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Broken wheel nut

D_BLOCK

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Ok so im changin break pads out today and low and behold one of the lugs wants to be a prick and snap, never mind its still got my mag wheel lock on it.

So do I take the calliper off , smash the hub with a mallet then hit the stud from the outside in or is it a screwed length thread totally from the outside?

cheers guys.
 

1989mitty

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Ok so im changin break pads out today and low and behold one of the lugs wants to be a prick and snap, never mind its still got my mag wheel lock on it.

So do I take the calliper off , smash the hub with a mallet then hit the stud from the outside in or is it a screwed length thread totally from the outside?

cheers guys.

Dont understand what your trying to do mate?
if your trying to remove the old stud yeah take the caliper off and the old thread should just screw out and a new one go in.
 

D_BLOCK

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Dont understand what your trying to do mate?
if your trying to remove the old stud yeah take the caliper off and the old thread should just screw out and a new one go in.

Pretty simple really,
im trying to remove the left over stud thats snapped in the hub, is it def a screw type stud or is it pressed ?
 

kblume

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Pretty simple really,
im trying to remove the left over stud thats snapped in the hub, is it def a screw type stud or is it pressed ?

They are just pressed in, just smash it out.. :)
 

D_BLOCK

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Thanks mate, appreciated.
Do you reckon I can rock up to supercheap etc.. for studs? or have to order one through a tire fitment place.


Cheers.
 

Benboy

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Makr absolutely sure that you get the correct type stud (high tensile). It is also a good idea to replace all of the others on the same wheel as the one that broke has probably been over-tightened and it's 'odds on' that the others have probably been subjected to the same abuse. In fact if it was me, I would replace ALL wheel studs - cheap insurance. Always tighten wheel nuts with a torque wrench. The required torque for a Commodore is 110 NM
 

D_BLOCK

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Thanks for the help guys.
Yeah supercheap dont stock them anymore but good ol bursons does, bout $6 each so I got the last 4 they had in.
Good point about swapping out the rest, I might order some more in and make a day of it next week. You should have seen the factory wheel brace, all the inside edges were round out, talk about paranoid eh must have been 1000lbs of torque on the stud.
The other prick part was the snapped stud had my lock nut on it so i got another lock nut set, oh well had to be done.

Anyone know if we have a "how to" on this ? If not i'll take some pics when I change out the next lot.
 

Torquative

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I had to replace mine late last year, 10 bucks each from Holden so 50 bucks a wheel.

As far as Im aware theres no how too. I had to take the hub off when I did my fronts, I dont know if you found a different way to do it?

Also Bursons is good for stuff like that, then undo themselves by charging $50 for a auto trans service kit that Repco across the road has for $30 and Holden have for $25 :banstick:
 

D_BLOCK

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I had to replace mine late last year, 10 bucks each from Holden so 50 bucks a wheel.

As far as Im aware theres no how too. I had to take the hub off when I did my fronts, I dont know if you found a different way to do it?

Also Bursons is good for stuff like that, then undo themselves by charging $50 for a auto trans service kit that Repco across the road has for $30 and Holden have for $25 :banstick:


yeah I had to take the hub off too, took a few swings on the hammer, some CRC and some back n fords rocking before it would budge though.

Holden can be like Bursons,for instance I just got bosch leads for $130 and bendix pads front and rear for $64 a set. Now Holden wanted $61 a lead and $300 for the pads??

So they are expensive on common stuff but cheap on specialty items, go figure eh.
 
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