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Thread: Need Answers I have access to 4 Pro Spray painters and a Paint Manufacturer in Sydney

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    Default Need Answers I have access to 4 Pro Spray painters and a Paint Manufacturer in Sydney

    I can answer any questions you have about Spray Painting.
    Last edited by ClairBear; 01-01-2012 at 08:39 AM. Reason: Advertising own business

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    Glad to see you've joined the forum mate, been following you since the start of CSM. How is your ute coming along?
    My VY Berlina Build Thread - Mainly Stereo
    http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ure-heavy.html
    Quote Originally Posted by xVisions View Post
    driving without a license at the moment, My vl has beaten every single car I've street raced!!

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    Hey thanks. Yeah I have noticed a few people on here are a bit hazy on the subject of painting. So thought I can help.

    Deciding on a colour to paint the stock wheels at the moment. Metellic black with a flat clear seems to be the top of the list.

    CSM

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    Nice, flat clear. I don't know much about painting, would a flat clear be all acrylic? I was under the impression a clear coat with 2k would always give a slightly shiny result.
    My VY Berlina Build Thread - Mainly Stereo
    http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ure-heavy.html
    Quote Originally Posted by xVisions View Post
    driving without a license at the moment, My vl has beaten every single car I've street raced!!

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    Yes 2pack clear is always shiny the best way to get a flat 2k clear is cheap. Spray 2 coats of gloss clear then in the last coat spray a flattened clear. This gives body to the clearcoat and strength. The last coat will give a flat look. A paint shop like VG Auto Paints that sells clear should be able to give you flattening base to add to your last coat.

    Expensive but super flat. Use the Alsa flat clear. It has a velvet feel to it and is super flat lools great I did my bike in it.
    Acrylic flat clear is useless and will look rubish after a month or so.


    Hope this helps
    CSM

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    thanks for that mate. I am painting some of my skyline soon (I live in Canberra and get advice from a paint shop here) I was going to do a 2k black base with hardner and no clear, would you advice against this?
    My VY Berlina Build Thread - Mainly Stereo
    http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ure-heavy.html
    Quote Originally Posted by xVisions View Post
    driving without a license at the moment, My vl has beaten every single car I've street raced!!

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    No probs.. You can do that just do the same thing but use 2k solid. or SEM make a hot rod black that is nice and flat and is 2pack.

    CSM

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    nice website you have there. im sure ill be using it =P

    but 1 question.
    which type of paint would you recommend for airbrushing?
    it will mostly be used on timber and on plastic (eg bike helmet).

    thanks
    how about we make the pedals out of sticky rubber and the shoes with steel spikes. at least my shins would like that
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonesy484 View Post
    yeah i wondered the same thing when i was 4 when i grabbed the chrome exhaust of my dads rx7
    Quote Originally Posted by DM 55 WA View Post
    did you think it was a milo tin?

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    Hey thanks.. There are different opinions on what is good for airbrushing. I have seen a few pro airbrush guys use basecoat paint. Exact same that is used on cars. Just thinned out a bit more then usual. Its also what I have used in the past. VG.Auto Paints in Sydney do a good deal RFU airbrush paints in squirt bottles and you can choose your colours.

    CSM

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    Cool site. I am yet to finish my car but this has motivated me. I have a rough patch in the middle of the roof from overspray which I should of sorted before I put clear over. I havent touched the clear since sprayin it but it needs a good sand. Question is will the clear hide the overspray once its flat? There's pics in my thread if that's any help.

    Cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by lemusa View Post
    Cool site. I am yet to finish my car but this has motivated me. I have a rough patch in the middle of the roof from overspray which I should of sorted before I put clear over. I havent touched the clear since sprayin it but it needs a good sand. Question is will the clear hide the overspray once its flat? There's pics in my thread if that's any help.

    Cheers
    Thanks mate. If you give the clear a quick sand with 800wet then spray new clear over it then it will hide the overspray. Clear will not fill so make sure the surface is nice and flat before spraying the clear.

