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HOLDEN COMMODORE VE 2010 3.0L SIDI CHECK ENGINE LIGHT

Discussion in 'VE Holden Commodore (2006 - 2013)' started by datatech, Mar 16, 2017.

  1. datatech

    datatech New Member

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    Last month I bought a 2010 Omega lf1 3.0l sidi. 139.000 KM lately I have been getting an intermittent 'Check Engine' fault and also a 'Stability Control' fault. The Stability Control' fault, however, is more frequent. It would usually come on if we started driving after'status check' was completed but the car not warmed up I'm not aware if its a bad thing to start driving the car before worming up the engine as I'm 1st time and may be last time Holden owner ??

    Occasionally whilst stopped at lights the car will 'feel' like it drops a cylinder and the car sets up a wobble, but after 10 seconds or so seems to right itself. Sometimes we will know if the check stability control fault is about to come on as the car starts funny and wobbles around when starting from cold or at lights.

    there is codes in the system po171 po174 po151. some time as will reading about cyl misfire at cyl 1/3/5 as i do have scanner and can read the fault cods.

    I did change all oils (engine/transmutation/power steering/brake fluid) as will as all filters (air/oil/cabin) petrol can not rich as it is inside the tank but i did add all sys fule cleaner and lifter free anf engine oil flush before changing the engine oil and did change spark plugs correct type and cleaned MAF and all PVC hoses and i did bay 4 new o2 sensors and will change them all at the week end as fault po151 relate to o2 sensore circuit low voltage bank 2 sensor 1 less than 0.800.

    Problem is I only use 98. We hadn't been running E10 anyway and was usually running 98. We don't know what the previous owner used though. Quite possibly he ran any thing..I just dunno.

    I am hoping that this version of events is ringing a bell with someone that has had a similar problem and got it sorted. What should we be looking for? i notice from the posts that may be case o carbon buildup as this cars have history of it but in this stage how can that be solved?

    Much appreciate any assistance.
     
  2. Dynamic Dazz

    Dynamic Dazz Member

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    Hopefully nothing too serious.....my VE 2012 3.0 sidi LFW did a timing chain at 160k and 170k the engine completly seized requiring a new engine (VF 2016)
    Car was always serviced too at every 10,000km.......new engine I'm using full synthetic oil and changing every 5,000km

    Dazz
     
  3. MYVESSV8

    MYVESSV8 Well-Known Member

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    battery dying
     
  4. mr_s

    mr_s Member

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    Hey OP, does your problem happen if the car idles or is it just at the lights/being driven?

    If the manual says use 98, then you better stick to that. Risking E10 to save a few $$ at the pump is a bad idea, as it may be $$$$$ later down the track.
    I would use up all that petrol quick and then revert back to 98.

    Also, grab a voltimeter and check the output of the battery. as MySSVE said, it might be on it's last legs.

    Regarding stability, are you getting a constant error (meaning every time you start the car)?

    If so, when you get a chance, do a few doghies/fishies; that generally fixed mine (still have no fkn idea how tho).
    If it's still a problem, get to a mech and check the cokes
     
  5. h8tensv6

    h8tensv6 Member

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    Datatech my wife's MY10 3.0 litre omega would do the shuddering thing like it dropped a cylinder sometimes when sitting at the traffic lights. We never got any codes to say anything was wrong. I asked the guys at Holden last time it was in for a service and they told me all the 3.0 litre engines do it from time to time and to live with it. Not a very good response from them as I expected as much. Ours doesn't do it all the time just one time every few months or so. It seemed to be worse when my wife was only driving 3 km to work each day. Since we have been using 98 fuel in it and we take it for a run on the freeway at 110kph every now and then it hasn't done it for 6 months or more.
     
  6. MYVESSV8

    MYVESSV8 Well-Known Member

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    3klm is not enough of a run to warm up let alone recharge what you have taken out of the battery on start up, decent run will help, as for warming it up I start mine reverse out of driveway normally, and take off down the street, within 3 minutes car has started warming up so no real need to warm up in driveway etc, just don't fang it from the start give a few minutes of normal driving, min rec fuel is 91RON, MOST e10 are above that, there is a known is with the rear loom for wheel sensors, $60 from holdens easy diy,
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2017

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