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$5000 System in SV6 - Not Performing Well?!
Nut Kracker
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I was interested to see what exactly are wav files and I found this. Not knowing anything about them, I thought maybe it could be effecting the sound.
Just a thought....probably wrong.
Got this from Wikipedia. Maybe you could shed some light.
"Audio CDs do not use WAV as their sound format, using instead Red Book audio. The commonality is that both audio CDs and WAV files have the audio data encoded in PCM. WAV is a data file format for a computer to use that cannot be understood by CD players directly. To record WAV files to an Audio CD the file headers must be stripped and the remaining PCM data written directly to the disc as individual tracks with zero-padding added to match the CD's sector size. In order for a WAV file to be able to be burned to a CD with most burners it should be in the 44100 Hz, 16-bit stereo format."
sweefu
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Try a good quality CD and see if that sounds any different, as MAG00 suggested It could be due to a lack of tuning / processing available, all of those components are highly regarded as 'nice sounding'.
MAG00
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If it's still poor quality after using a good quality CD, take it back to the installer and ask him nicely to do a quick job for you to work out what's the issue.
He just needs any random headunit (that you don't need to buy), take it to the boot of the car, give it some +12V to the constant and accessories wire, run a remote wire from the headunit to the amps, and run a ground wire to the headunits ground wire. Should be easy seeing as the battery is in the VE boot.
You should now have a functioning, temporary headunit in the boot. Hook some RCAs up between the amps and the headunit.
Use the same good quality CD that you used earlier. If this sounds any better, you've isolated your issue to the headunit/line-out converter.
Edit: If it's any easier, the installer might just be able to feed the headunits constant/accessories wire into an amps positive terminals and the headunits ground wire into the negative terminal, as well as the remote wire into the remote terminal. Then it's just as simple as running a remote wire between the 2 amps (if there isn't one already) and plugging in the RCAs. Certainly dodgy, but good for a temporary troubleshooting session.
He just needs any random headunit (that you don't need to buy), take it to the boot of the car, give it some +12V to the constant and accessories wire, run a remote wire from the headunit to the amps, and run a ground wire to the headunits ground wire. Should be easy seeing as the battery is in the VE boot.
You should now have a functioning, temporary headunit in the boot. Hook some RCAs up between the amps and the headunit.
Use the same good quality CD that you used earlier. If this sounds any better, you've isolated your issue to the headunit/line-out converter.
Edit: If it's any easier, the installer might just be able to feed the headunits constant/accessories wire into an amps positive terminals and the headunits ground wire into the negative terminal, as well as the remote wire into the remote terminal. Then it's just as simple as running a remote wire between the 2 amps (if there isn't one already) and plugging in the RCAs. Certainly dodgy, but good for a temporary troubleshooting session.