    CSM

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    Cheers mate. I gave the roof a quick scuff and I think its rubbing thru the clear. I didnt put alot on from memory so may go over the whole car again. Will the clear still bring it up alright even tho the sanding is just cuttin thru to the colour coat? Imperial Blue metallic

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    Ideally you should sand the whole area till its smooth then put another coat of colour and clear. But you might get away with puttin just clear over it. Hard to say without lookin at it.

    CSM

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    what would you sand it back with? I may do a colour coat cos there is a couple chips that need sorting and its safer to i guess as well

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    Heres a couple pics to try explain. It's hard to describe but it basically looks washed out? Dunno if that's the correct word! Added another of the side of the car to show what the rest of the car is like
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Need Answers I have access to 4 Pro Spray painters and a Paint Manufacturer in Sydney-imag0038.jpg   Need Answers I have access to 4 Pro Spray painters and a Paint Manufacturer in Sydney-imag0040.jpg   Need Answers I have access to 4 Pro Spray painters and a Paint Manufacturer in Sydney-imag0041.jpg  

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    Looks like some more colour and clear is the best way to go. The side needs to be cut with 1200 then buffed. Really needs a good sand with 1200 to get it flat

    CSM

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    Yeah the first two pics are the roof where I played today. On the rest of the car should I put more clear on before sanding? Or sand then clear?

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    Quote Originally Posted by lemusa View Post
    Yeah the first two pics are the roof where I played today. On the rest of the car should I put more clear on before sanding? Or sand then clear?
    It looks like you can put some new clear on there then wait a week then sand with 1200 then buff it.

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    i have question i have a vy ss and it is white but the paint is dull and has like sap on it every where should i lightly sand it back and respray the colour or could i just spray a clear coat over it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by kerrie0400 View Post
    i have question i have a vy ss and it is white but the paint is dull and has like sap on it every where should i lightly sand it back and respray the colour or could i just spray a clear coat over it?
    Hey mate, I had the same problem.

    Here is the video on how to fix it.

    Depending on how had the clear is will depend on if you need to apply more.


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    Quote Originally Posted by kerrie0400 View Post
    i have question i have a vy ss and it is white but the paint is dull and has like sap on it every where should i lightly sand it back and respray the colour or could i just spray a clear coat over it?
    Have you tried going over it with a paint cleaner and then polish and wax ? You might be surprised at the results.

    Doh...beaten by 1 minute...nice vid there too.
    Last edited by VS 5.0; 30-12-2011 at 12:18 PM.

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    seems like the right thread for this. (even if it is a dig =P)

    pretty much im learning how to use my spray gun and so forth
    so i tried using a primer spray on another engine cover.
    did the mix to how it all stated and everything else. (made 250mm all up. worked well)
    the instructions said 2-2.4mm nozzle but i only had a 1.7mm as the largest.
    would this effect the way it would spray by much

    i only ask as some parts came out fairly smooth and other parts extremely rough (think 120 grit sand paper rough)
    would this have been the nozzle or something else?
    maybe spraying too much in one area. not enough in another?
    it also dried extremely quickly. it said to leave 5 mins between coats. i could touch it and it was dry after 5 seconds. is that how it should work?

    oh and can i use hobby paints in an airbrush?
    the kind you would say buy from bunnings in 125ml tins and its more for models etc.
    or would it be best to use other forms of paints?
    as im hoping to paint my helmet.
    which would if im correct be sand. prime. lightest colour first. cover up areas not to paint. do next colour. repeat. eventually clear coat.

    thanks in advance

    EDIT: the rough bits came out with some light sanding of 800 paper.
    missed a few spots but im not that fussed. its just a trial item anyway.
    Last edited by Drawnnite; 12-03-2012 at 01:23 PM.
    how about we make the pedals out of sticky rubber and the shoes with steel spikes. at least my shins would like that
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonesy484 View Post
    yeah i wondered the same thing when i was 4 when i grabbed the chrome exhaust of my dads rx7
    Quote Originally Posted by DM 55 WA View Post
    did you think it was a milo tin?

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    It's not ideal to use a smaller setup than recommended, however it will work fine.
    Having an uneven finish is just your technique, it will come with time, try overlapping every stroke by 50% maintaining even distance and speed.

    PM me if you get stuck with anything

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