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Do i have a bad hall senser ??

lars04

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Hey guys just seeing if anyone could help me out, just got a VR stato 304 and the bugger turns over but won't start I'll list what is good and not good.
1. Has good compression
2. Has good spark
3. Has fuel getting to the rails
4. Has NO pulse at injectors?
5. Won't even kick over with start ya bastard
Could this be a bad hall effect sensor?
Thanks for your help in advance.
 

BlackVXGTS

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You may well have a Hall Effect Sensor problem but the first question which should be asked is what symptoms were experienced between the time it was working OK and the time that it now won't start. Also, what changes (if any) were made during this period? What is happening to the security light - is it turning off - do you have a working remote? Have you tried displaying any error codes? Refer to the link below and post up any codes that have been set.

How did you determine that it has good spark? Refer to the note below from the Holden VS Service Manual:

"NOTE: Use ST 125 spark checker or equivalent. An ST 125 requires about 25,000 volts (25 kilovolts, or 25 kV) to "spark". Do not use a spark plug in open air earthed to the engine as an indication of sufficient "spark". Only a few kilovolts are required to jump the gap of a spark plug outside of the engine, and that would be an inadequate test of the ignition coil output ability."

http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/checking-error-codes-vr-vs-revised.22307/
 

lars04

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You may well have a Hall Effect Sensor problem but the first question which should be asked is what symptoms were experienced between the time it was working OK and the time that it now won't start. Also, what changes (if any) were made during this period? What is happening to the security light - is it turning off - do you have a working remote? Have you tried displaying any error codes? Refer to the link below and post up any codes that have been set.

How did you determine that it has good spark? Refer to the note below from the Holden VS Service Manual:

"NOTE: Use ST 125 spark checker or equivalent. An ST 125 requires about 25,000 volts (25 kilovolts, or 25 kV) to "spark". Do not use a spark plug in open air earthed to the engine as an indication of sufficient "spark". Only a few kilovolts are required to jump the gap of a spark plug outside of the engine, and that would be an inadequate test of the ignition coil output ability."

http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/checking-error-codes-vr-vs-revised.22307/
Cheers for getting back to me, so I recently just got it off a good mate for a great price the car was running fine when he got it, he had it for sale and alot of people were coming to check it out he was starting and stopping it constantly during the day and all of a sudden it wouldn't start. I'm only going by what the raa mechanic said about good spark and also I hadn't had a chance to hook a computer up to it.
 

lars04

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I also checked out a few videos of hooking a multi meter up to the plug on the dizzy I tried that and I'm getting no readings what so ever
 

lars04

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All good found it and it flashes once then twice by what I've read that means 12 which means it's meant to be all good Yea?
 

BlackVXGTS

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It will flash "12" three times, after which it will flash any error codes, also three times. After all the error codes have been displayed, you will get another series of three "12"s. So, if no error codes have been stored, you will get six "12"s.
 

lars04

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It will flash "12" three times, after which it will flash any error codes, also three times. After all the error codes have been displayed, you will get another series of three "12"s. So, if no error codes have been stored, you will get six "12"s.
Just went to double check and got all "12"s
 

BlackVXGTS

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Well, the most common reasons for V8 Holden-engined Commodores not starting are ignition module, coil, and Hall Effect Sensor. The ignition module is the easiest to test/replace if you can get hold of another one or get a lend of one. Reconditioned versions can be obtained for around $100. Coils are relatively cheap but a bit of a bugger to replace. Hall Effect Sensor is the worst as you need to remove the distributor and either replace the HES or install a new distributor, and then replace the leads, adjust the timing and so on. Personally I would start with the ignition module as they are quick/easy to fit and you might be able to get a working used one cheap.
 
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