Now driving R34 GT-T taxi
Rb20, Rb25, Rb26, Rb30..... ?
Ok the title isn't terribly suggestive, but I was wondering if you kind folks here could educated me on the various 'RB' motors.
Obviously, driving an 88 VL Commodore, I'd have an RB30 motor, and yes I also realise that the engines in the VL's are Nissan. I'm assuming an RB30 motor is 3.0L? in this case, are the RB motors numbered to their respective capacities/displacement? I think from what I know, my engine, unmodified, would be SOHC and either two or four valves per cyl? yes, no?
I've seen a few things on this site here, like people putting RB26 heads on a RB30 motor, or people even converting their VL's to a full blown RB26 DETT and whatnot.. RB25, RB26? Don't tell me they have a difference of 100cc? Are they really that simular? or are they very different engines?
Yeah, I would like to learn a little more about all the respective inline-6 engines which are associated with VL/Nissan..
Cheers.
rb20 = 2L R32
rb25 = 2.5L R32
rb26 = 2.6L R33
rb30 = 3L VL & R31
thats all i know and i think im right. as for ur car it has 4 valves per cylinder
just to simplify it a little......
RB = denotes engine series ie. RB=6 cyl, SR & FJ=4 cyl
26 = denoted engine capacity ie. RB26=2.6 litre 6 cyl.
D = denotes dual OHC ie. RB26D=2.6 litre 6 cyl twin OHC....no 'D' means single OHC
E = denotes electronic fuel injection.....no 'E', no injection
T = single turbo
TT = twin turbo...no 'T' or 'TT', no factory turbo/s
eg. RB26DETT, RB20DET, SR20DET...blah, blah, blah
the toyota engine codes are a little harder to get a grip on
the RB26 was also available R32 through R34 as far as i know....Originally Posted by INJSLE
released as the RB26DETT 'neo' in the R34 GT-R
Rb's
No your Rb30 has 2-valves per cylinder, although the pistons do have the recesses ready for 4.
The Neo engine in the R34 is an Rb25det, not an Rb26, although its performance data shows the same output as the Rb26dett.
The Rb26dett has been around since the R32's.(Godzilla)
Unfortunately there are also some dreadful imports with woeful engines. Saw an R33 auto the other day with an Rb20e. Imagine that, an auto Skyline with 93Kw at the flywheel. You even can buy a Skyline with a Ca18.(Taxi Spec)
There are some good buys though, like a GT4. This is sometimes called the poor man's GTR as it has the ATTESSA all wheel drive, ABS, HICAS, the list goes on.
Nat. asp. cars come with 4-stud wheels and usually smaller brakes when compared to a turbo version.
You may have guessed I love my Lines.
thats a good question,
depends on what your looking for i guess.
Ok, now with a nissan engine, the RBart is the engine type 20:is the capacity D:means its twin cam E:is its fuel inected T:is its turbo
RB20DET: there cheap to buy second hand, are usually very reliable and are easily upgradeable. With a few mods to the RB20DET you would be looking at around 160KW ATW.
Problem is that they lack a bit of low down torque and if your putting a larger turbo on the engine the turbo can become very laggy low in the RPM rev range. If driven sensibly they can use stuff all fuel. Most RB20's will have quite a few kays on them by now too as there quite an old engine but in my opinion if there well looked after they will last for ages... Plus they sound awesome and can rev easily to 8000rpm!
RB25DET: also another really good engine, in my opinion not as reliable as the RB20, maybe due to the higher static compression ratio which makes them more prone to pinging. With a few simple bolt on mods you would be getting close to 180KW - 200KW ATW too.
There quite a bit more expensive to purchase in complete form then the RB20 but they dont turn into lag beasts as easy as the RB20's with a larger turbo. Plus there not as old as the RB20's so finding a low kay one shouldnt be too hard. They sound good too and there is a huge range of aftermarket parts for them.
RB26DETT: Great engine, make loads of power with little mods at all, probably about 200KW to 250KW ATW with all the basic mods.
They have been released in all the R32-3-4 GTR's since 1989 which is testament to their reliability. They make quite a bit more torque than any of RB20-25 engines and are well know for their reliability. However they big $$$ to buy and very expensive to repair if something goes wrong.
