Alloytec Timing Chains replacement

[Chaney]

Thought I'd sign in and do an update from my perspective and noticed a few replies etc, but where I am at now is:

Holden have no tensioners left in Australia basically, the left hand side (passenger side) is due into Melbourne on 23/03/11, and the right side is not due into Melb until 29/03/11. I was able to get the passenger side and primary tensioner before they went out of stock, but right now my car is garaged until I can get the right side. According to Eagers holden there is a back order of about 250+ tensioners across Australia which means 250+ VE's off the road until this part arrives in Australia. Apparently the tensioners are failing in hordes so anyone doing a change I recommend installing the revised parts (all 3 tensioners). I have replaced all chains, tensioners and guides to be safe.

Right now my car is my garage all timed up, but no RHS tensioner means I cant put the rest together until I get it. Worst thing is I can tell my VE has been opened up before (dodgy ie not factory bolts etc used, and BTW has only ever been serviced by holden through lease plan, before I purchased it). Seems like the timing chain was replaced before but now the tensioners have failed and my primary chain had slipped one tooth, no wonder it wouldn't start.

Thanks Vt for the info, I wish I would have had that info earlier but I have fumbled my way through the process (actually the service manual helped alot). I would probably leave the rocker cover gaskets out tho as the seem reusable and at approx $100 each is ridiculous. Unless there is a reason for replacing them?

Special tools need are the flywheel locking tool, power steering pulley puller and probably the pins to guide the front cover back on (i haven't got there yet but do have these)

The camshaft locking tool is definitely not needed as mentioned by Vt, I just rotated the engine by hand until it was all lined up, then took off chains and replaced without any problems.

Feel free to ask any other Q's also, for anyone else out there doing this job which shouldn't need doing.

Chaney.

 

[Chaney]

Hi Vn,

Just finished typing and saw your q's.

My spark plugs are still in, easy enough to turn over with them in. I have the special socket to turn the crank, but I have a feeling that you may be able to use the crankshaft bolt to do this - unconfirmed though. Flywheel needs to be locked so you can undo crank bolt, and redo at the correct torque.

I also cheated a bit by not removing the lower intake manifold and just loosened the oil filter bolts enough that I could get the LHS rocker cover off the engine. Will leak a bit of oil though.

 

[vt_on_20s]

chaney, the lower intake mani is only 2 x 13mm bolts more and a fuel line. prob easier to take out but each to there own.

Yes, crank shaft balancer bolt can be used to rotate the crank.

yes, perfectly fine to reuse rocker cover gaskets. im used to doing them under warranty and doing everything.

flywheel locking tool is in my opinion a way harder process to crack the bolt. there are bolt cracking tools or compressors to hire/borrow off a mate, with a rattle gun. (sorry never not had a gun handy)

OK, VN4250 in answer to your questions. NO - the plugs dont need to be removed. NO - a breaker bar is not enough to crack the bolt. i strongly advise just borrowing your mates compressor. YES - you can turn the crankshaft, using the balancer bolt.. although you should only have to turn it approx 1/4 turn to line up the secong mark.

please ask any other questions if need be.

PS. i have never ever! needed to remove the powersteering pulley. the pump and bracket come off seperately, one after the other but never does the pully need to be seperated from the pump. so no tool needed there.

also the alligning pins someone mentioned about for putting the timing cover back on.. never even heard of this. the cover goes on very easily and has its own dals that line it up perfectly as it is a flush fit. this will be the least of your worries and im confident you will have no trouble putting the cover back on.

 

[Chaney]

hmmm maybe I didn't need to remove the power steering pulley, but it seemed like the only way to get at the bolts behind it, oh well.

I think the flywheel balancer pulley may have been revised in later models eg have a key for position etc. Mine is Aug 06 so one of the first VE's, and doesn't have a key slot, just pressed on very tight. I was able to get it off with a breaker bar tho with a bit of effort.

 

[vn4250]

finally was able to remove the front timing cover. i received my flywheel locking tool today in the post from the USA and it works great. used a breaker bar to get the balancer bolt off no problems. now that i'm short on time cos' i gotta return to work this work, its gonna take longer to complete this job. can't wait to get those chains out.

 

[Sabbath']

chaney, the lower intake mani is only 2 x 13mm bolts more and a fuel line. prob easier to take out but each to there own.

And getting it back on with the lower intake manifold in place is a pain for 2 bolts and a fuel line. Means another gasket possibly.

 

[Chaney]

Hi Vt,

I have everything back together and resulted in a no start, has fuel and spark is it nearly started a couple of times. Compression test is getting 70-100 PSI on both banks. sh*t. Two of us triple checked the timing so I dont think its that, but either way everything is coming apart again. My question is, are these an interference engine? I have found several comments on the net, some saying they are & some saying they aren't. The photos I've seen have indents in the piston to allow valve clearance but I really dont know. Have you seen any/much valve damage to these things? Next stage the heads might have to come off.....

BTW found how to move the p/steer pulley out of the way, didn't seem to want to budge without those 2 bolts the first time but yeah got it figured now.

Cheers - glad your involved in this thread!

 

[Sabbath']

You sure the timing was exact and not a tooth out?

 

[Chaney]

checked and checked it, but gonna have to open it up again and see anyway. I rotated it by hand a fair bit to try and get all the marks to line up again but it must be a lot of revolutions before that happens again. In hindsight I should have rotated it a few revs, then in reverse the same amount. Let you know how i go tomorrow.

 

[vn4250]

i got the chains off tonight and measured them...

left & right old chains were equal length, then compare them with the new chains and no difference in length.
centre old chain compared with centre new chain result is the older chain is 4 millimetres longer (stretched).

now its time to put the new chains in... question: does left & right chains both need to be same tension when fitted?
now