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Thread: metallic 2 pak

  1. #1
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    Default metallic 2 pak

    I was told by someone that you dont mix hardener with a 2 pak metallic base coat...just thinners and you add hardener to the clear coat you put on within 2 hours of spraying the base coat...is that true?
    This is my vr that I rebuilt ....CLICK HERE to see my vr on Cardomain ......if you want to check it out......Anyway make sure you rubbish a ford daily ....I am a 4DH8RZ Club lifetime member .................new members joining everyday

  2. #2
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    Default

    id say thats accurate. its good to get the clear over your base while the base is receptive to a top coat. dont know that its a definite 2 hour window, bases and clears flash at different rates depending on the temperature of the booth or where ever your spraying it.. and yea you generally dont mix hardener with a base coat...
    dont sweat the petty... pet the sweaty...

  3. #3
    ari666's Avatar
    ari666 is offline captain halfajob
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    my green will flash off in the space of one cigarette if i leave the heat lamp on it. then by the time you have had your smoke and mixed up your clear, its ready for the next coat.

    but yeah, no hardner in the base, just 20% 2k reducer. dont use regular thinner or it turns it into milk.

  4. #4
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    94 vr 5sp, 04 vz wagon,82 vh efi wagon,88 vn 5sp

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    thanks..... engine bay first...all stripped ready for paint ...now from gold to hothouse green....everyone I talk to here say rub the paint flat and hit it with primer then colour etc...not sure if underbonnet needs any scansealer before primer over original paint ....probably not real critical

    This is my vr that I rebuilt ....CLICK HERE to see my vr on Cardomain ......if you want to check it out......Anyway make sure you rubbish a ford daily ....I am a 4DH8RZ Club lifetime member .................new members joining everyday

  5. #5
    ari666's Avatar
    ari666 is offline captain halfajob
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    mate. you will need to do a few more hours of stripping before you hit that. every hose thats still in there is gonna cause you no end of grief. the base of the passenger side tower has a bit of a breakout that will need rust converter or itll bubble up. and the AC condensor and wiring loom will mean you wont be able to get the gun on the back of the towers without runs.

    the thing about metallic is that any dimple, scratch or depression becomes really obvious once you hit it with clear. so you need to over-prepare before you even start. all paint edges need to be feathered out and that sticker needs to be ripped off.

    soz not tryin to be a pain, but i have done stuff half arsed before and been really dissappointed. usually it means revisiting the whole thing. trying to save you some headaches

  6. #6
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    thanks mate got rid of the pass wiring loom and bracket on air con..hadnt even started rubbing it back in those pictures only degreased the 23 years of muck from the engine bay ..hoses are a big headache but ill have to mask/move/hang them as best i can
    This is my vr that I rebuilt ....CLICK HERE to see my vr on Cardomain ......if you want to check it out......Anyway make sure you rubbish a ford daily ....I am a 4DH8RZ Club lifetime member .................new members joining everyday

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