RB30ET: Good engine, quite cheap to by a complete engine too, however there only single cam and are quite a old engine now so it might be hard to find one in good condition. You could look at buying a RB30E engine and buying all the bits to make it a turbo engine which would be maybe a cheaper option. With all the usual mods you would be looking at around 160 -180KW ATW.
RB30DET: These engines are a mix of engines, they have a RB25DET head bolted onto a RB30E/T bottom end. This raises the capacity of the engine to 3.0lt but has the benefit of the twin cam RB25DE/T head. They make loads of torque and really need a largish turbo to make the most of them. Cost would be a factor too as you would need to find a RB25 head and RB30 bottom end and do all the work to make it work.
Have you though about any other engines like, the SR20DET, CA18DET, 1GGTE or even a 1JzGTE lol
And by usual mods i mean things like: Intercooler, Pod filter, exaust, fuel pump, boost controller, and maybe a ECU re-map.
Hope this helps ...
stoko vh seems to have a grip on it all ! quite a bit to remember, but easier than toyota and others.
I had planned to install a lightly refreashened VG30DETT into my VL wagon.
YES, more letters and shit. These are the V6 nissan engines, this one particular was a 3.0L/twincam/efi/twinturbo ! Barstard dont fit without suspension mods.
So, now going the RB 30 DET. Picked up a spare rb30 from a commy being wreaked for $150 ! This way, I can build hot motor, and still get to work !
Have not got the RB 25 head yet, but working on it !
If you opt for something like this, becareful you dont end up with the VVT engine/head, as it wont work. !!!!
Good Luck with whatever you build, and have fun !!!
thanks for the correction GRIGOR
Now driving R34 GT-T taxi
Would it be possible to bolt an RB26 head on a RB30 bottom end?
I like the idea of DET on a 3.0L inline 6...
Rb26/30
Sure the Rb26 head bolts up to the Rb30 block, bit of head stud work. But why bother. The Rb25 head flows beautifully, has hydraulic lash adjustment, later models have VVt which you can get to work on the Rb30 block.
The Rb26 head has bucket and shim valve adjustment, great for big RPM, but the stock Rb30 crank isn't happy after 6500 and you simply don't need to rev it anyway to make the power.
Plenum on the 26 is the duck's nuts but the 25's still works very well.
I love the idea of 2-turbos, but on someone else's car. It's bloody crowded down there.
Modern single installations have bugger all lag and more power than 2WD can get to the ground.
For some info on just what stock Nissan block, pistons etc can handle, check out RIPS at Skylines Downunder.
Now driving R34 GT-T taxi
Well I'm not thinking of forced induction here, but I'm sure twin cam and 4 - valves would make my RB30 motor a hellava lot more efficient. Btw, if the RB30 crank isn't happy beyond 6500 rpm, I'm guessing I could use one from a different motor, I wouldn't need to get a new one machined would I?
The RB 26 crank probably will not fit into the RB30, if you are after a good crank thats good after 6500 go for an aftermarket one and place it in there. Make sure that the crank will get over 6500 and still be happy BEFORE you buy it ... (i cannot think of any cranks off hand)
Of course the 2 litre isnt as torquey as the RB30 ... but the RB25DET is by far the best engine for money and has the power and torque. the RB26 is by far a dearer engine to purchase but would happiley pull the VL to a quicker time than the 'RB30DE' or 'RB30DET' that your planning to build,
If your still wanting to build the engine 'RB30DET'
The RB25DET head would and should bolt straight upto it with a few mods to the block (as stated in previous posts from respected members), but to gain a decent amount of power u would need a fairly large turbo.
There are a few ways to look at engines and with each subject has its good engines and its bad engines
Emissions - RB25DET
Power and Torque - RB26DETT
Revs - RB20DET, RB26DETT
N/A - RB30
Economy - All of them depending on how you drive ...
You could also try and be different by going the RB30DE or RB30DET and doing basic performance mods (pod filter, intercooler, exhaust, ect ect) and a bigger displacement block with a smaller displacement head (raising the pressure in the engine a bit) and still have roughly the same power and toque as the RB25DET.
