure to cut production costs. The painter told me that they changed again during the VS, I think it was and the paint quality is generally much better on later Commodores than it was on VL's, VN's and VP's.
Like I said, I could have this wrong but from his description, and the large number of early Commies you see with the upper surfaces peeling and fading, it made sense to me.
AFAIK Calaber pretty much nailed it. --- Acrylic Clear not being able to withstand the UV rays, etc... (I'm no expert by any means!)
No way to remedy this, other than a respray. If it hasn't set in like the above picture you can delay it, keeping it in a garage all the time, under covered parking etc, but it will eventually end up like Pub's roof.
See that thing is looks like its been resprayed the roof has fade and down one side of the car too but the paint looks like new on tailgate (much like the front end which has been resprayed minor accident)
The primer underneath seems like its blue. Maybe you guys are right and its the original paint and the tailgate just stood up better.
AS for a respray would i get away with just the main part f car done without the front end? (as it been done already)
Would this liekly save any money and turn out good compared to getting the whole car re done?
Originally Posted by Smidy
Mine is Marine Aqua, and its shit. One whole side of my car looks like your roof pub :'(
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* * [] [VP CALAIS INTERNATIONAL] [EFI 304] [T56] [] * *
* * [] [VP BERLINA LX WAGON] [EFI 304] [T5] [] * *
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STEALTHY's Shed Clean Out! Buy my ****
Originally Posted by davway
Originally Posted by JONNNNOOOOO!!
Keeping a layer of polish / wax on the paint will protect it if the habit is started from day one. Paint itself only has so many UV absorbers which will wear the brunt of sun damage but only for so long.
The way in which the energy is converted from wonderfull warm rays fo fun to paint damaging energy is quite interesting.
i dont suppose the tailgate could have been redone in 2K at a later stage and the roof is original paint? dont forget, an over zelous detailer with a buff can accidentally cut a lot of paint off, so when he is done it looks nice an shiney, but will fade in a day or two, then the base will just wash off.
ALSO, drive-through car washes (with those big roller brushes) have a habbit of taking off microns of paint each time, especially in that area. take off enough clear and the base follows.
Cheers for the replies guys. thing is where the paint has faded there is no crazing . its only on the hatch and the little bit near it on roof i just found it weird that its like that
Originally Posted by Smidy
With the poor quality of paint used by the factory, Pub, a complete respray is probably the only solution, particularly if your car has a metallic paint, which it appears to. I don't think the solid colours used on VN's and VP's needed the clear and they seem to hold up much better.
It could come down to poor prep work/ not enough clear on the affected area, too much rubbed off from as said polishing or washing. Unfortunately for you there is no way of really stopping it now. people say keeping it out of the elements but you can only prolong something for so long. the paint will still react with normal air getting underneath the clear. As you mentioned you can get away with only doing som much of the car instead of the work you know has already been done. only issue you run into here is that if the car is still in old old style of paint acrylic/dulon then your car will need to be put in a new coat of primer so that 2pack can stick properly to this.
Respray. Sus these guys if you're in the melbourne area, looks real good!
Bayside Auto Styling
nathans VY Calais - 'Calais 2.0' | VT Equipe | VS Calais **SOLD!**
$1500 thats a good price i think???
Originally Posted by Smidy
for a full respray? yeah good price. but they gotta be cutting corners somewhere.
You might get away with an external respray only, leaving inside bonnet, doors, jambs and tailgate as they are. Also, if your car is straight, and has no bodywork required, that will help to keep costs down, and perhaps even stripping it yourself and masking the glass etc, could also aid to reduce the price.
Hey guys, im a spray painter, that will need to be paint stripped, or there will be no guarantee of it not happening again. 1,500 is pretty cheap, especially if paint stripping is involed.
Just make sure there work is good and they guarantee thier work.
The paint defect in the picture can be a number of things, but i usually see this on older cars. the most probable cause is to many paint applications, normally found on bonnets and roofs of cars. Crazing can also be caused by incompatible paint products or incorrect re coating times. Constant use of car washes can also cause crazing. or even just the breakdown of the paint due to the elements