well, firstly don't write in red.. lol.. secondly you could give the engine a clean using some head cleaner or something like that, new filters. are we looking at it on the cheap or can i suggest a re-build???
the one i had many years ago, i had it rebuilt, bolted on a toyota 4 cylinder supercharger, was low boost, but gave it a big kick, adjust the fuel rate, 2.5 inch strait through sports exhaust, manaul valved traumatic. cold air intake. worked a treat.
i suggest, you clean teh throttle body, clean up all the connections on the computer etc, make sure the computer is dry, vks leaked down the window right through the left kick pannel were the computer is. they came with extractors standard. maybe ram air, and a high flow filter.
yea i want to do something like the 'diy cold air induction' cbf finding the link im sure uve all seen it.
but insteard of going thru the body of the car run a pipe with a wider mouth on it into the grill. then put a k&n or simmiliar pannel filter.. also new plugs and plug leads got the extractors and a redback exhaust.. 2 inch tho. rekkon i should go that extra half inch? i dunno
i cant get the charger cos of p plater laws..
what do u mean ajust the fuel rate? also manaul valved traumatic?? sorry noob questions lolol
thanks and happy new yyears
coz i added teh super charger = more air, i needed more fuel into it too, so had to up the fuel pressure too. dont need to do that with out the super charger.
trimatic 3 speedo auto, aka traumatic, can be modifeid to handle a lot of power, manual valved, was it not shifting by it self, you have to put it up a gear manually for it to change, hold it into gear for as long as you like then.
yeah basic mods, are bigger air flow in, via the cold air induction, air scoop.. and more out, a bigger exhaust, 2.5 was very loud mind you, i wouldnt go any bigger than that, i think standard is 1.75 or 2" anyway, i cant remember, it was a long time ago...
make sure everything else is in good order, good spark, good fuel and you be right... change the fuel filter too..
the real question is, its not speed you should be worried about, its keeping that speed, via handling, driver skill etc ;-)
yeah well i dunno if i mentioned or not but when i brought the car it hasnt been driven in 7-10 years and scine then all its done is a trip to vic roads and back and it just feels real sick and takes its time to go into 2nd so it needs a good run and a good tune, ill just leve the exhaust system its a 2 inch ill get the new plugs and leads cos basically dad told me he would get me them
amd a fitler and air induction.
i dont know if you have herd of this product but you run it thru the engine and it cleans the injectors and everything i think i will get that ran thru it.
id be replacing everything in the car then, it might need a tune, but these had very little tunability, their is a fuel mix ratio on the afm i think, , seals perrish over that long with out being used. gaskets as well for that matter,
id do brake fluid, oil, radiator coolant, transmission oil, engine oil, filters, air, fuel, oil,
other than that, it might just need cob webs blown out of it.
well i got a whole new brake system to pass road worthy.. i did radiator coolant but i want to do it again.. and it has a new fuel filter.
for air and oil what fiters do u reccomend ?
and how do i dump all the fluids to replace them? from having it in my back yard,
ive done engine oil once but that was at work experiance..
any oils you reccomend?
i use castrol 20-50, it takes about 3 1/3L (please verify) and super cheap and many other places have the book with all the filters for the car, make sure you get a EFI filter.
there is no point going for a really expensive oil like royal purple unless you have a 5 gazillion horsepower 202
about 50 bucks, lol, carby filters are generally plastic, low pressure paperish elements, usually clamped on with a hose clamp, or even a clip.
efi filtres, are huge the size fo a can of coke, metal casing designed for high pressure, nfi whats inside of them, and usually have lock nuts to clamp on, some have big clamps. your fuel filter is underneeth the back of the car, climb under, you will see it infront of the fuel tank, just take it off, have a bucket as a bunch of fuel will come out thats in the lines, then put a new one one, make sure its the right direction, should be an arrow on it which way.
as for oil and filter, i suggest you buy a car manual, usually these things are pretty much covered in it, its very simple though,warm the car up, turn it off, hide the keys, so nobody starts it, undo bolt at the bottom of the motor, oil comes out into your prepared drain tray, leave it open, then use a oil filter tool, many around, undo the filter, which is a round caniser thing, located er, somewhere on the motor, cant remember where atm on a vk. oil will come out of that, it screws on and off basically, then get your new one, some say to pour a little bit of oil insie of it, and run some oil around the outside rubber sealing ring, with ya finger, then screw it back on, just nip it up a bit tighter with the tool, doesnt need to much. then put the bolt back on the bottom of the car, some need a crush washer for sealing you can replace. then pour the oil in, measure how much ya have with a dip stick, or on a bike the sight glass. wala, done.. never start the car with out any oil, unless you like fires, and expencive money. i do buy quality oil, but you dont need the best, just get whats on special from super cheap except that black no name brand stuff in the bargain shop, lol.
i wouldnt be doing the brakes unless ya know what ya doing, air in the lines isnt a good thing if ya do it wrong.
radiator, do a good flush, take the hoses off, the radiator, let em drain, stick the hose into each one on full pressure as much as ya can and wash it out, same goes for inside the radiator hoses to clean the block out. then seal it all up, make sure you do the clamps up tight, and your done once ya put coolant in, i usually like to mix mine a bit stronger than usual, coz i live in extreem climates, i personally get deminerilized water from the supermarket to mix mine with, but others will use tap water, only coz i use to live on boar water that was high in sulpha and smelt liek farts.... and dont be stupid and pour 100% concentrated stuff into the engine block and drive it around for a few thousand km before telling anybody...
i meant air filter, whoops...
oh, and oil filter location is on the drivers side of the engine at the bottom, just above the sump
make sure the inlet manifold bolts are tight as well (where it bolts to the cylinder head)
All 202's (EFI included) need these bolts/nuts checked on services. They wind themselves loose which causes a vacuum leak. Usually results in rough/unstable idle, increased fuel consumption etc
Best thing for a efi 202 = snail and/or 5 litre transplant.
Reaper
very funny.
f*&k the useless efi off and run triple carbs.