I am going RB20 but creating a RB24and doing everything needed for it ... it will be costly but it'll be different :P so its possible to do anything ... just the cost thats involved that stops most people doing it ...
PS: all in all its your engine, either you like 2.5 litre or 3 litre ... the cost of the RB25 head and the mods to the block and all the stuff needed would be a cheaper option to buying a full front clip to a R33 and going from there ... just depends on how close you are to engineers and how much information you can gain about the converion (RB25 head on the RB30 block)
I hope this helps a little bit ...
Adam
Last edited by 4PLAYN; 02-06-2006 at 03:13 PM.
Rb's
By the way, you need an Rb25de head(N/A), not a det(turbo) or the compression ratio is way too low.
I think you should go for a drive in some Skylines before you start an engine build.
If it's revs you want, get in an R32 with an Rb20det. You'll soon get sick of changing gears.
Then try a R33 with an Rb25det. The extra low RPM torque is immediately obvious due to it's extra 500cc but mainly to the variable valve timing. You can drive around at 60 in 5th and still pull away in traffic.
You'd be lucky to drive an Rb25/30 but any engine that can make 100rwkw by 2000RPM is pretty cool, and it will then pull away to an easy 300rwkw.
If you want a N/A Rb30, leave it as a single cam and spend $$$ on power porting.
<<<There's a good present
why would you want to take it beyond 6500rpm?
Now driving R34 GT-T taxi
I get the impression that a stock Rb-30 is as sluggish as shit untill it goes past 3,000 rpm. With a twin cam, 4 valve head on it, it would breathe better at those revs hence it would make even more power up top, not to mention fiddling with the cam timing, she'd run very well. I seriously don't think this is gonna happen though...
How you going mate,
just letting you know that the VL 3litres are identical to the RB30 3litre engines and the only difference is that holden had faulty heads because they made there heads from recycled metal and to save the owner of the VL money the owner of there VL would just chuck on a NISSAN RB30 head....
Alex Moretti .... hate to say it but the VL 3 litre inline 6 IS a RB30E lol ...
The VL engine is the RB30E and the RB30E head goes on the vl engine as they are EXACTLY the same lol ....
recycled metal ... i thought the head was made out of alloy ....
Holden couldnt make the V6 engine fast enough so they did a partnership deal with Nissan to use their engines in the VL model. the V6 was originally ment for the VL (or so i been told, correct me if im wrong please)
The VL Commodore has the basic styling of an R30-R31 skyline ... (except the 2 door version ofcourse)
still correct me if im wrong ... always room to learn ... im only telling it as i heard ...
The mistake holden made was the position / height of the radiator. It sits too low, therfore, if you dont bleed the air out of the system when filling up, she gets a hot spot, and when the coolant finaly hits it.......CRACK !
There is a number of ways around this, the easiest, is to fit a modified top hose, that has a radiator cap. This way, you top up from there, and because it is the highest point in the cooling system, problem solved.
Chef Jay in Port Douglas
now i know that these engines are for lightweight cars but how would they go in a VT Commodore, as i was looking round to get a bit quicker without going V8 jus yet, because i am still on my p plates.
cheers
1-VR SII Exec Slammed - Written Off3-VT SII Berlina - Getting Classier
for the record rb stands for raciing bred
vt commodores are very heavy!
you would need an rb26dett just to get off the line.
your best bet is to trade your vt for a vs, or a vn.
put an rb30 hybrid in the vn,
or an rb25det or rb26dett in the vs....
remember a car needs an engine thats newer in it, not older. thus no rb30 in vs.
If you cant go V8, then you probably cant go turbo either.
Just save your cash and wait till your off your P's then get yourself what ever you want.
Chef Jay in Port Douglas
yea no turbo, yea that is what i thought but my mate keeps telling me how good these motors are, even as an N/A, but after reading all these i don't think it would be good for my wight, thanks for all the replies guys
1-VR SII Exec Slammed - Written Off3-VT SII Berlina - Getting Classier
wrong rb25 = 2.5l r33
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