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Alloytech coolant?

Discussion in 'VZ Holden Commodore (2004 - 2006)' started by crewzincool, Jun 1, 2008.

  1. crewzincool

    crewzincool New Member

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    Just was wondering , what the best coolant would be for the alloytech ..and is there anything you need to know when changing it on a sv6,apart from the obvious things like running the engine with the heater on ...thanks
     
  2. Benboy

    Benboy Active Member

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    If you check your Owner's Handbook Section 8-2 (Specifications) it states:

    "Coolant Specification 50% clean fresh water 50% extended life anti freeze coolant, conforming to specification number GM 6277M."

    Holden recommend changing coolant every 60 months (5 years) regardless of km travelled.

    I currently use NULON 'Red' Concentrated Long Life Coolant which (according to the label) lasts 5 years or 250,000 km. It DOES conform to GM6277M standards, it is Australian made and contains NO Silicate, Borate, Phosphate, Nitrite or Amine.
    With the Alloytec you MUST use a coolant that conforms to GM standards otherwise you run the very real risk of major damage to Alloy components of your engine.

    I always use Distilled Water (not very expensive for 5 litres) if/when replacing coolant. As per instructions 50% water and 50% coolant = 10 litres the cooling system capacity.

    If you are not familiar with the procedure then I suggest you go to a workshop (I prefer to go to a radiator/engine cooling specialist as they can do a complete check of your system at the same time) where they have the appropriate pump system that will completely flush your engine. They then use required amounts of water and coolant and they are pumped into the system. Eliminates air pockets (can cause 'hot-spots' and overtheating). There's no reason why you couldn't buy your own bottles of water and coolant and provide them to the 'garage' - it would propbably help to keep costs down. Also pays to have your system pressure tested at the same time.
     
  3. VZ05

    VZ05 New Member

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    Hey mate, I changed the Coolant on my VZ and used the genuine stuff (part no. 92145527) should cost you a bit under $40 if the spare part dude looks after you and gives you trade, supposed to be really good and says that you don't need demineralised water and the reckon the coolant is good enough although I used demineralised water.
    It's a pretty easy job to flush and refill.
    I was going to change the thermostat on mine but they have placed the thermostat at the back of the motor and is about $110 for the part and they reckon you need to just about pull the transmission out to get to it, so I didn't bother!

    There is no tap on the resivour so you will have to syphon it out.

    Also ensure that you bleed the air out of the system it's located on the top RHS of the radiator.

    Plus I replaced the radiator cap on mine which is about $13- make sure you have your engine number or rego as they have a couple of different types?
     
  4. crewzincool

    crewzincool New Member

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    cool thank guys...might give it a go myself...thanks for the tip on bleeding it...i thought there might be something like that that had to be done..
     
  5. jav360

    jav360 New Member

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    IT is best to use the genuine "red" long life coolant, have seen cases where owners have used a cheapo green coolant and it has mixed with the old coolant and turned it into alomost a jelly like substance.
     

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